Hi guys I had a pretty big "off" on Saturday - broke my collarbone, and obviously bent up the poor Husky too. The muffler is bent on the mount, which should be easy enough to bend back. My concern is more with the bars/bar mounts. At first I thought I had just bent the bars, but on closer inspection it seems to be more the mounts that are out of shape. The left of the bike took the brunt of the impact: My question is whether I need to replace the mounts, or whether it is just a case of loosening the bolts so that the rubber dampers can take their original shape again? I was thinking of changing the bars to some Renthal Twinwall CR High bend bars anyway, so am not too worried if the bars are gone. If I do need to replace the mounts, does anyone know if the KTM PHDS (Progressive Handlebar Damping System) mounts will fit? They look a good alternative to Flexx bars. I am finding the front end very harsh at the moment (one of the contributing factors to my fall) which is why I am considering the PHDS mounts. Thanks for your help in advance.
Loosen it all up and see if it goes back into place. If not, you may have bent the bolt that holds the mount to the top clamp on the left side. I've used Kawasaki and Honda mounts on the stock Husky clamp, so the KTM unit may fit. Kawasaki has the same bolt diam. as Husky, so they go right on. With Honda you have to remove the steel sleeve in the rubber and drill out the concave washers. Sounds like you're going to have plenty of time to tinker with it.
Maybe the bike will be OK ... I dropped mine ~hard on the down side of a berm a few days back and twisted my bars up there some also ... I always wear a chest protector just to get the should pad protection ...Last time I broke my collar bone, DOCs did nothing but told me to hold my arm up in a sling and give me some pain medicine ... They mentioned once about cutting me open and pinning it or something but I just said no thanks ... Just relax and endure the pain ...U'll be back in a few weeks ...
Good to hear. Hope I am as lucky as you - though I was going significantly faster than you would have been. I was giving it a good go on a decently open fire trail when I hit a small rock which deflected me into a big rock that stopped the bike... sending me headlong over the bars I always ride fully padded up with my EVS Ballistic body armor as it's just smart - but when my 125kg frame lands on just the shoulder, something had to give... padding can only do so much Thanks for the advice. So far pain killers and minimal movement seem to be doing the trick
My KXF used to twist up the top clamp all the time, because i crash all the time. Applied racing makes a set of mount cones for honda that are much denser than the stock ones. They have nice billet washers as well. Once i swapped to the applied cones my bars stayed in place for most get offs.
bummer on the wreck, hope you heal up quick! if you have the stock Husky rubber bushings/mounts, check out BRPs nylon bushings, they cured my TCs tendency to twist so easily. eventually I couldn't straighten the bars at all anymore but the BRP bushings fixed the alignment for good
Mine did the same thing.I also went with the BRP bushings and mounts.Now I just bend the bolts when I crash,just order a few extra.
Hey, hope you heal up fast... If the top plate will not lay flat on a table, it's toast. We had one bent and everything would line up until the top plate was tightened down...everything would twist crooked. Most of everything else was still ok. Bolts were straight, risers looked ok, but the top plate was warped. When I got the new one everything stayed square. After I got the new one I went after the old plate with a vise and some force. Got it somewhat flat but it certainly would have been so weak it would have bent again real easy. Toast and trashed...Hopefully a new plate might be all you need.
I have the exact same symptom on my TE 610.Bolts and risers ok but the plate twisted!Im about to order a new one next week and see what happens.I hope it works for me too...
Check out the middle of my thread (I think its the second page) here: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/2010-te250-power-up-and-protection-and-my-introduction.17845/page-2 I suspect your bar clamp is bent like mine was. C
Well, finally got to work on the bike this weekend. The top clamp is a little twisted unfortunately, but not too bad, so when tightened down it seems to clamp properly. The clamps were just just twisted in the rubbers, so I could have just loosened the bolts and put them back in place - but I had ordered a set of the BRP aluminium mounts to replace them so figured I may as well install them.Was chuffed that the bolts weren't even bent - so this is a pretty tough bike all things considered. I think I will be replacing the clamps in the future. If I can't get a cheap priced set of PHDS clamps I think I'll get the Renthal clamps to go with the Renthal bars. BTW, anyone know what the effect of changing the clamp offset is? I have put mine so they are offset 10mm behind the line of the centre of the forks for now, though I think they were directly in line with the line of the fork centres before. I am hoping the offset will make the steering less twitchy (based on what I remember from changing the position of my BMX handlebars as a kid *shrug* Thanks for your advice guys, I appreciate it.
if youre just moving handlebar mount location back and forth you are kinda moving where you sit/stand on the bike. handlebars in the back position equals your whole body slightly farther back on the bike. i prefer all the way forward but everyone is different - just try it in a few positions and see how it feels. you may increase harshness and vibration if you change out your rubber cones for different ones. if your front end is "twitchy" what tire, air pressure, and race sag on rear shock you running?
I had the exact same left side crash Saturday. These photo could have been taken right from my bike. I fooled around with the risers and couldn't find anything bent. I didn't think that the warped top plate could create enough force to move the risers but I must have been wrong. So other than OE, what are the options for a new top plate that may be a little stronger?
In the end I decided that if I was going to replace the clamps I was going to go with the Renthal Bar Mounts (http://www.renthal.com/File/product16a.asp). That way you never really need to worry about a plate warping as the "clamp" bits are seperate.
I ordered a new factory top plate from Husqvarna for $18. In the mean time, I cut out the two cross sections out of the plate and filed down each clamp so the edges are nice and smooth. I now have two independent top clamps that hold the bars down to the factory risers. A cheap 15 min fix! Everything is straight and back to original shape. FYI John
Has anybody else tried the Renthal Mounts? I'm wondering if they keep the bars at the standard height and setback.
