250-500cc Clutch cable

09 wr300=Can someone tell me what the length of the stock cable is? The one on my bike is too long. My adjuster is maxed out and there is still some play. Drives me nuts. Gonna order a custom cable, but not sure which length i need. Or if someone knows of a good alternative option vs custom, that is fine too. I have a motion pro on there now that I ordered as a stock replacement.

Get a replacement nipple and solder it on a further down the inner cable cheap fix, you can get screw on ones that use a grub screw.

could have been built incorrectly
after all humans make them
read on here someone said to adjust the clutch then adjust the lever, i have had good fortune on mine so far so not sure
and i also have the Motion Pro on all my bikes, except my 87 CR250, but it's hardly been ridden

Hey Juicy,
Where do you think I chase one of those things down? Might try that screw on one you were talking about. Don't know if I trust my soldering to hold up under abuse

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=251698222080 thats a kit with an inner wire and several nipples included. Try america
Its simple and a good feeling when it worls right.

Having just done the actuator arm adjustment, I can say it easy and when the actuator arm is within spec, the clutch pull is lighter because you get more leverage. Once you get the 3mm of play at the tip of the arm, then adjust using the cable adjusters.

To adjust the arm: Remove the cable from the actuator arm. So that you don't have to drain the oil, lay the bike on the right side. I found it better to lay it down with handlebar on a work-stand so you can get to the arm to take measurements. Best to have a buddy there to take measurements while you make the adjustments. Then pull the left side cover. Loosen the lock nut, and turn the slotted shaft to get the 3mm play measured at the tip of the arm. Easy. Once you've done that, the arm will be further back (most likely) so it will naturally take up more slack in the cable.

ok, so next problem. My locknut just spins and spins and spins. I took the springs and cover off and pulled out the whole rod assembly and that nut is stuck on there. WTF! I tried wrapping a rag around the shaft and then loosening, no go. And I don't want to just grab metal to metal.
Also, what would keep it from spinning anyhow? it just seems to sit in that center sleeve and it doesn't grab anything.

ok-Need help. Supposed to ride tomorrow and I'm having a bit of a bugger right now.

isnt there an allen socket at the end of the shaft? and a nut? you have to hold the shaft from turning while the nut is loosened, at least this is how it is on my older italian husky..i had to grind/clearance a spare 10mm wrench slightly

So I got it loose, but can't tell which way to turn the flat drive screw to get the arm to move back? Right/left? it doesn't seem to visibly make a difference. Can someone tell me if turn it all the way in will the arm be back as far as it can go? or forward as far as it can go?

my arm on my 99 360 moves over a inch all the way to the kick starter 25mm to outside US
is there a broken part in there?

i noticed this on my 360, theres alot of room for the arm to move like you say...compared to the swede design...i think its normal, as mine mine works great, starts in gear, has no drag, good feel, etc etc.

Really? an inch? I got it sorted for now. enough to ride. But I am going to have to rip it apart after and see whats up. i definitely don't get a ton of movement. Mine drags but not as bad as it did. And I was able to start it in gear.
Sounds like I may have to dig in there. Thanks for all the replies everyone.

On my 09, I have 3mm play at the tip of the arm. To remove the lock nut on the shaft you do not have to take out the springs. Just stick a thin screw driver into the slot to keep the shaft from spinning. From the manual:


Once the lock nut is loose, continue to hold the shaft retainer with the screw driver and use another screw driver to adjust the shaft in and out as necessary:

Thank you! That is really exactly what I needed.

If you do the adjustment Cosmokenney posted, your clutch will be easier to pull and have a cleaner disengagement.

I just looked at the manual again, it says the idle stroke of the arm (free play) with new clutch disks should be 1 - 2 mm. I misread the crazy multi-language manual, and set mine at 3 mm. 3 mm is what the manual says the free play should be at the control lever. I may go back in and try to get 1 - 2 mm at the arm. Considering that I did the actuating arm mod, I want as little free play that I can get.

I set mine so that the cable pulls the lever arm at the case through 90 degrees in it's stroke. This gave me the best feel and lightest pull.

AND if all else fails;- [ If you are in a jam]-[or a long way from town]-[or pissed off]=
Tie a knot in the 'free play part of the cable as near to the end as possible.
BOOM. Shorter cable.

Steadydirt...brilliant trailside fix! That would have saved my ride last weekend.