250-500cc Brand New 2012 WR 300 came today-Newbie Alert

Well I finally got my bike delivered today. The nearest dealer to me is about 8 hrs away-- fingers crossed I never have any serious issue.

After installing the bars and removing all the shipping plastic and finally getting to sit on the bike and can honestly say---WOW!! I LOVE the size, look and feel of the bike, I don't know what shorter people must think but I'm 6'-4" and love it. Finally a bike that I don't feel like its to small.

Few questions for the pro--

any one have a install sheet for the light kit and speedo computer? Everything came in a box without and instruction-- and everything is completely disassembled.

Also can some one please help me with a good starting point for the carb jetting, I've read about it tones and searched here, but just want a good base line to start with-- I'll leave it stock and my elevation is 1500'

It's winter here all I won't be able to ride for a few months, but that will give me time to pick up some goodies and have them installed before I ride. I already got a used Hyde skid plate/pipe guard off eBay and some rad braces off here. Next will be some Cycra probend CRM protectors.

Anything that you guys can think of that I should do please feel free to let me know.

This is my first Husky and I can't wait for spring to take this bike for a ride!! I sold my 2005 WR 450 in the fall so it was perfect timing. I got a smoking deal and the dealer was pretty good about shipping. All in all it was a pretty painless transaction.

Anyways thanks in advance.
Aaron

Here she is----> Dang, I cant wait for spring

Congrats on the new ride.

I was looking for instructions for mine; never found any.

Remove the tank, and under the tank is the voltage regulator, which has a loose yellow (power) wire. Connect that to the harness that came with the bike, ground the ring terminal on the harness (I grounded mine to the same ground used by the voltage reg). I connected it with the little resistor pigtail in series with the power feed, I believe.

Run the wires up to the front of the bike (I ran mine around the right side of the head tube). There are 4 connectors on the front of the harness; 1 big one for the dash, 1 small one for the speedo sensor, and 2 single-wire units for the headlight.

The speedo sensor just screws into the brake caliper bracket, screw it in until you have roughly a 0.020-0.040 gap to the magnet (should already be mounted on the rotor). Run this up with the brake line.

Remove the number plate, install the plastic dash bracket, screw the dash in from the back. Make sure you install or flip the battery in the back of the dash!

That's about it. I didn't like the stock tail light, so I mounted an Acerbis X-LED using the power supplied by the stock harness, and put the brake light through a pressure switch on the rear master cylinder.

I currently have the JD jet kit on mine, seems pretty decent. If you want the cheaper option:

Try a 35 pilot (stock is 45). Stock (420) main is probably ok, could try going leaner, like 400 or 410. Stock (GAY) needle is probably fine, stock it's in the 3rd clip, I was going to try the 4th for mine before I got the JD kit.

I think the stock needle profile is the biggest hindrance to the bike. It'll run ok with it though, just not perfect.

I may be selling my JD jet kit, if I decide that I like the PWK carb better; just need to test it out...

@ 1500' elev?

430-440 main
45 pilot
GAY needle? #4 or #5 (down from top)
slide - 4.0
1.0 to 1-1/4 turn out on the AS

this beast wants gas. check yer fluids first! do a few 2-3 mins idles on the stand. let her cool stone cold between same. then gingerly ride some to get your set up and pedals they way ya want. then go out for a short romp and check that plug after 5-10 mins after its warmed up. do not let it get lean. check yer low speed/midrang stuff first. if it looks out go for a short blast on the main in 3rd, chop kill and read the plug. motor makes really good freindly grunty power with a nice bark and rip and will do so on the cusp of too lean so read that plug. do not let either slow or WFO circuits get lean.

get longer sleeves for your shirts...gonna need 'em...braooooooop!

JD jetting kit has a 32.5 pilot. Mine, with a 35, still wanted the air screw 2.0 turns out. I can't, in good conscience, recommend a 45. Agree to disagree, I guess...

The owner's manual says that the 300 has a 35 pilot, although they seem to all ship with 45s. The 250s come with a bigger main (430 vs 420), and yet they come with a 40 pilot. Other bikes that run the TMX carb (like CR250s) run pilot jets in the 35-ish range. FMF has jetting recommendations for older CRFs and they 30-35 pilot, depending on the year.

yup. diff strokes for diff demographics.
oh and i totally can recomend rich jetting, do it a lot. posed to start rich, not lean, anyways and the OM is way too lean for hammering. a fouled plug beats a squeak in my book.
numbers are not that important to me. plug color is. the gas we have here is seriously oxygenated and loaded with alcohol. it gets what it wants. esp when it comes to 2T's.

most OM specs are for CARB and EPA referance. and if someone tells ya the factory dont ship bikes with EPA jetting well, tell them i said they are wrong. cuz that's exactly what we do. in fact most of the time we send them out so lean you cant ride them and hurt them. but theyll idle and blip on the stand and pass the reg's and sniff.

the WR250/300 jetting in the OM is close, but it's lean for my area, way lean.

oh- and almost forgot...

YMMV!

If you look at the jetting database, almost nobody is using a 45 pilot, not even the 125/144 guys, who need a WAY bigger main jet than the 250/300s.

My bike runs great with a 35 pilot, or a 32.5 pilot with the JD kit.

Can't find any justification that 45 is the right size. I agree that it's better to err on the side of too rich, but there's no reason to believe that, say, a 35 or 40 pilot doesn't satisfy that requirement.

