1. 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

Chain Adjuster Bolts...are they really needed?

Discussion in '2 Stroke' started by 99WR250, Mar 28, 2013.

  1. 99WR250 Husqvarna
    A Class

    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    1999 WR250
    Other Motorcycles:
    Yamaha TW200
    Broke the chain adjuster bolts trying to move them :( are these really needed? I snapped both heads on the swing arm (right and left side)

    Can I just line up the spacer marks on each side an call it good? or maybe use a temporary spacer while adjusting the chain? I think these bolts may be tough to get out. I tried heat and vice grips with no luck.

    [IMG]
  2. Aviduser Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    BC, Canada
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    08 cr 165
    I would say they are, the motor is constantly trying to pull that wheel forward thru the chain.

    I'd prob pull off the swingarm and soak them in a penetrating oil over night. Cut a slot in the end use a flathead screwdriver.

    Or better yet if you get two bolts and thread them on, then lock them against each other. You can use a box end wrench to turn them out.

    I saw your issue with your fork as well. You're not having much luck I see.

    I think the fork should've been hit with an impact gun beforehand. And at worst you should've only snapped one chain adjuster in my opinion.

    If things are that hard to remove/unthread. They typically require a different method.

    Not trying to rag on you as I'm sure you're frustrated. And it is an older bike so things give out I understand. Just trying to help.
  3. 99WR250 Husqvarna
    A Class

    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    1999 WR250
    Other Motorcycles:
    Yamaha TW200
    Yeah...by no means am I an expert at working on dirt bikes. This is my first bike ....that needed real work done to it. It's a 1999 so I'm sure I'll run into more issues. I haven't even pulled the fork or checked the steering bearing. Still need to change fork oil and service rear shock...but I wanna ride it around to get a good feel for it first.

    I was lucky enough to fix the fork cap (which was actually on my bothers 1980 Yamaha IT250). .... But now onto the next issue with these chain adjusters.

    I agree... I should NOT have broken BOTH bolts. I didnt use heat on the first one...and thought it would do the trick on he second one. I was wrong. So it seems they are quite necessary pieces. I like the idea of using 2 bolts! Thanks!
  4. Aviduser Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    BC, Canada
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    08 cr 165
    Ah i see. I was looking at the pic's and thought "man those 99 bars/steerer look archaic"

    Anyway, happy wrenching!
  5. johnnyboy Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    UK
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    WR 125
    Other Motorcycles:
    TM 250f
    If you own or know someone with a mig / tig welder - weld a nut back on the broken bolt with a good high amp setting then the lot will glow red hot, a little back and forth working will soon have it out, if it snaps off just repeat it WILL come out I have never had to drill one out yet and I have done plenty of um :thumbsup:
    john01 likes this.
  6. troy deck Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Republic MO
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    87 250wr 12 cr125
    Other Motorcycles:
    kx65 ty80 rm80 kdx250
    y
    yes weld a nut to it leave some space behind it let cool a bit then stick a b-day candle in behind the nut the heat will melt the wax and it will seep down into the threads you can try heating the swingarm with a propane torch you want to expand the hole not the bolt then work it outa there when you do chase the threads with a tap re place the bolts with some hi grade stuff like f911 or 10.8 and lots of anti seize when you put it back together and take it apart&re grease real regular
  7. KXcam22 Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Kamloops, BC, Canada
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2011 SM630, 2017 300XC
    Other Motorcycles:
    08FZR6;07CRF450;98CBR900RR;02KTM200
    If you soak them in penetrating oil for a day and then heat the aluminum they should come out with vice grips. As others have said the secret to keeping those alive is anti-seize and quality bolts. Cam.
    ohmygewd likes this.
  8. pvduke Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    ... on the gas...
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    tripple-hondo hoosk...
    Other Motorcycles:
    dozens of them, kicked to the curb
    yup heat/cold cycles with a pencil torch, let penetrant soak in. heat/cold cycles busts the bond in the threads.

    yank swinger, stand on end or in a vice. spritz penetrant. let soak a spell. heat bolt shank with pencil torch (protect alloy somehow)- just the bolt. have ice cold rags handy. slap them on bolt once it's almost red. spritz with penetrant (kroil's awesome). should come out with VG's.

    ive done this on asians and auto's with stuck suspension bolts.
    CelticDude likes this.
  9. dartyppyt Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Illinois
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    17 TE 150, 82CR 500
    Other Motorcycles:
    82 125,250,430&500 79 390 83 250
    Usually, there are holes throughout the swing arm for chain pads, guards etc... use those holes to spray penetrating oil inside of swing arm to soak threads on back sides.
    CelticDude and pvduke like this.
  10. pvduke Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    ... on the gas...
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    tripple-hondo hoosk...
    Other Motorcycles:
    dozens of them, kicked to the curb
    ah- you got me! i totally forgot about the sneak attack from behind. good one D! two points for you!
  11. dartyppyt Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Illinois
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    17 TE 150, 82CR 500
    Other Motorcycles:
    82 125,250,430&500 79 390 83 250
    Yes, your lil rusty! But that's ok, cause ur back and still on a husky!
  12. pvduke Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    ... on the gas...
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    tripple-hondo hoosk...
    Other Motorcycles:
    dozens of them, kicked to the curb
    :doh:

    baaarooop!

    :cheers:
  13. john01 Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Powhatan VA
    Yep you need them. The trick like johnnyboy said welding a nut onto the remaining piece works. Just take a nut thats large enough to go over the threaded end, put it so you can fill about half of it in with weld, have your wrench ready, and start removing it while it's still hot. I use my mig welder for this kind of stuff. Good luck.
  14. Ruffus Husqvarna
    AA Class

    If you weld a nut to it (easiest solution) let it cool down before trying to remove. It would be a good time to soak it with penetrating oil. Trying to remove it as soon as it's welded can strip the threads on the aluminum swingarm. The aluminum expands in all directions, including towards the bolt actually making it tighter. When you get the new bolts in there, don't be shy with the anti seize.
  15. Motosportz CH Sponsor

    Location:
    Vancouver WA
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2021 TE250i, 570 Berg, 500 KTM, 790R
    Other Motorcycles:
    many
    Exactly.
  16. Darkside Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    SF Bay Area
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    none left
    Other Motorcycles:
    beta, ktm, aprilia
    I've found that by welding a nut or another bolt on the end, they come out almost by hand. Can't explain it, but I can spend days trashing a bolt trying to get it out and then finally welding on a bolt because I've buggered it up so bad and after it cools it practically comes out by hand. Done it half a dozen times now. Next time I should remember to go straight to the welder, but I won't. I need a few days of frustration first to remember.
  17. makazica Husqvarna
    B Class

    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    none
    Other Motorcycles:
    KTM

    The heat from welding frees up the threads.
    I found that spraying the thread generously with WD40 and than heating it also helps...