On the way home from work today, the CEL lit up. Bike seemed to idle rough in traffic. Light went off intermittently, but mostly stayed on all the way home. Oil level is fine, bike runs fine when on throttle. Looked at most exposed electrical stuff and everything looks fine. 13,500 miles, Pod modded, cat. converter removed. My only theory right now is that there is possible a (going) bad O2 sensor, perhaps. Nothing else is coming to mind. The nearest MOSS tool I know of near Seattle is all the way in Oregon. Can BMW dealers hook up to the TR650?? Thanks.
Maybe pull the connector off the back of the dash, spray liberally with WD40 or such, check the contacts, re-connect. Sometimes it's just a shoddy connection. No MOSS in WA?? Whereabouts in Oregon? There's some great riding east and west of the I5 (slobber) :-)
I'll give that a try. I'll fiddle with more electrical stuff, too. If nothing seems to work, I'm just gonna pop the O2 sensor out and see if it's bad looking. Bad O2 sensor seems to make sense - the exhaust has been modified and the idle seems a bit rough. The riding has been nice lately. Good weather for trails and such. The only Husqvarna dealer I am aware of is Ride Motorsports and they told me they never bothered to purchase a MOSS tool. Bill's in Salem (IIRC) has one, but that's quite a way's to go on a check engine light. WHY CAN'T BMW STUFF HAVE A BUILT-IN COMPUTER FUNCTION LIKE SO MANY OTHER BIKES? D:
I though dealers were having issues with connecting the MOSS up. Something to do with arrangements/agreements connecting to BMW servers. Has this been fixed?
I don't know anything about the MOSS tool or how dealers have had to mess with them. I haven't really kept in touch with my dealer as I'm somewhat a recluse. :P Wiggled spark plug cables. They seem fine.. I'll unplug them and try to clean the boots out a bit. Do you think after just 13,5k plugs would go bad? I'm also going to try doing a full 'reset' (I know it does SOMETHING as the bike runs differently when I do it) cold start this morning.
yes, the stock plugs have been known to cause rough running. The gap changes over time. you could simply re-gap them, or I recommend putting in the brisk AR10ZS plugs. I don't really think this would cause your CEL light, but maybe. my suggestion is mostly concerning the rough running.
Along with the spark plug change, pull the Idle Air Control motor and clean it. Some have had great results. For the CEL just get some black tape. The GS911 is almost ready, that would be able to reset the trouble codes. The guys down under are working diligently with hexcode.
Turns out you can get your bike checked at a BMW dealer. Same plug. Unfortunately, it costs ~3/10ths of an hour to have it checked and reset, soooo $40USD. It was the Idle Air Control. I'll clean it when I have the chance. It's probably dirty from before I put the pod filter on it. I'll double check pod filter sealing, too.. For now, the CEL is intermittent. Everything else seems fine other than decreased MPG as of late. Seem to be getting around 50mpg instead of 60-65. Again, could be the Idle control. Could also be spark plugs. I'll change them when I clean the tb up. thanks all.
Are there any tips to getting to the idle air control motor? Do you have to pull the air box or can it be accessed without disassembling the bike?
I think Geezer or maybe Magoo (someone did?) did a write up on how to clean it. If memory severs it didn't say what needed to be removed to access it.
I had my bike in pieces when I cleaned mine - airbox off. From memory, I would think the frame would get in the way of access. The unit is on the right side of the throttle body, as you sit on the bike. It might be possible to get to it if you drop the rear sub-frame - so that the front of the fuel tank lifts out of the way where it meets the airbox. If you can't see it from the side of the bike with the right side plastics off, then I would be allowing time to remove the airbox if you are planning a weekend job. If you can get to the two fixing screws, then the actual job is a quick and easy one.
Long, long time update. After having hte bike reset at the local bmw dealer, the bike ran fine for a while. This week, the CEL came on, and it started idling very poorly. To the point that it actually would start very rough and then immediately die without manual throttle input. It was bad enough I had to drive a four-wheeler to work. SO! I've taken it apart, and found just as the previously linked thread did: grime... Grime everywhere! As you all thought, had to drop the rear subframe. Doing so seems to be the step-one of any damn problem/regular maintenance on the TR. To get to airbox, you have to remove gas tank, to drop the gas tank, you have to drop the sub frame, to drop the subframe you have to loosen the exaust and remove 90% of plastics which includes like 16 screws. Simply awful engineering choices were made and/or ignored in trying to achieve a look with these things. Anywho: I'm gonna assume that carb cleaner is perfectly safe to squirt in there. Is this correct? thought I'd use some cotton swabs and carb cleaner to spray it out and get it shiny.. Not sure if I should remove the TB to clean it or not. Probably will, as it's only like two more bolts, anyhow.
Note that you don't technically need to remove the gas tank. Leaving it attached to the subframe is fine and tilting the subframe moves the gas tank out of the way enough to remove the air box. That might be what you were saying, but wanted to clarify.
Yeah, I don't actually remove the gas tank. but if I did, i'd have to tkae the subframe with it, I think. Thanks for the help.
Just took it apart. cleaned everything out. All is shiny and new looking. reassemble, CEL still on. Idles fine. After first heat cycle it has SEVERE off idle tumble. After revving motor, it no longer idles. Will not start without throttle input. I'm beginning to think the part is actually defective.