My bike was MUCH more consistent with starting and idling with a smaller pilot.

what satisfies it is what it wants. i understand and hear you. just posting my suggestions.

also....pull the clutch side hand grip off, glue and wire it.

Thanks for all the help and info guys, I'm sure it'll all help out!

Does any one out there have an electronic copy of the repair manual, the Quick manual the came with the bike is a joke and I didn't get a USB drive with the bike with the other info.

Thanks people!

I too am a WR300 newbie. Would greatly appreciate hearing about your experiences, good or bad. I do not want to find out the hard way about issues with our bikes.

Don't forget that the slide cut comes into play and should be listed with the rest of the jetting specs. Could easily explain the difference of opinion on PJs and IMS turns.

Shop Manual found there. I assume you're in Canadia. I'm in Calgary, 5000ft+ always.

Southern Alberta Jetting I've got it down to 410, 37, and 3rd I believe...

to elaboarate and beat a dead donkey....sorry, i got busy at work.

the JD kit is totally custom non-OEM stuff.

the database is fine for a baseline, so is the OM, i rarely use exactly the same stuff as others too. i gave a safe starting point with the factory stuff at such a low elevation with the factory parts.

mine runs fine. it dont blubber and i can lugg it on 40% grades for 10 mins in second then pop out the top and rip in 5th at race pace then do it all over again w/o a ping or squeak. the factory stuff is less than optimal. the GAY needle is a total bastard product too, try and cross-referance it, its a stop-gap, its not optimal. to make it safe for "WFO then chop" stuff ya gota yank it up to the #4 or #5 clip setting and im not the only one that knows this. it makes the low speed stuff a tic rich, not hugely so, but it is safe- esp when yer in the ugly stuff and roling on huge loads climbing at very slow speeds, you dont want it even close to lean there.

the JD kit is optimal as it comes with a new nozzle and custom needles. all this affects your low to upper mid, thusly, you can actually use a slightly smaller PJ and obtain good tip-in w/o a bog or being overly rich using James' custom goodies because his stuff completely alters the fuel curve of that carb. it's a total different animal with his stuff in it.

i doubt the OP's bike came with the JD kit. it most likely came with the same stuff as mine as a (assumed) US bike so...and as such i gave him a safe starting point, esp since he's almost at sea level. i rarely give spot on jetting specs for a dozen reasons. and none of this is any disrepsect intended to you. im sure your settings are fine with the JD Kit.

* * *

in any, EVERY case: read the plug, do not take anyones word for it, they wont buy you a new motor. that's the final word on any jetting. PERIOD.

few bikes will jet the exact same way due to a list of factors.

this was a killer machine right from the box. i spent zero time messing with it, other than some minor carb tweaking.

starts: get used to the odd kicker, its odd, but doable. the myth is true. hey- its a right hand drive they had to stick the lever somewhere right? so it ends up in front of the peg of sorts. i'm old, 5'6", pretty crippled up. if i can get it lit so can anyone. right DD? wear an MX boot or buy an extra foot. if it kicks back with sneakers on? buh-bye footy.

only weird thing i found was the left grip was not glued on. it felt secure grabbing it with a twist but i noticed there was no glue oozing out. so instead of gripping it i yanked it outward and FOOP! off it came. blow it off with compressed air, scuff the bar with #60 clean and glue and wire that on, wait 8 hours and go for a putt.

you wont be disapointed. the motor and suspension are super nice. i hadnt ridden or touched a bike in two years and did a gnarly ride saturday in some brutally icy stuff and cleared around 10,000' of up n down. burned a tank and my hands are blister free. its smooth and friendly and easy to go way too fast on. the bottom and mid are wicked good. wicked good. sewing machine smooth lugging and king kong torque. snap it and hang on. 3 motors in one. get to know it and all you'll do is smile when you come home and see it on the stand.

the USB manual is on the HVNA website. i didnt get the USB thingy either. parts and set up etc:

http://husqvarna-motorcyclesna.com/manuals.php

i started with:
Fork protrution: 1.5 rings.
FC: 13 out
FR: 10 out
Sag: about 3.5-4". didnt get too crazy with it just yet it needs to settle in.
SHS: 8 clicks in from full out. makes the chop go bye-bye. sit down and roll it on.
SLS: didnt touch it.
SR: cant reach it! gota have someone sit on the bike to get to the clicker. or use a tie down over the seat to compress the rear. they kinda blew it there. could use +2 more clicks for giant rockers. but its a good compromise when scrambling over rocks seems to track well so its a trade off.
once ya get it dialed ya really dont need to mess with that anyways. less is more here.

if you have some wonky carb issues bogs and such or suspension ? hit me up.

get excited about it. yer gona dig it big time. oh so big time. best play bike ever. and it freakin LOVES to play hard, and different!

enjoy boys!

Well I just went out to the shop to check my left side grip--And guess what, Not glued on and pulled it off LOL

Thanks for the heads up guys.

And thanks again for all the other info, great site for sure! I hope one day to be able to return the favor to a newbie!!

Interesting about the high float level.... would call for slightly leaner jetting if left that way.
Not all carbs are created equal at the factory.
Different slides sometimes appear randomly, I was just recently reminded.

Tough to go by published jetting on the web when not everything is considered or published.

"Poking around at single track"- would be a good sig line!

My float level was way off too. Made the bike even richer, and it would dump fuel with even a slight tip of the bike.

Dirtdame's carb settings are identical to mine and I'm at 3100 ft. My needle clip is set on the 2nd grove down from the top. I'm running 50/50 race gas pump gas. Very little spooge.