250-500cc 95 - 2010 WR 250 CDI wire colours

Hi,
I have an Australian spec wr 250,
It has a 4 pin CDI plug with an extra Yellow for lights, etc.
2 wires go into the CDI, 2 come out, (for coil +/-)
and it (the CDI) also has an extra white wire?

The one with the loop is the negative or earth to coil,
And the other the positive, or spark trigger wire.
The other 2 take the signal and power from the stator, and pick up, to the CDI.

But the CDI has an extra white wire coming out of it, What is this for?

Cheers

I would say white goes to the rec/reg also as alot of systems do this with the white when a battery is in the system.

Thanks for that,
Just when I thought it may be for the kill switch,
as some other CDI units have the extra wire to go to the kill switch.
It has spark without the White Wire hooked up... so can leave it for now

So I now need to find the kill switch wiring for 95 - 2010 WR (same CDI no.)
as it's a bit dangerous to not have one,

I just thought seeing as its only 6 wires total,
There is really no need for people to have to download manuals for the wiring,
If the wire colours and purpose is stated clearly somewhere.

Dark Blue = To CDI
Light Blue = To CDI
White/blue stripe =Coil +
Black/White Stripe =Coil - (Earth)

Yellow = Lights
White = ?????

Once this is finshed it should help out others too.

I'll try and check if is an earth for the reg, somehow soon. (could check if a positive comes out of it if i get it running, also see if it kills spark when earthed, if not may be reg. earth)
Cheers

My system is basically just an interruption to the CDI supply through an earth by the kill switch. I would be a little concerned about just earthing that wire. I'd continue to get the bike running then try an earthing wire via the CDI. If this gives you everything your after I'd leave it as is unless someone can enlighten you as to what the wire really is.

Yeah thanks for that.
The CDI is the same for 1995 - 2010 WR 250's.

I haven't earthed it, I have spark,
and am now thinking it may be the kill switch wire.

The Bike still won't start though.
I tried a start ya bastard and kicking it for ages,
Tried a new plug too.
Even tried swearing at it.

I will try push starting it today, but its a bit dodgy without a kill switch with an untried engine, and untested brakes carb settings etc.
It's a bit richer than normal to run it in, and the idle higher too,
I don't want to get stuck on a peaking out engine with no brakes, and no way to stop.


But thanks, I will leave the white wire for now.

Would be great if someone could take their seat and tank off to have a look,
Or had a manual with the wire colours handy.

Cheers

Tap a wire from your kill into the supply wire to your CDI. You then have an effective kill before trying to start.

Maybe run through these manuals. Electrical is usually down toward the botom.

http://husqvarnaoutlet.com/repair_manuals

Update,
It ran!, I push started it yesterday, it went ok,
First is gone, but all the other gears are OK.
Suprisingly 2nd feels easy to ride in slowly, better than 1st on some mates bikes.
Rode it for an Hour or 2, (stopping for 30 min or so heat cycles)
It still won't kick start,
and a Buddy fouled the plug trying to kick it today, so it wouldn't start when I tried to go for a ride.

Got home and the plug was black / oily as and clearly fouled.
I have a Keihin PWK running 55 pilot for run in,
I usually have a 45 pilot in it.

My spark plug gap was also way too big so gapped 3 of them tonight, so i have some spares.

It a bit wierd as it push started every time yesterday, over 5 times.

Not sure if i should drop the 45 pilot back in yet, it was a little smokey at idle, and the fouled plug sucked.
OH well will try again tomorrow.

Cheers

Hi,
The 45 pilot is in.
It kick started once, then I had to jump it,
Plug was still black/oily.
After a big ride it is nice and brown.

The Clutch drags really bad when cold, but is OK when Hot.
Anyone know which Honda clutch plates fit?

Do they drag less?

The Power valve was leaking so I checked it out, the bush had fallen off the Powervalve shaft,
I re installed it, and added another bush I had lying around, pressed in to stop it happening again.
I also had 2 bolts missing so got new ones.

The pipe started to leak from the head near the end of my ride,
as I am using the sleeve from a 92 into the later head to make my 92 pipe fit.
I will Ultra red it for the moment, but really should get the slip in pipe from a later WR.

Otherwise I will get the end of the pipe modded to suit.

Cheers

Hi,
The Clutch does not drag when the bike is running now.

I am worried about a clicking sound when I use the kick start,
When pushing the kick start lever quickly, with my hand, and the plug in,
It makes a clicking sound from the pipe / powervalve or powervalve gear area, around 1/4 of the way through the kick start stroke.
When we put our ear to the pipe, it sounded like it was an echo from n there somewhere.

I don't know what it is, but is is making me not kick start it to be safe, in case it is bad news.

Although I kicked it about 100 times yesterday with it making that same noise, It started twice,
But starts easy push starting it, when it doesn't lock up. (2nd)

It does not make the noise with the plug out, and turns freely and smoothly.

I may adjust the powervalve 1/2 a turn, on the stop, in so it is away from the piston / bore just in case,
and see if the sound persists.

When riding it runs well. A bit of coolant drips out the overflow as it heats up,
and it ends up being abut 2cm down from the cap after a good ride.
It may need a new cap as the rubber seal has seen better days.

Still need to sort that white CDI wire and a KILL SWITCH!
Has switch, need wiring diagram / colours. 95 - 2010.
Don't want to drop it and have it peak out with no way to stop it.

I guess I will pull the Clutch side outer case off when I drop the oil,
and double check the gears, water pump, bearings etc. and try and find where that clicking noise is coming from.
Will need a new compressor to rattle gun the clutch bolt off mine died.

Cheers