Contemplating ARC composite levers or full brush guards for my TE 310. Initially felt having a spare set of levers on the trail might be good so instead just having the ARC would negate the need. I have contemplated guards though placement is a pain with many and my setup. The HDB look compelling but not completely sold. I like to keep my bike pared down weight wise and not sure if I want closed in bars as a buddy doesn't like them at all. Leaning towards some hard bar end inserts and ARC levers. I usually am not a crasher with 7 mtb seasons under my belt and only one deposit. Years ago I did toss a couple of bikes road racing but lessons learned and am more mature/conservative on the saddle today. So I've not heard many folks simply riding bare bars here though Tinken mentioned the ARCs and to me makes a great alternate setup for those not "planning" on getting wadded up and maybe just mild tip over now and then. http://arclevers.com/
Depends on where you ride. There is no way I could ride without hand guards where I ride. I would have a broken hand every time I ride. However, if you ride more open desert stuff, I see no reason for them.
Thanks Eaglefreek.... Probably more open areas locally and open trails in the NW later this summer reserving the tight stuff for my mtb.
I plan on running both arc levers and hand guards. I just don't like the feeling of having my hands trapped inside the guards.
the first thing i do when i come off is remove myself from the bike, my hands are never in the gaurds when it hits the deck, but i can just pick bike up and go, yeh bandy levers are good but for tight tree sections i would rather have a chainsaw... joking my hand guards are the only choice i would go for. p.s. winter helps keep some cold off hands too. bendy are trick tho
ARC levers on. Stock Pollisport guards needed a touch of the dremel on the brake side. Now I don't need to stress a drop, too much, while I ponder full guards.
2 year update on my ARC Composite Levers. First off these levers are comfortable and adjustable in throw while being able to withstand a lot of abuse. For me it meant not carrying spare levers and mounting a set of guards. They have held up to a few tip overs without issue. The one issue that developed and somewhat existed as new was that unlike stock the ARC did not utilize a spring of anything to cushion the "stop". I had a slight bit of wear on the clutch lever. Specifically the aluminum part where it stops in the clutch housing. The wear was at the end of the aluminum where it stops in the housing (there is a spring hole and a slightly rounded surface there). As new I had a slight play between the stop and where the lever started to actuate the clutch rod. In time the lever would rattle and the casting wore the aluminum stop a little to match it's surface. The lever rattled and had some slop develop when not on the lever though only in the lever throw. I contacted Ken at ARC and submitted a video and detailed photos. He offered to swap the lever which I did. It was clear that the rattling caused a little wear and slop to develop. Ken suggested upon seeing the lever to install a screw or something to fill the void in the housing and keep it from rattling and wearing. I have scraps of rubber and a piece of surfboard foot pad fit the space, so filled the void with the rubber and some goo to hold it. Now the lever is cushioned and sits against the clutch rod without any play or slop. A nylon screw trimmed to fit or just filling the hole and void with silicone could be used as well. The issue... View: http://youtu.be/cfUgF-ouFPc Lever stop in the clutch housing... Position of clutch lever when it is resting on the clutch rod. Note the rounded tip that was once square edged. The space between this and the above photo caused the lever to rattle and wear... You can see where the lever stops. Stock lever had a long spring that went in that hole and kept the lever "quiet". My final mod was to cut a small rectangle of 1/4 in or so foot pad material and fit it in the hole. Works like a spring keeping the lever lightly against the actuation rod. Now it no longer rattles and will negate any wear to the stop of the lever.
ARC sent me a replacement but we both agreed a new one would wear or rattle the same, so heads up to insert a nylon screw or something else suitable. A nylon screw might work well since one could ease it in or out to adjust the stop.
I bought the ARC levers and they are still in the box, because of this issue as I recall. Maybe I will give them another go. I plan on installing HDB guards, which are in the garage, but haven't gotten around to it. Grip ends are cut and bars ready to tap, so I'm close. Running both guards and ARCs isn't a bad idea, just in case. I do like having the stock rubber pivot covers over the working parts, but not possible with the ARCs.
With the stock Polisport covers on the TE they work with a little dremeling on the plastic but didn't know about those rubber covers as never had used them. Assume the large pivots the issue.
Looks like Jim could have used a set of ARC Composite levers on the 230 this year at the Tecate Enduro. Forgetting to bring his tool bag with the spare. Also note that he was using Bark Busters but the way he landed broke the lever anyway...
