Adding a brake light to a 77 WR250 w/Femsa ?

This seems so simple, but would like to double check my thinking. My 77 WR250 has a Femsa ignition w/only 3 wires (black, yellow, and green). Black goes to the coil under the tank, yellow goes to the headlight, and the green goes to the taillight. Do I just tap into the green wire and run it through a brake light switch back to the taillight? I have a dual element taillight (#1157 dual element bulb w/ brake and taillight).

Thanks, John

I thought the green was chassis ground

This diagram includes the Femsa ignition.

Thank you Crashaholic. Unfortunately, I'm not that good at reading electrical schematics. It kind of looks like I should only use the green wire for a taillight. If I want a brake light I should use the headlight (yellow) wire for the switch? I may just forget about the brake light? I know back in the day I had a brake light wired in somehow.

I would TRY it the way you mentioned in the first post. See how it looks. Might not be brighter but still a visible brake indication.

found in Husky report #25

Thank you

The best option is to bin the Femsa and fit a nice new ignition.
I have Power Dynamo systems on both my '78 Huskys. Excellent starting, running and light output.
Part number for your Femsa replacement would be 71 37 799 DC
12 volt system with regulator rectifier and 180w of power.
These are not cheap, but in my opinion worth every penny (cent).
https://www.powerdynamo.biz/eng/systems/7137/7137dcmain.htm

grouty, that is definitely on my wish list, but as you said they are pricey. Maybe you can help me understand the difference between the AC and DC units and which one would be better?? Do you need a battery for the DC unit?

Thanks, John

I fitted the DC unit to mine as I wanted a decent horn and maybe the odd add on gizmo. Most of the AC horns I tried were awful. DC sounds better. (we need all this in the UK to make them road legal).
You do not need a battery with either the AC or DC systems. The AC kit comes with a voltage regulator to stop you blowing bulbs with excess voltage when you rev it. The DC system comes with the regulator and also a rectifier that converts the AC produced by the alternator to a DC current. DC is also happy to run LED bulbs should you wish to. The rectifier is a bit of a pain to locate under the tank on a 77/78 ML frame. I put mine on a bracket under the seat near the filter box.
The quality of the system is light years better than other aftermarket units (ask me how I know !!!). So in my eyes well worth the extra money.
If you want to see what happens when you fit an Electrex World system, hunt down my thread about my Husky Auto build !

Here is the link to my "Auto 2" engine and the fitment of the PowerDynamo (Vape) ignition.
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/another-390-auto-engine.84517/

I have a vape on my 450CR and it is awesome and still hard to find a place for the regulator, I made a tab and put it under the tank. and has leads for battery charging. Check this Page!! Post 152
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/1972-450-engine-questions.85931/page-8#post-645687

So, DFA, it looks like you installed the DC unit also?? I'm feeling confident this will be my next purchase.

John

Yeah John, It was in my bike when we met in Paxinos. Worked well until i fell off camber and the bike had to be towed, my first enduro!! DNF!!!