Clutch drag what a drag....

Just picked up a 2013 TE310 with 1800 miles. gears shift smooth when bike is off but its a bit more difficult when bike is running and amlost impossible to get nutral when bike is running. I changed oil and no luck. So I put the bike on stand and put it in first, clutch in and the wheel still spins, i try stopping it but I can't. Any idea what could cause this? I just re bleed the master cylinder but i read something about the rod being mushroomed but mine looked ok.

I believe the clutch is dragging and thats why I have increased difficulty changing gears when bike is running

Been wracking my brain around this lately also. It's a huge issue for my bike. I've tried everything except rebuilding the master cyl. I guess that will be next. If that doesn't work I'm going to buy an auto clutch.

I so far tried:
Back bleeding system
Removed slave cyl and bled it in my hand while tapping it with a wrench
"Burnished" clutch by abusing the hell out of it
Tried multiple oils and levels including 0-40
New o ring in slave cyl.
Installed spacer nugget into slave cyl end to give more length to the pushed rod assembly

Could be the oil ( i use rotella t6 5w40 in my huskies) or maybe the clutch basket is grooved and not letting the clutch plates move like they should.

Also I just bought a new yz250fx and i am having trouble finding neutral when running. hopefully when i change the oil for the first time it helps.

One small trick, move your clutch further inboard. This will give you a tad more purchase (longer pull).

Right, have you striped your basket down and made sure the grooves inbetween the friction plates are there?
Scrape any crud out with a tiny flat blade screwdriver.

With cover off does the clutch move the basket when your pulling it?
Tip on bleeding and hydraulic lines make sure the kink in the line is not above the master cylinder, I tape mine down.

And had the bike been stood for a while? My mates beta was stood for a month come to use it and its fully engaged, had the grooves in friction plates full. Spend an hot cleaning it out and we got the clutch back.

Good luck.

take almost all the free play out of the lever (you need at least a tiny bit to expose the relief port in the m/c)... this will give you maximum piston travel (which ain't much- hence your problem; mine too btw). or get a m/c with a bigger piston, if it exists. (or a slave with a smaller piston- even more unlikely)

try Mobil 1 0-40 ...it could help.

put a clutch kit in mine and filed the clutch basket - new springs and plates in the kit seems ok easy job - now finding neutral with the engine running and it is not driving forward when in gear with the clutch in.replace the gasket on the clutch cover its easily broken.

Im going to pull the clutch cover off and check basket, to see how things look. but if that looks ok, does any one know how to maybe shim the Slave to the rod to make the stroke longer?

What kit did you use?

what is a spacer nugget and where can I get that or do it?

I probably could use a kit with plates and new springs as well. Amazed at how much clutch use these bikes withstand.

I have found that this happends when the sleel plates get burned. Some no longer separate from the fiber plates causing a drag. Like when you stick two smooth surfaces together.

Which is why I ran all of them across fine sand paper on my surface plate to make sure they weren't on smooth or warped. Maybe more grit would help? Or maybe a new clutch?

Hi -i purchased the genuine husky kit - the bike did 7000kms of single track with the original clutch so hopefully all good - two day ride this weekend see how she goes.

Inspected my clutch again today after the burnishing. Several steels were dis colored from heat but appeared flat still. I had wanted to remove that side engine cover to look at shifter parts but one screw was impossible to remove without pulling engine out so I decided to back off for the moment. I feel like if I can reduce the drag factor I would be okay because it seems to want to shift it just can't smoothly with the drag.

Does anyone know which companies offer clutch packs for these bikes?

Maybe I just have poor luck, but every bike I've owned seemed to have trouble selecting neutral when the bike was running, unless I did it just as I was rolling to a stop.

As for the clutch dragging, that's a different story.

Regarding the spacer norma stitz mentioned, I just installed a Rekluse in my FE350s. I had to use a spacer on top of the throwout in order to prevent the clutch from dragging. The adjustable slave cylinder wouldn't give enough gap to fully disengage the clutch.

hinson racing has clutches.

Unless the bike is walking away under your weight in gear, clutch pulled, I am seeing perfectly normal events described above. I think your finding a problem, like wacking open the throttle on the stand and having a bog, that just doesn't apply while riding. Clutchless shifting should be easy, just preload the shifter and time a throttle blip off.

Are you wearing MX boots or shifting in sneakers?

Neutral is elusive when stopped and running in all of these and the KTMs too. Its gine and normal. Grab N while coasting or after you shut down.

The stroke is determined by the volume of fluid pumped by the lever, not the length of the rod. So to get more throw you need to either have a larger master cyl, smaller slave cyl, or address some fluid bypass leak or something that's reducing the volume pumped.

However, if part of the stroke is wasted taking up uneccessary slack in the system, then a rod lengthened might help. I tried placing a tiny hex nut in the end of the rod inside the slave and it basically moved the slave back about .100" it didn't help my clutch drag, but it did seem to move the disengage point a little further out. This led me to believe that my problem is not related to the clutch stroke.