2 things I want to ask my brand new 630 is a bitch to start when cold and when riding along changing down gears she just cuts out dealer said its becasue the engine is new and still tight, I have had new bikes before and never come acrosss this, anybody else had similar problems?
Is your idle set to ~1700 rpm? Are you using the cold start lever and in neutral when starting for the first time? I had similar problems and found that my idle was set to only 1200 rpm by the dealer, that is way too low. This bike has a ton of clutch drag also, so it is a lot easier to turn over in neutral.
Mine did the same thing. Bike is set up extremely lean to meet emissions standards. Only fix was the power up kit.
Three things will help, 1. The power up kit will solve the erratic idle, poor low end response, weak off idle power, hard starting, and general crappy low speed running. 2. Use the idle enrichment lever when starting when cold. 3. Start in neutral. Basically, you're problem can be solved in 30 minutes in the garage for less than 2 dollars. Search for 2200 resistor for the cheap way, which I did and is working fine, or go to the dealership and spend about 50 for the factory kit. We've all been in your shoes. Its an easy fix.
YUP, mine was hard starting. Dealer never told me it had a cold start lever and of course i didn't read the manual. And bike stalled out when i shifted or rapidly decelerated the engine. I put the $2 resistor in and it was all good.
Though this is true, it is not the reason for your starting problems. Dealer was taking the easy out here. On the plus side, most owners, myself included have noticed an increase in power during the first 1500 miles or so it is somewhat tight to begin with. Enjoy your new ride. I'm still shaking my head at what a great deal this was. Such a great bike.
Thanks guys for that advice, idle was set at around 1200rpm and is now around 1650rpm I will find out were to buy a resistor and fit accordingly is this the same as the power up kit?
Yes, but without the plug, and you will have to shrink wrap/electric tape the plug if using a standard resistor. Your other option is to steal the plug from the lambda and solder the resistor in, but then you've scrapped the lambda. Another note, leaving the lambda in the pipe without being plugged in will eventually ruin it.
have you checked the connection of your clutch switch? just a thought but mine used to cut out a fair bit when the switch wasn't connected properly. check it where it connects behind the headlight if only just to rule it out.
Just dropped the bike at the dealer who has spoken to the techincal department at the Husky factory, they have agreed there is a problem and dealer is putting a power up kit on the bike (for free) from a TE 300 its the same part according to them. I am not looking for more power as this is enough for my needs just want a bike which runs. Have to say my dealer (BMW/Harley/Husky/Buell) are good and always try to sort problems out.
1200 rpm and not powered up? No wonder it dies all the time. Power that bish up. Your idle will immediately smooth out and increase. Set it back to 1650 and go riding!
My dealer did mine for free, he asked if I wanted it installed before I picked it up and I said yes, but the kits were backordered, so I rode it in a week later and we threw it on.
All that other stuff helps, but nothing is as dramatic as the power up kit. If you're trying to stay on the cheap, just leave it.
Well, I got my lambda-signal-cheater plug and my lambda-sensor-hole plug for my 630. I'm having a hard time finding the other side of the lambda sensor. Where does this thing plug into the bike? Somewhere under the tank? I also see that there are three part numbers people talk about when discussing the power-up kit: the lambda-signal-cheater wiring plug, the brass cross-drilled lambda-sensor-hole plug, and what's the third item? I've looked around for pics or video of a PU install and found nothing thus far. Any advice would be great!
