125-200cc A Year in the Life of a WR125...

After a full race season I went over the bike and have this rough run down to offer...in no particular order, just sort of rambling...I should have kept better track but this is what I can think of.

Frame - Still original, no cracks, dented underneath pretty major but still intact.

Suspension - reworked/revalved front and rear when new. Inspected and changed fluids mid-season. Replaced one bent lower linkage arm.

Rims, hubs, spokes - original - nothing major. Have to check spokes front and back after every ride, come loose, never seated. Changed out rim locks mid-season, changed wheel bearings mid-season. Probably didn't have to, bearings were that good I kept them as spares.

Brakes -3rd sets of pads, same front and rear rotors, changed brake fluid once - no leaks, calipers were never rebuilt. Removed and cleaned pads/spring clips/holder pins after every mud run. Replaced holder pins mid-season. Removed, inspected, cleaned, lubed front brake lever every couple of mud runs. Original rear brake lever

Handlebars - replaced stock with Renthals, kept same bar all year. One set of Cycra handguards all year - replaced allen screws in handguard clamps to stainless mid-season. Replace one stock handlebar clamp(bent).

Two clutch lever perches, can't remember how they broke.

Bearings - Greased all bearings in steering stem/suspension linkage when new. Changed steering stem bearings mid-season. Changed linkage bearings/seals mid-season, they needed it.

Original foot pegs - sharpened when needed with file, added puddle weld to piece that contacts frame to level them out after wearing.

Changed clutch/throttle cables mid-season. Slight fray on bottom of clutch cable, kept as spares.

Original shifter lever.

Original clutch from new. Maxima 80wt, changed every race. Oil bolt crush washer changed several times, 18 ft lbs and quit. No problems.

Jetting - do we really need to get into that. Had to replace carb boot clamps front and back...wore them out had the carb on and off so much. Have not touched the jetting in 6 races. Plugs look good- run it. Original reeds. Ran two vent hoses from carb into air box.

Ignition system - changed over to the '08 CR system beginning of year, no issues thru the year.

Pipes - crushed one stocker and one FMF

Silencer - Went thru three - broke the stocker this past weekend put on spare (welded/braced) FMF TC2 and have another cracked (welded/braced) TC2.

Motosportz Stabilizer - Installed when new, on the bike all year no issues.

Plastic - two lower fork guards, one rear and one front fender, three radiator shrouds and one number plate.

IMS tank - no issues (great plus - no gas stops in a 2 hour race) Had to take apart and clean lever style petcock once.

Radiators - Went thru 3 sets; either crushed or leaking at the welds at the spouts. Replaced plastic 'T with metal 'Y' in radiator hoses. Stock radiator hoses, replaced clamps mid-season. Morphed the hoses to fit two different style radiator bottoms..still on the bike.

Put homemade splash guard around front of air box.

Chain guide - BRP when new, wore thru it mid-season went with TM Design to finish the year.

Front suspension/axle - Loosened and reset forks and axle after every race.

Chains/sprockets - Supersprox rear with RK low friction x-ring chain. Two sets for year.

Bent the rear sub-frame - straightened it out with a digging bar. Stayed good all year.

Safety wired the brake pad pin keepers at the end so they could not come out. Safety wired the silencer pipe to the exhaust pipe over the rubber coupler so they could not come apart. Drilled and safety wired pivot bolt at bottom of rear slave cylinder.

Skid plate - Two original equipment ones. Beat up and melted the original. Bolted and then zip tied to frame as backup. Drilled 1-1/2'' hole for draining oil, 1/2'' hole by shifter to access lower engine bolt and notched it by the brake lever to access the lower engine bolt. Did not feel like pulling this once it was on.

Engine - Normal stuff - 2 pistons, 5 rings. One major rebuild due to overheating (lost radiator fluid, not the bikes fault) I think the Klotz R50 at 40:1 did an excellent job.

Three sets of head stays...kept cracking.

Anti-seize on all the bolt that didn't get Locktite.

M59/M404 Bridgestones, Ultra heavy duty tubes, mostly around 13psi front/11 rear, no flats all year.

Torque checked often on lower engine bolts/head stays, fork clamp bolts, linkage bolts,

Could take it apart and put back together blindfolded...

The boy really hammered this bike, kind-of 'take it or break it' thing...really one tough piece of equipment...as the mechanic I'm happy to say there were no real mechanical issues to take us out of a race, besides the ones that were rider induced! Sh*t happens...

WOW thats a bike parts report. Thanks for taking the time to do so. Sure reads like some tough racing and an even tougher bike and son.

What's the plan for next year? We all want to know as the future is bright.

Looks pretty darn tooten good! Andy definately has some talent! Them bikes are tough! Looks like, pretty good mechanic, as well. Hey did you run my RM needle/5.0 slide all year?

So how many races did the bike do? Happen to have an hour meter on the bike?

Darin, I did...mid-year the jetting just seemed to work at all locations. I'll post my final jetting specs... written down at the house.

df...Hour Meter...I did, but it quit working...just changed things on a per race basis.

Since March; 16 races, 2 hours+ each.

other than fluid and valving, any issues with the rear shock? Also, as for the radiators, i had a friend weld all the spouts on my CR. Just laid a heavy tig bead all the way around, i recently dented the pipe with the hose/spigot and no leakage, course moving em in like it sounds like it sounds like you did would be nice as well. Take a look at the 2001 CR lower hose, i think it would work for swapped spouts on our bikes, and its one peice.

As far as performance really no issues with the shock. Nothing busted/leaking... had to adjust the sag a little...he actually gained a 'little' weight and the spring most likely settled a little. Went with just a little less than recommended when clean to account for the mud races. Eyelet bearings/bushings need to be kept after.

Good move on being proactive with the spout welds...would have saved me alot of grief; I missed that move! The seams seem pressed together, not really any weld there from new.

I'm not sure if you caught my post about our morphed lower hose. The left rad has the outbound spout and the right(pipe side) has the inbound spout. PEX plumbing parts...too funny.

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/i-think-we-toasted-one.18988/page-2

This setup has been on the bike for a while. But I will look at the '01 hose. I'm going to get my collection of busted rads repaired, put a good set on the bike and sell the rest.

Great! So, was paktm, then pahusky. I think you might have to change it to pagncc1.

The '01 hose is a direct fit if you move both ports to the inside. If you still have the outside port on the left radiator, you'll need to cut and splice the hose to reach.

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/bad-design.20122/#post-184387

When Tasky's ordered the hose for me he said there were only 2 left.