...boy they are tight! I took the Throttle Body out and used a hand impact driver but the heads are starting to strip. Before I go any further, are there any tips to taking them out? I'm thinking of grinding flats on the screws and trying a wrench. Thanks!
we had to lock it in a vise, and use a good #2 phillips. they are a PITA! Lay on it, if that doesnt work we use vise grips.
I'm afraid to hammer the impact driver as the TB is cast aluminum and not very thick. Don't want to bust the ears off. I beginning to think the production of the new Husky motors in Taiwan is a good idea. My SYM scooter is flawless.....really.
I have used acetone in the past or a little heat to "soften up the threadlock" compound. The key phrase is a little heat, not so much as to damage anything in the surrounding areas. The acetone has to be able to penetrate into the thread area and evaporates very quickly and if you try to use it for soaking it make attack some composites.The other thing I have found is drywall screw bits have some grooves on the bit wings to help keep the screws from slipping while tightening, sometimes they fit better than regular screwdriver bits. good luck
Don't know how effective it would be- but in attempt to carefully apply heat to avoid surrounding components... you could try to heat your hand impact driver tip as hot as you can with a torch and then hold it to the screw-head as if you were going to turn it allowing it to heat sink/transfer heat. This may transmit enough heat to ease the effects of corrosion or thread lock... (but I can't imagine anyone using red threadlock on that/ maybe light stuff like the purple) its probably "tight" and slightly corroded/fusion. Then I'd replace with better hardware. Now that they are starting to strip its kinda like a tiger's tail at this point for you isn't it...
No, they are still intact, but feel the heads are gonna go if I push it. I think I'll try to heat it a touch and dremel some flats on the screws to "add" a 9mm wrench to the screw driver. I put some PB blaster on it also. This is all going to have to wait as I have just put it back on the bike.....if they came right out I was going to buy the 12pt Injector...that will have to wait till next time. Good news is I now know how to remove the TB from the bike. I just need to relube the throttle cables and start it after re-assembling the top end. Custom fitted my TC250 exhaust while I was at it and adressed a slightly tight intake valve. New Iridium plug and let's see how she runs.
I have never had to remove Husqvarna injector screws but I am an auto mechanic and we use an old soldering gun to heat the head of screws which transfers heat through the whole screw to help soften the thread lock on some applications. I have had some screws I thought were not coming out until I used this method.
Good idea! I have a soldering gun. It must be thread lock and not corrosion...the bike is a 2010 with very little use.
Yes Red Loc-tight, Tamper Proof..... Ha Ha , I used a #2 bit? or same driver for a 1/4-20 in the US, on 1/4" drive breaker bar. good bit and leverage worked for me. The soldering iron is a great Idea, but there is fuel near by? I work with red loc-tight all day long. I use torch to bake it in other aps. I think this is a great thread to share what works. We don't want to hack our Huskys to make it run like is should....
No fuel...TB out of bike in a vise w aluminum jaws. back burner on this now....I have to fix a sheared woodruff key caused by the dealer who "fixed" my starter gears.
My first one came out easy. I just applied a little torque to the driver, and "pop" it was loose. No evidence of any Loctite on the threads. Tried it with the second one and the head stripped out on the screw. It seemed like the second screw was much softer than the first. I just squirted a little Kroil on it, waited about 30 minutes, and used a chisel to pop it loose. It didn't take much at all after the Kroil worked its way around the threads. Again, there was no evidence of any Loctite. I think they just get locked in there by galvanic corrosion. I'll bet if I had used the Kroil in the first place they would have both come out easily. That stuff is magic.
I changed out my injector and ECU on my 2012 TE250 today. I tried to get the screws out with the injector on the bike and turned to the side, but in the end I had to take fuel injector unit out of the bike. I placed it in a wood vise and lightly snugged it in and used a ratchet with a good phillips bit, and the bolts unseated with hard pressure and the leverage from the ratchet. I did spray the bolts with bolt loosening spray (PB something..can't remember). It is easy to get the unit off and back on the bike. I had to find a small hose clamp to go on the fuel line that goes to the emergency fuel line. The one that was on it looks factory installed and I could not get it to close. I saw several lines with the same hose clamp so I will get a few more small sized hose clamps for future use. The ECU was very easy to change out. I was pleasantly surprised when the bike fired right up and sounded good. Because it was late I only rode it around the block and it seemed to work ok. I will know more once I can ride it in the dirt.
