Here;s what i have done to my airbox to stop the inserts spinning,water getting in,boot falling off and breather falling out. First the inserts,i've had 2 airboxes fail. 6 6mm by 25mm socket heads 6 ss dome nuts or 6 flange nuts Next up the boot I used sender safe silcon between the boot and airbox.Also coated the clamp once done up and in position. It is now very easy to get the airbox on and off Now the drain hole on the airbox. This may be debatable .I prefer to have the low point not be able to suck water in .Most of my old jap bikes had a hose with a set up for drain not a open hole. 1 10mm elbow. 1 reusable zip tie 10mm hose Cut off the end In place Hose and tie Breather mod.I did have the zip tie but have now gone to a R clip Thanks to poppy on adv for the info on the boot and R clip mod
Take a look at this link (tons of goodies): http://www.htmracing.it/cms/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=190&Itemid=182 Of interest to our subject could be this part (automatically translated from Italian using 'Google Translate'): Engine oil breather kit. This accessory allows you to finally delete the connection of oil vapor with the engine intake. This connection, present on all 4-stroke engine, is imposed by the regulations for environmental reasons but is absolutely counterproductive to the sports use of the medium: the vapors of oil smear intake manifold, carburetors, injectors and valves; also during combustion are created of the incrustations in the combustion chamber, on the piston and in the exhaust pipes. The kit is designed to remove the duct that carries the vapors oil all'spirazione, sealing the connection to the filter box, and apply to the air intake, generally placed on the head of the engine, a tube with an air intake free but protected by a polyurethane foam filter. Adopting the kit you can have performance benefits over the medium term thanks to a cleaner engine and less prone to fouling, for the same reason it will benefit the reliability and durability of all components of the thermal. The filtered air intake is made of high quality Alu 7075 T6, the kit is supplied as picture tube resistant to oils and high temperatures, these shall also be a cap and a sleeve made of technopolymer. I hope it helps.
Be careful with the R-clip. They can pop off. I had one go through the turbo (and engine) of my truck. A regular cotter pin would be safer. Cam.
I like your idea on the modifications to the air box cover fasteners. Can you share some more details on exactly what you did when you get a chance.
I screwed the socket/allen head bolts in thru the back of the inserts so they are snug.This creates a stud instead of the threaded insert .Place the airbox cover on and re use the washers that come with it and a nut,either flange or dome, to hold the cover instead of the standard bolts.If for some reason the inserts spins you can grab the allen head to hold it and undo nut.Although it is less likely to spin now it is a stud.You could aradite the allen bolts head to the plastic of the airbox,but i don't think it will be necessary . Here it is buttoned up with a combination of flange nuts and dome nuts
