125-200cc Base Valve Removal KYB 48mm cartridge forks?

Hi Guys

I need to remove the compression valves from the KYB 48mm forks on my bike. Quote from another forum:

"Whatever you choose, those forks are easy to revalve. Just lay the bike on it's side with the wheel up so the fork oil doesn't leak out, compress the forks using a strap on the wheel and triple clamp, pop off the comp adjusters."

Anyone tried this approach? Just looking to avoid buying special tools to disassemble the forks and remove the cartridges, etc.

Thanks

Pretty lazy way to go about it, but it could be done.

Note: the following only works on the open cartridge forks. The closed cartridge forks are different.

If you have access to an impact gun, the base valves are really easy to get off. Just take the forks off the bike, flip them over, compress them by hand a tad, and zip the base valves out.

Note that only 1/3 of the fork valving is on the base valve. The rebound stack is on the midvalve, and there is another compression valve on the mid as well. You might be able to accomplish what you're looking for by just working on the base, but you might not. Just FYI.

Great info, thank you. I am looking at installing Race Tech Gold Valves to try and cure the harsh feeling that these forks are giving.

The instructions that come with the Gold Valves recommend converting the mid valve to a standard check valve, because the mid valve creates compression damping - just as you describe. Does this require cartridge disassembly?

Yes, converting the mid will require disassembling the cartridge. You can do this without special tools in theory, but in practice it's sketchy.

Here's some info about the disassembly in another thread: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/diy-tuning-the-sachs-shock.23893/page-5#post-323341

On the topic of revalving: if you convert the mid and go to a racetech gold valve stack, it will definitely be a lot softer. You'll get plenty of different opinions on this, but I don't like converting mids to check valve, seems like a waste to just disable a useful, tunable part of the fork. You should be able to get some improvement by adjusting the base valve only, but without loosening up the float on the mid, it might not be as much as you want.

Lots of info is floating around on here about adjusting your forks without spending $200 on gold valves, if you're up for it.

Appreciate the input - there is a lot of of good knowledge on this forum.

I have tried playing with oil levels and changed the springs but still not happy with these forks so that's why I am looking at changing the valving.

There looks to be a good deal to learn on this subject...

Yeah, oil level and springs doesn't always get you to where you need to be.

If you want to try it, open the forks up and post up what's in there, I am sure some people here will give feedback!