So today we planned to remove the shock on my SM610 in order to change the spring out for a lighter one. We got the service manual and followed the instructions: removed seat, side panels, exhaust (back 2/3's), and unbolted shock. That's as far as we got. We could not find a way to get the shock out. I called one dealer that suggested removing the swingarm, and another dealer that said to remove or at least tilt the subframe. We didn't have time to get that involved, and weren't sure which direction to proceed. I read the thread in "common topics" about being able to remove the shock right through the bottom of the swingarm, but I assume that doesn't apply to the 610. I'm sure some of you have removed the shock from your 610 at some point. Could you please enlighten me?
On my TE, it seems like I tilted the subframe and went out the top. If you remove the swing arm, I think it could go out the bottom. Which ever way seems like more fun, I guess.
I pulled the swingarm and linkage. There are a few biggish bolts and some decent torque on them. Think of it as a chance to make sure those bearings are nicely greased. It also means you don't have to pull the exhaust. No matter what, it's an awkward and tight fit getting the reservoir side in and out.
The whole rear frame can tilt up some, more if you yank the bolt that it rotates on. Take the bolts out of the rear brake reservoir to allow it some freedom of movement, and the bolts that hold the legs of the rear frame to the main frame. Then pull the shock up and out towards the kickstand side. Attach the bottom part of the shock on install first before the top. PIA little job The lighter spring is great on the road I got the springs, fork and shock, from Kelly. This guy is a superb businessman.
What spring did you end up going for? I've got an SM610 and recently tried to set my sag according to the manual. It states that it should be 89mm difference in ride height with and without rider. I couldn't get that figure any higher than about 65mm - any more and there was no load on the shock at all!
The spring I have is a 5.4. I haven't installed it yet. Hall's actually recommended a 5.8 for me, but I'm not an aggressive rider, so I'm thinking the 5.4 may work. The spring is just on loan to me to see if I like it. If I keep it, then I have to buy it. I haven't got it installed yet. It' such a job to change the spring, that I'm not sure I'll want to do it more than once, so I hope it works.
Thanks for replying - if I'm not being too personal how much do you weigh? I'd be interested to gauge if the standard spring is right for me (about 170lbs). Am I right in thinking the OE spring is a 6.4? Does a replacement cost much? I guess if the only option is a genuine husky item then the answer is yes I would do as Knary says while you have the whole thing apart. Make sure you grease the swingarm bearings and rising rate linkage thoroughly. These bikes used to (still might do?) have a reputation for being dry in these areas (and head races) from new. The reason being something to do with grease escaping during shipping if the rumour mill is to be believed . (Or deliberately not putting much on in case it did!) Be careful though - the rising rate linkage needle rollers aren't caged so aren't captive and once its apart they start dropping out!. Easy enough to put back in position with a smear of grease though.....
I believe the stock spring is a 6.8 on the SM610. Mine has a sticker on the spring, and unless my memory is slipping, I'm pretty sure it was 6.8. I weigh 105lbs. without gear. I've been told by a couple of people that the stock spring is about right for a 220lb. rider. A new spring is $99. The one I have is used, so about 1/2 the price. I am leaning towards the sub-frame method rather than the swingarm method at this point. I'm going to have a mechanic do my first valve check, and since he'll have the tank off, I may give him the spring and have him put it on at the same time.
Stock is 6.4. I recently pulled my rear shock out. I had to pull out the bolt that connects the top of the subframe to the engine frame. Loosening it wasn't enough because the subframe can't be tilted up - there are limiting studs where the two frames mate. I anticipated my needle bearings to be dry but all my swingarm bearings were nicely greased.
The practical way on my 610 was to unbolt the swingarm and slide it out a little. This was a good thing as I gave a good chance to grease the bearings on the lower linkage stuff and swingarm. On my bike you could have tilted the subframe up, but it would have involved streching wires and all sort of hoopla.
