"88 400WRLC with loose rear case sleeves

Interesting, I probably should sit the cases in the frame and bolt the front mounts to measure? Or would that not be accurate enough?

I would be cautious about accepting those measurement as the dimension from the case split surface to the face of the installed sleeve is set by the factory.

I have recorded the results from my 82 250WR engine that I did those measurement on. I will post them here when I get a chance.

Just make sure the rear wheel is straight measuring off the swing arm bolt & the sprockets are aligned as well.

I have one case that someone repaired with a epoxy it's rock solid.

Do you know what epoxy it is? There are several species of epoxies running from commercial aerospace. I would not try that with 5 minute or less epoxy.

I would be interested to know what the epoxy is too, don't mind paying for a quality product. I won't be using it on the right case half though, I think that's too much to ask of any epoxy!
Tony.

Certain industrial epoxies are more than capable. You will not find them in the local auto parts store. You would need to order from an industrial supplier.

Yes, I figured that would be the case. Any companies with either the product or the knowledge are few and far between here in southern New South Wales, Australia though.

Try searching for Belzona there are different types with aluminium and ferrous mixed in for different applications, use it the UK nuclear industry emergency repair kits.

As I put in post 14 I used 3M panel bond last time. I got it off ebay and make a plunger set up as pictured. It comes with mixing tips I did not use and there is a dedicated tool to push the stuff out. It is for automotive body work. The instructions do say to use some weld at the ends if I recall. Not everyone talking about auto body adhesives seems aware of this however this application has no ends to speak of. It was the choice of user Old husky chuck who has not been active to my knowledge for quite a while. He made the inserts out of oil light bronze or what I call bearing bronze that is kind of strange to machine as oil kind of comes out. I used steel and then hardened in caseite but not sure I would do that again. There are usually good inserts on the case half that cracks due to starter issues even if they can not be purchased at least from Halls any more.

I did buy a new set of 1987-1988 cases perhpas around the time Norm has mentioned Feracchi as a distributor wasn't cooperative getting the spare parts to the next distributor. If someone actually wants a measurement chances I can get an answer in a message. The mono shock engine does fit between frame plates and the dual shock one between the swingarm. Using a shim isn't the end of the world for some reason I had to use a shim when I put the 88 engine in the 99 four stroke frame either my repair wasn't correct across the back or there is a difference.

Sorry Fran, my mistake.
When you mentioned "3M panel bond" I envisaged what we call "liquid nails" here, an all purpose construction glue often used for timber panels among other things!
I have not heard of it either in an automotive panel repair sense, but it's logical that it could be used successfully. Thanks for that!

I have sourced a right hand crankcase from a 1987 430WR with a solid bushing, no magnesium rot or damage that I can determine, but I will need to be concious of possible differences in end float of both the transmission shafts and crankshaft and shim accordingly.
It just seemed logical to fork out $160 aud and be able to change it over myself, or go through the process of trusting a workshop to be competent enough to complete the job, without being charged bucket loads of cash in setup and machining time, only to be left with a possible short term fix. The left bushing is a bit loose though, so your advice won't go to waste.

Now, can anyone offer some end float dimensions I should aim for? I know it isn't recommended to mix and match crankcase halves but I am going to give it a go anyway in the hope that Husqvarna castings are going to be quite close. Wish me luck.
Tony.

Thanks husqyman, I did a search for Belzona and it seems it is quite difficult to obtain in small quantities (not to mention the cost) but it looks to be a great product for what I need, also the Belzona 1111 Super Metal appears to be a great option for rotted clutch covers and crankcases due to corrosion. I have found an Australian distributor so I'll give them a call.
Tony.

Ours comes in about 1lb tubs with the hardener, takes 12 hours for a proper cure but usable in about 4. Have seen it used to patch a broken cast iron pump body (ferrous version, about 250psi 110degC max pressure/temp) lasted about 8 months of continuous use, IE 24hrs a day.

I will provide the float dimensions but I have to get my notebook from work. I keep forgetting to bring it home and now I am in the middle of a 4 day weekend.

belzona is a very good stuff. an ol mate used to take open port 6 cylinder holden heads (copy of the chev blue flame) and glue aluminium dividers into the heads with Belzona to make them 12 port heads. he often fixed up enthusiastic porting boo boos with it. was great stuff

Thank you Jim, your help is appreciated.

Thanks for the feedback on Belzona JC, I think I'll use it on the left case, the right side case is just too flogged out in my opinion.

I work in the Marine industry. I have used Belzona to repair loose Bushings similar to these except they were 3" in diameter on a Crane. The repair lasted till we got to a Shipyard and could Weld and Machine the Job Correctly. I have also seen used it to repair Loose Cylinder Liners on large Diesel Engines. In this application it was applied to a worn out Block surface and then allowed to dry after which it was machined in place with a Boring bar. Yes, it can be machined just like Metal. Then the Liner was re installed and the Engine ran another 6 months until a new Engine was available. You might try a local machine shop, they might have a Dab of it they would be willing to give away.

imho "nothing" is too far gone for Belzona

If one was to put the filler and then machine the opening and then use a stock insert you end up with the void where the insert has a smaller diameter. I suspect this was done to keep the rate of case cracks down but I also think there was a design error here. If you are installing a stock insert with uncured epoxy or similar it can fill in completely but even with a vacuum designed installation technique there is a limit to how firm the uncured filler can be, at least it would seem. I have not repaired more than 3 of these and one I went from 14mm insert to 12mm insert (pivot rod diameter) and of course had to make my own insert for that.

If you know the filler is rated for sufficient temperature one will feel better. I have talked with flat track racers who use filler in rotax engines modifying passages around the valves.

I found this on fleabay, it appears to be ideal for my left crankcase situation, can anyone who knows the product offer any advice?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Belzona-...215829?hash=item280ac293d5:g:eYsAAOSwI-BWLTYp or this one....

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Belzona-Marine-Metal-/171979221702?hash=item280ac2aac6:g:9gwAAOSwYHxWLTfm