Chains - what's good?

What's a good make/model of chain to run on these old bikes? My 420AE needs a new one. Recommendations?

Good read, I still like the old D.I.D VM gold chains though (gold chains look better), you usually can get them for pretty cheap off Ebay compared to other gold o/x-ring chains, they last plenty long (as does the gold plating) on street bikes as well as dirt bikes.

I am cunfused. I am running a 520 did (black chain) on my '71 400. I run the same on my '77 Bull.. The Husky chain was what John LeFevre sold me. I was also talking 'chains' with the guys at a local shop where my Bull is getting some work done (seals/electrical).
the local guys told me Not to use 'o' ring chains in the dirt because of dirt being trapped and premature wear.

now I was reading on another forum, that 'o' ring chains are the best for dirt..

what is it?

I had an O-ring Renthal chain on my 1984 CR250. That was a really good chain that certainly seemed to be very strong. I recall it did not need to be adjusted anywhere near as often as the non-o-ring chain I currently have on my YZ125. It was twice the price mind you.

I will be getting another o-ring Renthal chain for my 390 rebuild.

"Murph"......

but even the above article seems to suggest that 'o' ring chains collect dirt... so for a dirt bike seems like we are doing exactly whats proscribed

Chain and sprockets

The most important question???? Is normally you would want to replace both sprockets and chain as a set. Even semi worn sprockets will cause any chain to wear quickly.
Now you can debate what sprockets last longer, but in any case try to replace all as a set.

Most anyone that has ridden in the dirt for many years will tell you that a “O” ring or “X” ring chain is better than a standard chain.

I get a warn and Fuzzy feeling with Tsubaki “O” ring, even though Tsubaki was made in Japan and the last chain I purchased was made in Taiwan? Out sourcing at it’s best

If, as many people have felt a money crunch the last several years, I have had friends try Distributor brands of “O” ring chains ( Pro Sport ) with good luck.

PS: I recommend the cheapest light duty chain, Kmart oil and 52 PSI front and rear tire pressure to all my competitors

Terry

Agreed, there is alot of BS to go around.. I had a few guys tell me 'o' ring chains KEEP dirt out. While others including the article above claim that o-ring chains collect dirt......Additionally I believe that replacing the chain, sprokets etc is the way to go. Yet I put a new DID chain on my 33 yr old Bull ...w/o replacing the sprockets (the Joresa was 'tired')...and the sprokets were still in good shape

i believe the o ring chain will keep dirt out until the orings start to perish and let dirt in. Which means in the early life of the chain they are much better and when they wear out they are no worse then an ordinary chain.

i use RK racing chains personally, havent tried anything else

The chain and sprockets are the hardest working of all consumables on your bike. With regards to service life and cost it should be viewed in the same light as tyres.

Here in Africa our conditions and terrain are about the worst and hardest wearing imaginable, thus we look for performance at relative cost efficiency.
I only ride 500 2Ts and 510 4Ts which relates to at the least modern 450s in terms of wearing consumables. My friends ride 3Hunnies and 450s, and some of these guys easily clock 600hrs per year of serious territory.
This is our proven solution to the issue;

1) Conventional chains are only good for track and MX where low mass, inertia and rolling resistance are the factors.
2) Lubrication by syrupy aerosols and waxes only attract dirt and become grinding paste in no time at all. Wash bike and chain with degreasers after each run or weekend out. Run till dry and apply WD40 or equivalent as lube.
Its the rollers and pins that wear out so apply WD40 to inside of chain while somebody turnd ths wheel for you.
3) D.I.D o-ring costs $100 over here and is a very good chain.
4) D.I.D X-ring gold anodized is the bees knees, but at double the cost.

Hope this helps

For what it's worth here's my take.
I use a high tensile strength non o-ring chain, yes I have to adjust it about every ride and I spray it with the goopy sticky chain lube. But it's cheap and I can have multiple chains for different gearing combo's.

I may be wrong but it seems I remember reading somewhere that the resistance in an o-ring chain sucks around 5hp. I know it's a significant amount.

No chain goop here, I use Dupont Multi-Purpose Dry Teflon lube on street and dirt bikes, goes on wet, ends up as a dry lubricant (for those that have'nt heard of it/tried it.) Self cleaning, dirt and grit is shed as it builds up. Explained better and well rated on various MC sites. Look it up

I use synthetic Chain Guard (crystal clear)..lol no colorants (is that a word?) added to the grease