Any suggestions?? TE511....

I have a TE511 (2011), with FMF Powercore 4 and JD Tuner fitted. The bike ran terrible after fitting the tuner, so I got it dyno tuned. I got it back, and while it was a lot better, it still is not any where near great. The middle and top range is good, but its the bottom that is the problem. It is really easy to stall, and the engine misses and cuts in and out very briefly at low revs. I spoke to the bloke that dyno tuned it, and he said that the Tuner wont allow him to add anymore fuel, which is what it needs. The green is all ready on 8, and it needs more. Everybody else on here seems to have around 3.5-4.5 for their green. Does anybody have any suggestions why it would need so much fuel to run smoothly? And what I need to o to fix it.....

Im not a tight ass, but I would rather not spend to much money in trying to fix this. I just want a smooth bike with lots of balls, and I think the TE511 will be that when it gets sorted.

Check the Italian 4-stroke section of this forum, lots of good info. Specifically:
-2nd throttle body removal
-Map 3 upgrade (base map upon which the JD tuner operates. Has more fuel at low RPMs).
-TPS reset/adjustment
-Power Commander V (if the JD is not enough)

You can send us your ecu for remapping. This will help your issue, but not fully cure it. Adding a powercommander 5 on top of map#3 will completely cure that issue with one of our custom maps. You may also have your bike retuned on a dyno with the powercommander 5.

http://www.ziptyracing.com/te449-511-ecu-upgrade/ *don't forget to download and fill out the release form, then send it with your ecu*

http://www.ziptyracing.com/powercommander-5/ *if you wish me to load one of my maps, please indicate this in the invoice notes*

The temp sensor fails sometimes, it trows the ECU out. Not expensive to replace and they upgraded the part to better spec. Don't have the part number on me but should be easy to find.

Temperature sensors do fail on the 449s, but that is not the issue here.

It is also possible you are trying to tune around an improperly set base TPS value.
This bikes ecu senses engine load from the TPS.
If the initial setting is incorrect (low) then all the maps will be correspondingly lean.
The factory value was 0.7v at idle.

Also, and not everyone agrees, I personally believe the second butterfly causes much of the low-end stalling/running issues.
It isn't capable of quick open/close/open movements & can be caught closing when it should open.
These two things made my 2011 TE ridable, MAP3 made it better but did not fix the low down issues.
The PCV is a good tunable system, but you may not need it.

Thanks very much for your help everyone, I think I will try the TPS reset (does anyone have a link to how to reset it, I couldn't find it?) and get map 3 installed.
I have heard that map 3 is hard to install on 2011 ECU's, is this still an issue or....? if the JD is able to work off a better base map this more likely to rectify my problems....true?

If that doesn't work I will thank about adding a Power Commander. I would love one now but just trying to save some cash at the moment....(im not normally a tightass but theres other things im saving for, for once my bike isn't number 1 priority haha)

JD tuner will work better off of Map3

Map 3 will not install on 2011 449s because the ECU is locked, your 511 should be good though.

Just to be clear, there is an 'electronic TPS' reset, battery disconnect & relearn idle.
You are also able to manually correct the base idle voltage to the factory setting by physically moving the TPS on its slotted holes to read the correct voltage.
One will help idle type issues, the other will assist with mixture issues.

So I have taken my bike to Kixstart Motorcycles in Parkes (closest Husky dealer) and asked for Map 3. I spoke to the mechanic there and he said that he hasn't heard of the Map 3, but that it could refer to the Map designed for the Akro Ti full system which richens it up a heap (a Husky designed map). Is this the same thing?? He also said he could upgrade my ECU to the 2012 settings which he rekons is an improved version of the 2011. He said that it would help it pull better off the bottom which is what im aiming for. Do you fellas rekon this is the go or....? Is it different to ZipTys Map 3?

Map set 3 is the Akra Ti pipe map, yes.
Made richer for the more open exhaust.
While you're there they should be able to check your TPS voltage. If it is low, I'd suggest raising it.
These bikes seem to like a nice high idle, 1950 rings a bell as the factory setting.

After these things, you'll probably have to revisit your JD settings as all the maps will have changed.
If it were my bike, I'd present it with the JD inactive otherwise anything the guys at dealer do might be fighting the tuner box....

Here is my advice, remove your tuner, tps reset, set idle, see if problem is still there. if it is check all tps plugs for corrosion. Mine had the Sam problem. Root caused it to one corroded pin on the manual throttle. Diagnostic equipment will not pick it up.

Correct.
It's a good idea to check all your connections from time to time & treat them with some electronics grease.
Pressure washing the bikes only add more danger of water in the sensor connectors.
A small change in resistance in the readings can have a big effect as the ECU works voltage redings from 0 - 5 v.
Not a big range.

So, I got the 2012 maps installed, the Akro Ti map installed, and when I got the bike home, I did the TPS reset. Took it out and the bike ran perfect!! went hard all day (this was around 3 weeks ago). I was very happy and thought my issues were over. Went out on Saturday again, and something must of changed, it was running funny (lean) off the bottom again. I was thinking that I will redo the TPS reset, and set idle, with the JD inactive, and than get the tuner back to where it has to go again. Is this the right idea? Also, should I actually remove the whole tuner, or can I set all the settings on 3, which supposedly is the same as the factory mapping (And therefore inactive), and work from there. I will also examine and grease all the connections.....

I think all settings on 2 is the same as zero. What do you mean by lean? Less than you would have with map 3?

At low revs, just above idle, it runs very lumpy, sortof cuts in and out, and on deceleration it pops and crackles and backfires a lot. I assume it doesn't have enough fuel, which is what I mean by lean.
After getting Map 3 it wasn't much better, and then when I did TPS reset, it was good. It didn't run lumpy down low, and didn't pop and crackle as much. It was smooth to ride, and I didn't have to ride the clutch like it did with the original mapping. This was 3 weeks ago.
On Saturday I took it out, and for some reason it was lumpy down low again. Not as bad as it was with the Map 2, but it was popping and backfiring, and when cruising with the throttle just above idle, it would slightly cut in and out.
I don't know if inactivating the tuner, resetting the TPS, and adjusting the idle, and then tuning it again would make a difference.

Try TPS reset by disconnection the battery for 15 minutes and reconnecting.