Like what info? All IAT's function about the same. It will have resistance, that varies with temperature. It will take an input voltage of usually 4.75-5.25 Vdc and resist it down to somewhere between .5-4.5Vdc depending on temperature. A very basic way to test it you can check resistance with an digital ohm meter, with it cold, then use a hairdryer to blow warm air across it (don't get carried away, don't use a heat gun) and watch for the resistance to change. More resistance when hot. More specific is testing the output voltage. Keihin IAT's should be about 2.8-3.0 Vdc at 70degF. Another good check, the IAT and coolant temp sensor should read about the same on a cold motor. In the event that it is failed or tests open, the computer will use a default value of 20degC
Thanks that helps. I am trying to get the plug parts both female and male to make a booster plug adapter.
FWIW that picture looks like the typical IAT sensor/plug found on ALL keihin fi stuff, like Honda MC's and ATV's. I may even have the harness-side plug from a junk harness. I've never seen the sensor side as a plug, just the sensor itself. may be able to hack a sensor up to fashion a plug of sorts. A booster plug adapter for what? To accomplish what task/wish? Just curious.
Looking into a "Booster Plug" to do a quick fix fueling issue. I use them on my other three beemers and they work great, but need to find a way to plug-in on both sides - the sensor and the harness to put a resistor change in it.
I see, sensor offset of whole map. Obviously you understand some things, you probably got a kick out of my first reply!
Yes and the measurement on my sensor was 2.99 ohms at 68 degres F. These things work great for a cheap fix, but I can't seem to find supplier of the plugs, May be an OEM built plug from Keihin. Second option is to find a compatable BMW sensor. This stuff always seems like detective work!! HA!
Cool. K&L has vastly improved their selection of electrical connectors in recent years. Have you considered splicing upline with a commonly available connector? Or maybe are shying away from modifying the stock harness?
Yes, but still need a plug end for the sensor. Hoping to find a BMW sensor that matches and then it is a slam dunk!
Wow, I needed to be here all the time I guess.... I am giving up on altering my TPS to lean out my entire map, Marc tipped me off to your technique, ljrat, and then I found this thread, I am going to try and resistor my Husky to a hotter temp, and leaner mixture. Do I need a digital voltmeter or can I use my old dial meter? What setting do I put the meter on to register resistance? I am thinking about splicing an old style glass fuse holder into my Y/Br wire and then putting the resistors in that, under the seat, for easy access. Any tips as to exactly what number value of resistor to start with? Does the table below make any sense to you guys, I want add about 20-30 degrees to the temp that should be sent to the ECU, but not higher because I dont want the system to increase fuel because it thinks it's too hot and might knock, or is the Mikuni so basic that it does not account for knock? Any help/education is appreciated! This map compensates for the change in density of the intake air charge when the intake air temperature changes. Colder air is more dense which requires more fuel to be added in order to maintain a steady combustible mixture. More fuel may also be added to reduce the risk of detonation if excessively hot air is encountered. This is a safety measure only and the intake air temps would need to be examined as a seperate issue if excessively hot intake air temps are encountered. (Not shown in example). The Air Temp Correction table is a 3D table allowing compensation across intake air temperature and engine load.
Here's what i know right now, digital meter, i used my autorange but it would be the lowest setting otherwise. No I don't recognize that chart. As soon as I find another BMW equivalent sensor, i might be able to give you some kind of idea on the range of resistance.
I bought a digital multimeter, set it to the lowest ohm range , do I need to stick one probe inside the temp tube that goes into the throttle body and then the other probe on a bare spot on the wire OR one probe on each of the 2 wires from the temp sensor? Trying to get the resistance of the temp sensor now so I can figure out what resistor to buy to make the sensor think it's 40 degrees hotter than it really is. Electrical stuff is my Achilles heel....
Sorry to arrive late, but I just found this post after Googling IAT testing, did you end up doing it & did it work for you? I got curious in this type of mod after seeing one for the TR650s http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/al...oducing-the-eruption.34831/page-6#post-404406 His seems like a good idea as it still accounts for air temperature changes. We have a fairly kind climate where I am, +5deg C up to +35deg C, so the system reading too cold won't be a problem for me. I figured if I can add maybe 5% to the fueling, it might be my cure If wish to sacrifice a new sensor, they're only $16 from Hall's - 8000 H3646..... You might find this helpful too. http://connectors-catalog.sys.yzk.co.jp/yazaki-web/english/index.html
Connectors for bikes used to hard to find! After hours and hours of searching for electrical connectors to hook up lights on my TXC (I'm a bit particular when doing wiring/make that most everything) I finally found a site that has motorcycle electrical connectors and sells them at very reasonable prices. Read the guys story that say about me, its pretty interesting. Check and see if he has what you are looking for, my bet is he will. If not, send him a message, he will do his best to get it for you. http://cycleterminal.com/ Mike.
NP Dangermouse449. This guy is super nice and will get you any connector if he don't already have and he don't rip you off. He does it for the love of motorcycles. Got to dig that! I see you have a 2011 449 have you ever had any issue with your bike running as if the coil is breaking down in warm weather? It just got warmer here (70) and was in the woods and after about an hour my bike started running horrible, like coil issue. I have megabomb FMF with 4.1 factory racing silencer and power commander V. So far I have bypassed the PCV, replace spark plug, checked wiring. None of which made any difference. The air temp dropped here to 45 Again so I covered the radiators to get temp up and had it to 200 degrees and it ran great but, I don't think the engine core temp got as hot due to the air temp outside. I know this bike has a capacitor & an air temperature sensor in air box and am wondering about those items. I am relatively new to fuel injection but, have worked on my bikes all my life and have pretty good mechanical and analytical skills but this one has me stumped. The map I have on the PCV was custom and is awesome ( I did tweak the fuel just a tad last year to take care of the corning flame out) but, only a bit and don't see that being the issue. If you have any ideas or see anyone with similar issue I would appreciate you forwarding to me. Thanks Mike
