Basic one, is the 87-89 Kick Lever a true upgrade over the previous designs????

[1Tuff500XC]

On my slow going 500XC project, I'm upfitting what I can to 87 specs as I locate missing pieces to the puzzle. I noticed that while I have the correct 85 to 86 style kick start lever, that they changed them again for the 87 to 89 model years. No topside bolt, only one in from the side holding the lever to the splined part.

Anybody that has perhaps had Husky's of varied years, have or know why they changed the design again in 87???? Just thinking if it's some how more durable, or easier to repair or something, that I might update that little item as well. Though out of everything, for appearances only, few would likely notice. If there's a good reason, then.......

 

[oldhuskychuck]

try and use the early levers, they are stronger,
the later levers tend to crack at the joint on big bore bikes.

 

[1Tuff500XC]

OK, great input. Thanks a bunch, really appreciate it. You've easily had the experience to be in the know on this one.

So on an 85, just stick with the 85/86 style then, or is there a yet earlier one that has the correct shape and would potentially be stronger????

 

[Northern Husky]

the 85 is all steel, the 86 has the lower part steel and the upper part ally and is shorter maybe 3/4 of a inch, the 84LCs i believe had even shorter length all steel kicker, i will dig one out and let you know.
The length is a matter of taste i guess l prefer the longer, l find it easier to kick and less chance of shin rash courtesy of the back of the pegs.

Not wanting to hijack your thread , this might help all if someone has some input. All my kick starters are sloppy by that i mean they have no return/retaining spring action to the folded in postion. ls this common place? Has anyone figured out some kind of spring washer deal...............like in the old big Maico clutches........................

 

[1Tuff500XC]

Actually, this has turned out to be a bit more interesting than I expected.

THe arm I bought then is an 86. Steel splined bottom, aluminum leg/kicker.

I'm vertically challenged as it is for one of these big Husky's, so the starting technique is likely going to be an interesting learning process up front. As compared to Jap 250's I've previously had only minimal issues with starting. Only 5'8", but atleast now up to the 200-208 weight range. That should help starting.

 

[1Tuff500XC]

Sounds like if I break this one, then I should just get an 85, for a strength upgrade.

 

[1Tuff500XC]

Incidently, I've never had a kickstart bike where the kicker was spring loaded to want to turn back in. The only thing sprung, has been a little spring loaded ball bearing / detent helping to hold it out once you put it into the start position. So if your foot slips off, the recoil doesn't close it. YOu do that with your hand, or foot.

 

[LHill]

That 500 is going to be a little harder to kick through than a 250. I have two suggestions: first, make sure the kickstarter engages earlier than later, ie about 2:00 instead 3:00 or 4:00. It all depends on the guy that put your kickstarter mechanism together. I had a 81 430 that engaged at about 4:00 and was impossible to start with the kickstarter. Forest Stall reset it in about 5 minutes so it engaged much earlier. That and using the advice he gave me in point number two below made it a one or two kick afair. Point two was the starting procedure: kick it through slowly until you feel the piston come up toward TDC. Go slightly past TDC and give it all you've got. That way the inertia of the motor spinning from the kick gets you past TDC on the next stroke. I too am vertically challenged and find it extremely difficult to start my current ride, an '87 430 WR. I'm about 5'9" and all I need is about two more inches (where did I hear that before) and kicking it through is easy. I carry a stool with me that's about 14 inches high and very stable on just about any surface. On the trail I look for a rut and put the bike in it and it's a one kick afair. My buddies get a good laugh when they see the stool but they change their Jap electric start tune when I smoke 'um on the twisties.

 

[1Tuff500XC]

LOL, on the two more inches comment.

I'll be assembling the whole bike, engine included, so I'll assess the clocking of the little kicker pawl catch dohickie/part / kicker mechanism. I was already wondering about that clocking as I looked at the parts to the puzzle I have thus far. Was thinking, hmm, that could affect the kickers grab point depending on.......hmmm Just made mental note, and figured we'll ask that question when we get there.

I'm expecting to have to likely stand on something when she is cold, to get a couple few full hearted kicks. But once warm, then I'll just try to get uphill/upground, put the bike a tiny bit lower, lean it a tiny bit, and I'm hopeing that will be enough. I'm more worried about some injuries I've got coming into play with it, than anything. Heck, if I have to stand on freakin step ladder, I'll do it. We're gonna ride this thing, one way or another.

Hey, LHill, what do you weigh???? I know weight helps I was gonna say a bunch, but that's only if you can get up over the kicker enough to get the leg straightened out lol.

 

[Northern Husky]

That 500 is going to be a little harder to kick through than a 250. I have two suggestions: first, make sure the kickstarter engages earlier than later, ie about 2:00 instead 3:00 or 4:00. It all depends on the guy that put your kickstarter mechanism together. I had a 81 430 that engaged at about 4:00 and was impossible to start with the kickstarter. Forest Stall reset it in about 5 minutes so it engaged much earlier. That and using the advice he gave me in point number two below made it a one or two kick afair. Point two was the starting procedure: kick it through slowly until you feel the piston come up toward TDC. Go slightly past TDC and give it all you've got. That way the inertia of the motor spinning from the kick gets you past TDC on the next stroke. I too am vertically challenged and find it extremely difficult to start my current ride, an '87 430 WR. I'm about 5'9" and all I need is about two more inches (where did I hear that before) and kicking it through is easy. I carry a stool with me that's about 14 inches high and very stable on just about any surface. On the trail I look for a rut and put the bike in it and it's a one kick afair. My buddies get a good laugh when they see the stool but they change their Jap electric start tune when I smoke 'um on the twisties.

t
Yep, im 5.10" 180lbs, i have been riding big Huskys for 20 years. my trailer arm is the same height as my foot peg, i always start it standing off the bike. ( my first husky 500 came from a dude who was showing of on his new husky, kicked it with his left while sitting on the bike, it hurt him bad,i brought the bike 2 years later he got sick of looking at it!)

 

[1Tuff500XC]

My last dirt bike owned was in 94. It was an extremely hopped up 85 Honda CR250. I dug out my mags, and did privateer porting mods, milled the head, and did some additional engine mods as I reassembled it. The bike was a hotrod, and would out drag every early 90's 250 I ever rode or practice track raced with. Blew peoples minds how clearly it would out hp on any strait the other bikes. Bike had a lot of compression.

Now, as I recall on that bike, albeit a 250, that once I got some hours on the engine, and more, once it was warmed up, the resistance to kicking over was relieved a fair amount. Would you guys say these big bore Husky's likewise do get a bunch easier to start once it has been running???? I'm assuming yes. Guess I'm hopeing that with a boot on, perhaps I will only have to stand on something off the bike, on the initial cold start.


Guessing I should just stick with the 86 style kicker then as well, and just see how it does. It is in really tight shape, so that's a good start atleast.