Buddy's 09 SM610 has 11,500 miles, CCT is 11 clicks out. We did the cam chain today and found the original chain is a DID (the original on my 07 wasn't) and that it had barely 1mm of stretch (mine had almost 3mm stretch at 13 clicks). I found it odd. We thought about not changing it, but went ahead and changed it anyway since we had it apart. Comments?
That is kinda weird. Been thinking about replacing mine but I'm at 9k+ miles with 7 clicks out. The thing is, its been 7 clicks out since 6k miles. Wonder if my spring is jacked. I'm interested in doing the manual adjuster. I'll make that call once I replace this current chain.
Hope he didnt accidentally pull it out to 11 clicks and didnt reset it before installing it lol Just saying, I know someone who did that and realized it after I..........I mean he, put his exhaust back on lol
This is really Pic heavy but go to post #15. You'll see the picture of his old vs new. He's saying about 1-2 mm stretch but I guess he was at about 10-11 clicks and also was hitting the reed valve. http://www.supermotojunkie.com/showthread.php?60551-A-HOW-TO-610-Cam-Chain-Replacement I wouldve done the same too if I had the engine opened up already.
It does seem odd that the adjuster was out 11clicks with only 1mm of stretch. Was there reed valve contact? DID chains have a reputation of being quality parts. I replaced a cam chain in a Kawasaki with a DID because I had it apart. Several thousand miles later I'm cleaning the oil pump screen and notice what looks like part of a chewed up CC side plate. So I pulled the side off to inspect the chain and sure enough there was one link with a missing plate that for some reason hadn't popped out yet. Pretty lucky. So anyway, I put the original chain back in and it now has over 35000 miles on it. I plan to change it at the next valve check.
So you're saying the stock chain in his bike was a DID? Do you have a Part # for the chain you guys used? I wonder if I order the stock chain p/n from my dealer if itll be a DID chain in Husky packaging? Also, I thought the Original poster was the one w reed valve damage. I guess it was someone else on the other pages.
I JUST replaced the cam chain in my 2007 TE610. At 10 'clicks' out on the adjuster it was slapping against the reed valve. Just buy the OEM chain. It's only about 60 bucks and because of the design of the cam drive it's gunna stretch again regardless of make. The difference between original and new is quite pronounced. The new chain JUST barely fits over the cam on reassembly. It took me 30 minutes and the help of my house mate, a 20 year prof. motorcycle mechanic. Much cursing!! He was very suprised by the design, being a mainly japanese bike bloke. But now, the motor is QUIET. Noticeably by a big margin quieter. I don't see the point of the manual adjuster. What's that gunna do?? It won't have any effect on the life of the chain, just give you another maintenance thing to think about. On the upside, I decided to replace my piston and valve seals while I was in there. Shouldn't have bothered. At 20 000 kilometers (about 12000 miles) there was still original assembly hone marks on the plated cylinder and there was NO visible wear on the piston AT all. I only replaced d it because I had already bought a new one. B I DID do the clutch cush drive rivet thing. It's a must. My spacer/washers were paper thin and only a matter of time before they let go.... This mod is a MUST.
I've not used manual adjusters myself, but can understand the logic (the logic being that an auto tensioner applies constant force- in the opinion of many too much force- thereby prematurely stretching the chain.) If you talk to DRZ guys they'll tell you their auto cam chain tensioners (the spring within) is absolutely too strong, but I don't know if that applies to other makes (as it would seem reasonable that different manufacturers use springs of different strength.)
He didnt accidentally pull the adjustor out. I confirmed that myself. His engine wasnt particularly noisy either (certainly not the can full of bolts that mine sounded like when i did mine at 19k). And he had no reed valve contact. But 11 clicks out... defo made me go "hmm." As for the part number, its whatever Bryon at Bills sold us. Pretty sure its a Husky part number. I seem to remember some early 610's had "not DID" chains (like mine) and later bikes had DID like his. I just thought it was funky all together and figured id make noise about it and see what folks thought. His valves were way loose though.
Have you seen the spring that applies pressure to the cam chain? Long and soft. Very minimal pressure applied. I doubt very much that it has any effect on contributing to cam chain stretch.
I have seen the ACCT over adjust for what ever reason. Chain slap on overrun or sudden roll off from high RPM under compression in lower gears. ?? Who knows? Once the ACCT advances it can only be retracted by manually. This was a hot topic about four years ago and has been discussed to death.
I've got the bike that had the new chain put in. The Husqvarna p.n. on the new DID chain - 800058541.
Your theory is the more plausible. Even with a "soft" spring, when the chain allows "slack" , for whatever reason/condition, the ACT advances another click and exerts its pressure on the chain relentlessly. With the MCCT, even if the chain does its slappin/slackin thing at certain times, the MCCT stays where it is and doesn't "over advance". I'm staying with the MCCT............YMMV.
