630 (610?) Shifter Adjustment?

Discussion in '610/630' started by jtemple, Jul 31, 2010.

  1. jtemple Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Papillion, NE
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2011 TE630
    Other Motorcycles:
    2013 Kawasaki ZX-14R
    Are there any tricks to getting to the retaining bolt on the shifter lever? I need to adjust my lever down and the bolt looks dang near impossible to get at.
  2. Stroker Ace Husqvarna
    AA Class

    I use the box end of a 10mm wrench upside down. You can't get a good hold with the open end. Take off the plastic sprocket cover at least. Believe it or not, the best way is to drop the chain out of the way, then it's no problem at all, and a good time to clean and lube the chain too. Have fun....
  3. jerbear610 Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Sacramento,CA
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    14' WR300, 11' TE511, 06'TE610 sold
    Other Motorcycles:
    11' Husaberg FE570, 15' Beta 300RR
    +1 If it's anything like the 610 then removing the chain makes it much easier.
  4. mlyamkaw Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Wenatchee, WA
    +2 The 630 must be the same. Take the chain off and you can get at it. Kind of a bad access method.
  5. jtemple Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Papillion, NE
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2011 TE630
    Other Motorcycles:
    2013 Kawasaki ZX-14R
    I got the clip off of the master link, but I can't get the link separated. Ugh.
  6. jtemple Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Papillion, NE
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2011 TE630
    Other Motorcycles:
    2013 Kawasaki ZX-14R
    got it done. Wrapped the link around the rear sprocket and tapped the pins with a 1/4" drive extension (I need to get a punch). Afterward, I pressed the link back together with a giant pair of channel locks (again, lacking the right tool for the job).
  7. Stroker Ace Husqvarna
    AA Class

    George uses 2 6mm nuts and a small pair of vice grips to push the plate on, some guys use the nuts and small "C" clamp, the way you did it works too. I personally for the last 30yrs put mine on with my fingers after I drill the damn thing out (the proper size) then if I need to deal with it on the trail.... well..... easy as pie. In case you're wondering... in 30yrs., never a problem with that method. In the old days master links came with the plates a push fit. Man I hope I didn't start a big controversy ! But I would like to know what the best chain lube is.....LOL....LOL.....

    Happy Trails.......
  8. jerbear610 Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Sacramento,CA
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    14' WR300, 11' TE511, 06'TE610 sold
    Other Motorcycles:
    11' Husaberg FE570, 15' Beta 300RR
    I've used everything from Belray to PJ1, Chainwax, Honda's chainlube etc...
    Lately I've been just using WD40. At least it doesn't gunk up around the
    c/s sprocket.
  9. somesuch Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Santa Clara CA
    make sure the shifter does not hit the frame rail underneath on a downshift...on my '00 610, I could not move the shifter from stock location without having it hit the frame rail....

    I used a 10mm box end wrench, cover off, chain still on, but took the lower roller off.