Bad new crank bearings??

To make a very long story short rebuild a couple motors. I started assembling one and the crank would bind when the bolts were tightened. Here is what I found. And I tested it by putting old bearings back in. The chanfer isn't deep enough
Old bearing

New bearing

Well after doing some reading I found my answer. Counterfeit bearings. These were bought from a reputable dealer. That means these bearings are in the husqvarna parts system. Fucking great. At least I caught it now.

Thanks for finding this and posting. Any idea how the rest of us could ID these bad bearings?

Widespread I assume affects all bikes. I was looking at the bearings this morning for a sec. I think I found a quick way to tell tgem apart. I spent 20 hours and splitting the cases 6 times to figure this out. Yeah a tad upset. Lol

I've heard of counterfeit brake pads, nuts and bolts, ball joints and just about any part you can name, all courtesy of our Chinese neighbors.

Yeah...they stamp them with SKF/Kyoto markings and everything.

They are not only in the Husky parts system...they are in the military procurement system as well.

Some expensive planes and missles have failed because of this.

How did you figure out they were counterfit?

K here is the deal. I talked to George at uptite and he called it before I got it out of my mouth. They are Chinese bearings stamped SNR on them. So I guess SNR outsourced the bearings to China. Now that's the only way for these bearings to get into the husqvarna parts pool. Now does husqvarna know? I don't know and don't care. What I do know is I paid 40 bucks for each bearing for some crap bearing that will cost me thousands. I am sending them back for a full refund. No problem there.

George has real bearings. 100 each but it's worth it. I'm not rolling the dice.

Well I will post up pics later but a good indication was the printing style between the two. Need a magnifying glass to see it.

I was thinking this afternoon.. I don't wanta scare anybody or put out false info so I took out my other engine. It has a new crank and tge bearings in there are what I believe to be the bad crank bearings. I first looked at the right side with the crank already installed. Looking down I could see a .0010 gap between the crank shaft and case. I continued on and installed the left side. Tightened down the bolts. The crank did spin but not like it should and had some resistance. And the counterballancer lobe was not center.

So these bearings are not correct.

Here is the easiest way to tell. Look closely at the printing. For example the letter C. It's like a regular "c". The good ones are kinda flat on the back side. Also the lines in the letters are not consistent. One looks professional obe does not. I also noticed on the part number the bad one has slight smaller and thinner lines.