I've got a fairly new to me TR650 and am getting it properly sorted. Someone already did a temperature sensor spoof which is working well as there are no flat spots or stalling. The bike also came with a 3D Printer airbox mod that hadn't been implemented very well so needs to be completely redone. I'm also almost 100% certain that whoever did the mod did not properly seal the box. Leaves me wondering which I want to do. In some ways I prefer the 3D printer mod because of the accessibility to the filter and it doesn't seem as if it requires removal of the airbox. I'm handy and taking the airbox out doesn't scare me, but it does look like a full day that I could be riding (or doing other things) instead of removing the airbox. I'd also prefer to keep the throttlebody throat sealed in the airbox. This bike has one of the highest air intakes I've ever seen and I'd like to keep it there. On the other hand, many riders seem to swear by the pod mod and believe it is the better of the two fixes. I also seem to recall seeing somewhere that it can be performed without the complete removal of the airbox (see above). The pod mod also seems to provide more surface area for filtration but I don't know how much that matters given the limiting factor of the inlet size. Given that both of these mods have been around for a year or more I'm assuming there is probably some good, recent data as well as improvements in both mods, and improvements in performing the mods. Comments?
Most recent data shows that the pod mod works perfectly and Throttle Bodies sparkly clean. Recent reports show that some 3d frames are prone to breakage. With the pod mod, you can check the TB for cleanliness during filter maintenance. With the 3d you have to trust it is doing the job. If the 3d mod didn't get the full box seal (dissassembly), you have no way to know how good it is doing, since you cannot see the TB bore without disassembly.
Might be cool to use one of these to check your throttle body.... http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-inspection-camera-61839.html
I bought one similar to this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/HIGH-QUALIT...061?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item25a53f2db5 You could put it on a coat hanger to send in. Picture is fine. I wanted to run it into my engine, but it was a 10mm camera, and just would not fit. I found one with an 8mm camera, but did not get it, yet.
Don't be so cheap, get the one that you can really use. BTW. years back when I sold my CBR 1000F, the guy used a scope down the sparkplug hole that showed the cross hatch on the cylinder walls.
That would be this one then $10 http://www.ebay.com/itm/291467474126?var=590553363732&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&fromMakeTrack=true It has the 90º mirror so you could view the valves too. The specs are adequate, and you can take pictures with the laptop. $10 delivered to your door. You are paying for the camera and led, nothing more, the rest is your laptop or computer, so you save on hardware you already have. It's small, so your already packed shelves will not suffer too much. Well I just talked myself into ordering one I think. . Features(6 LED USB Endoscope(2M)): Brand new and high quality. This Mini USB Inspection Camera makes use of optoelectronic technology to investigate hard-to-reach area. This inspection camera has many applications including ear detection, oral examination, search and rescue, pipeline inspection, engine inspection, video monitor, sewer pipe inspection, cast mould inwall inspection etc. High resolution with 1/9 CMOS camera. Built-in 6 LED light (with Brightness Control) on camera head to illuminate the inspection area. Waterproof wire endoscope. With a 7mm camera head. Photo shooting and video recording. Specifications: Camera head outer diameter: 7mm. Pixels: 300000 pixels. Resolution: 640*480(VGA), 30 ftps. LED: 6 White LED Bright light. Focal distance: 2cm-infinate. USB interface: USB 2.0. Waterproof level: IP67. Support systems: Windows 2000 / XP / Vista / 7. Temperture: -20 ~ 100鈩? Cable length: 2m. Note: This product does not support the Apple system. Package Included: 1 x USB Endoscope 1 x Mirror
I appreciate you guys posting all of this information. Parts showed up today for a bike I pick up Thursday
All my parts are in, too. I'm going to take the bike down for a few weeks and do some baseline maintenance. Grease the steering head bearings. Replace the clutch cable. Check/set the valves. Replace the fork fluid with 5 weight. Install a new handlebar to replace the one my son bent the other day. Properly clean the rear of the engine case. Flush the brake fluid. Oh yes, and execute on the pod mod and relocate the crankcase breather. Is there a procedure for cleaning the throttle body if it proves to be full of grit???
I won't profess to having the correct method for cleaning the throttle body but I have always used denatured alcohol and Q-tips to clean them. Just keep swabbing until the Q-tip comes away clean. Others may have a better method.
If you're doing the valves, just remove the throttle body completely and hit it with carby cleaner. Do the stepper motor while you're there too. 2 minute job if you've got access to the valves.
Is there an ECU reset or anything like that I have to do if I disconnect the TB? Some of the EFI cars I've worked on require a reset by a shop level diagnostic system upon disconnection of various parts, and the TB is often one of these parts. Can't believe it is as easy as taking everything apart and putting it all back together. I haven't looked yet but I'm guessing the valve adjustment requires partial disassembly of the head and removal of the camshaft. And what's the "stepper motor"? I know what a stepper motor is but where is this one and what is it stepping?
Yes, you can simply disassemble and reassemble the parts. The stepper motor is the idle air controller attached to the side of the throttle body. It can get gummed up causing poor running. The parts catalog calls it a stepper motor. http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=25877805#post25877805
MCW, first I must give a word of caution. If you are not familiar with the other topics of frying an ECU, here is the basics. PULL THE BATTERY, disconnect ground first, then hot. Remove it from the bike. The ecu on our TR650's are not grounded and there have been at least 3 bikes downed from shorting something to the ECU. One of them happened at a dealership by the "trained" mechanics. It is not only expensive, but will leave you without your bike for quite awhile. The IAC (idle air control), also known as the stepper, aids in idle stability. Located on the same side as the TPS. It bypasses a stream of air in conjunction with fueling changes to create a stable idle. If you remove the TB, you should not need the tune, but it may be advised anyway. The shop level diags and adjustment will calibrate the TPS settings with the rest of the system, so, theoretically you should be fine, unless you monkey with the tps or the butterfly adjustment screw. My suspicion, however, for our production run, is that some of the bikes may not be set up proper from the factory, and only got an "out of the box" tune. Some bikes are horrible off idle stalling, some not. The butterfly set screw is nearly impossible to get to, and many dealers will not venture in to adjust and calibrate the idle for the shop rate allowed. When you think of this efi system, and the assembly and tune process, there is plenty of room for error or discrepancy with the fine tune the bike needs. The MOSS system was new and foreign to most every Husky dealer who had em. My guess is that only a handful of shops really knew how to use it, thus all the different horror stories on tune. My hope is that the new OSS that apparently has rolled out overseas, will address this issue. I have not heard as of yet if the GS911 will be able to calibrate tps. I hope so, but not likely. Maybe EK9 can ask WC about it.
