I read in the manual that I can expect better performance after the 1000km break in period. Is there an electronic safety built in for this? I find the bottom end very weak on this bike. Thanks.
Mine was like that too. Pretty dead down low and stumbled a lot until I installed the Wuka King at around 1200 miles. Big improvement for me. YMMV.
@NLfireblade, I believe you did your own "dealer prep", correct? I've heard from a few separate sources that part of the very first startup procedure is to start and leave idle for at least 10 minutes, never touching the throttle. I believe this is an important calibration step for the computer. Did you perform this initial idle sequence without ever turning the throttle?
Don't except much even after installing the booster plug (which is a must do) as far a power below say 3000rpm goes. Although with the booster plug installed the bike runs 100% better. Throttle response really does not kick in till above 3000rpm.
It just likes to be spanked! Some bikes like to be lugged around...this isn't one of those. Now it will....you can chug down low...just expect to use the clutch a bit. The bike likes 4500 and above...that's the sweet spot. You'd think with five gears it'd be picky as to which gear your its in but there's where it'll surprise you. It seems happy in a couple....depending on your need for pace. Letting the bike idle awhile seems to help it run smoother. I believe if it's spent time being towed you'd be wise to allow it to idle a few minutes too. I reckon the ECU compensates for elevation changes...gotta love F/I!
The manual is being clever. Yes, you can expect better performance after break in.....that’s because you can then rev it over 5000 RPM IMO these bikes have a weird bottom end. It’s basically dead when it comes to throttle response, yet it will lug and pull more than you think. I did not like mine at first, but I have simply got used to it and I guess learned to ride around it. It does not bother me as much anymore, but it’s still not what I expect from a 650 single.
I don't expect really strong acceleration from this bike. That is not what its designed for. I haven't heard anything about letting it idle for 10 mins to calibrate the computer and I don't really believe it(could be wrong here). The computer should be set up from the factory. I'm just breaking the bike in so I'm staying away from redline of course. I guess all the punch is up top. I will likely get the plug in unit I have been reading about and changing the front or rear sprocket to aid acceleration. I was just surprised at how the bike felt to me after watching the guy ride and wheelie it in this video: View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cpeDCAR0iAU
I agree the 3000rpm is not the sweat spot hate 45 mph roads. Read the motorcycle extremist engine break in. I think it helps to break in right. The proceedure he describes helps learn the rpm curve too. The bikes run really lean and I have heard great things to richen it up in the low rpms and through out the rpm band. Remember the bike also revs to a little north of 8000 rpm so the top end will surprise you when you get there. Waiting for 1200 miles to install the power commander and auto tune
Just got a new new strada (long story but husky came through) and dealer did a dyno break in for me then changed front sprocket to one tooth less. much better torque in low range especially out of first. I am gaining confidence daily and i commute on a lot of 45mph hilly and twisty roads. tried dirt today and realized the abs turn off switch will be valuable. a little higher rpm on highway but lots of power. 57 mpg on my first tank . what's with gas tank takes a lot of strength to get the gas into the bike instead of all over it. deb
Make sure you angle the nozzle towards the rear of the bike, inserted as far as it will go, and slowly pull on the handle to increase flow, instead of jamming it on full bore straight away. I splashed myself on the first fill, but never since
Thanks I have been one of those unsafe fill the bike while sitting on it riders never had an issue on the strom but this one got me buggered. I found it hard to get a slow flow from the nozzle. deb
Can the plastic piece inside the gas tank be removed? Its annoying. My last two snowmobiles had something similar and I removed them. All they did was direct the gas toward the rear of the tank so there would be no splashback. After removing the piece all you have to do is point the nozzle toward the rear. You can see into the tank and get almost another liter in there.
My experience is the TR is the quickest, easiest bike I've ever owned to fill quickly with fuel. Don't try and be easy with the nozzle or the trigger on the Handel. Just insert the nozzle completely into the tank....hit wide open if you wish. Stop at the first auto click...don't try and squeeze more in by topping it off. This has worked for me 100% of the time! I often don't even get off the bike. Many times leaving my helmet,gloves and all gear on....simply swiping a card...choosing the grade and getting fueled up! I love it. It's so much better/quicker to fill than my GS. The gauge is also dead on balls accurate if you zero it out each time. 8k miles. Insert the nozzle as far as it wants to go...that's what most do wrong I believe. Easy as pie!
I found when I got a power commander the bottom end became more responsive. My favorite thing accelerating out of corners while at low RPM, even from around 2000 RPM it seems to get up to speed pretty quick.
Max torque output for this bike is at 5,750r/min. Yes it can. Makes filling a lot easier & quicker. I've had no issues with the gasket leaking fuel without the insert in place. You would want to do this while the gasket is new and still has some compression to provide a good seal.
Here is a dyno graph. I am sure this is at the wheel. I have been looking for one after the power commander and auto tune has been installed to see the difference.
WOW, they did give you a new bike. After the overheat issues I figured you were going to try to give the bike back. Glad to see you back.
