79 390 CR start up after restore (timing ?)

My fellow Husky friends
Got the bike back together after restore (okay maybe restore is pushing it) put oil in tranny, fuel in tank and kicked it over about 15 times. Bike only showed signs of life, by loud and snappy backfire. Before losing my leg (thankfully it never did kickback) I scratch my head and review basics. We got a good hot spark, kill switch works, carb bowl is full, and review my method of setting timing. So I ask for you friends to review my method of setting time.

1. mount stator loosely (not sloppy, just loose)
2. slide flywheel on, roll motor, and find approximate TDC
3. mark flywheel location, pull flywheel and get stator rotated close
4. Install dial indicator in spark plug hole (verify mm on scale)
5. tap flywheel back on crank.
6. Roll motor and verify TDC and zero dial indicator at TDC.
7. Roll motor a few degrees back and forth until wire rod timing tool inserted into flywheel can pick up matching locating hole in stator.
8. Once wire tool is inserted, roll motor back from zero about 2.5 mm, then roll forward slightly until 2.18mm BTDC.
9. Attempt to remove flywheel without disturbing stator position.
10 Tighten stator into position
11 Install and torque flywheel.

Pictures of my flywheel and stator provided (all pics taken at very near TDC). Any thoughts would be appreciated. I have confidence in carb jetting, air screws and settings set at nominal factory, Idle screw (throttle slide mechanical stop) was badly abused so I re-profiled the taper. I would think that even if my throttle stop was backed out too far I could still start the bike by just barely cracking the throttle or by use of the choke. I'm sure it's not perfect, but I'm just looking for signs of life and will adjust once warmed up and running. Thanks, Scott Adams

I think I just discovered the problem with my sons 79 390CR.
I pulled the pipe off to fit my dial indicator to double check the timing and maybe retard it a bit, to try and get it to start easier.
When I pulled the pipe I found raw fuel in the pipe. My first thought was possibly the needle and seat is leaking.
To check the needle and seat I put the carb in a vise to positioned it like it is on the bike and then with a small funnel and a piece of fuel line I filled the carb.
Within a minute or two I had a constant drip out the front of the carb.
Now I would have sworn the floats were set correctly, but when I pulled the bowl off, they were obviously set to high and not closing the needle and seat.
I re-adjusted the floats and mocked it up again, not a drop out the front.
The bike would start and run the way it was, but only when my son kicked it like a rabbit. I could never kick that way.
I'm waiting on a set of Boyesen reeds for it right now and should have it back together by the weekend,
I be sure to let everyone know how it starts.
Ron

Thanks John & Ron
I sincerely appreciate your comments. Actually I was hoping my method of setting time was bad and people would educate me. I plan on pulling the pipe, mounting dial indicator and aligning the timing holes and make sure the indicator says what it should. While doing so I will look into the pipe for gas, but I don't expect to find anything. Ron, I did not get need reeds, closely inspected these and they were nice and flat, so proceeded to lightly surface grind the mounting surfaces on ground plate to ensure flatness and good seal. So i will do these check and start kicking like its a Harley. I'm reluctant in bumping this big boy in my yard, as there is not enough room in the event something goes as not expected or I may have overlooked something. I was not so concerned when bumping my previous resto but it was a 125. It would not kick start after complete tear down either, but after initial start, it kicks easily. Thanks again guys, wish me luck. Scott Adams

The only thing I can add is that when kicking a husky you do have to spin it very quickly to generate a good spark......good luck

I got it running, I think is just wanted fuel, more than enough to just fart out the pipe. I have to say to get it started I did use ruwfo method, maybe a a fluke maybe not. Crazy thing today, to get it started again I cranked and cranked. While just pushing through the stroke to get a full kick, it fires. My daughter could have kicked that hard. Will update soon. Scott

I thought I would mention this here because it seems to fit. In 1977 while still in high school a friend asked me to work on his 1972 Yamaha AT2. It came over to my house with the aircleaner in a box with several other assorted parts . His problem was that the bike would start well but only run at idle. When opening throttle above idle it would stall out. I cleaned, the carb,checked the points and timing and nothing changed. I told him I could not find a reason for the engine not to run well. He offered it to me for $5. After I let it sit for a few days I decided to clean the airfilter and put it on the bike to protect the carb. On a whim I kicked it, it started, and would rev to the moon. My point is the 1972 Yamaha Enduros had first year reed valves and the airfilter was not connected when it would not run above idle. Is it possible for that to be a problem on reed valve engines?

I know this thread last posted to some time ago, but how did you get on with the Boyesen reeds, Scott? Did you need to do any re-jetting of the carb?

Cheers

Craig

Once my son starts my refreshed bikes and there all jetted and adjusted I pop start them where we ride. I pop them in second gear with the choke on. As she fires up I put it in neutral and put the choke off as she warms up.
I can't kick start. Always use second gear. They won't start in first, the back wheel locks up.

Craig, not sure I understand your question. I didn't install Boyesen reeds, at least I don't recall doing so.

Worn reeds can add to a hard start. I replaced mine with Boyesen and didn't need to change jetting. I also
prefer NGK Iridium plugs (BR8EIX). They resist fouling and don't require such a strong spark. Be sure float
bowl is correct along with correct idle jet size. I have a 1978 OR 390 and 80 CR 390. Great bikes!

I used a broken zip tie in the plug hole aligned with a mark one eyeball. fires up at the drop of a hat...

I scribe a line from the stator bracket to the case before I tear the engine down. If it's a basket case I have marked the flywheel when the piston stops moving in one direction. Then I move it the opposite direction and mark a line when it stops coming up. Halfway between the lines is exactly TDC. Now the specs is I think 1.5mm/2mm BTDC for the static setting.( before top dead center) that's the distance from the top of the cylinder to the top of the piston as the piston comes up towards TDC.

Someone said the resistor spark plugs aren't recomended for some husky ignitions.

Yes, the R spooks some folks. The B8EG works well too.