Clutch Fluid & Blow Off Tube Leak 14 TE 310 R

Clutch fluid is low but have no idea where the leak may be. All looks dry with the exception of the top and chain side of the flywheel cover which is moist. Dirt has collected at the clutch piston assembly. (Used synth chain lube until last spring. Changed to chain wax then)

In addition, the blow off tube is leaking at the head. I do not see a trail from it to the flywheel cover.

Any ideas on the clutch leak and the moist flywheel cover?

Does the blow off tube elbo just pull out then replace the o-ring?

After adding Dot 4 fluid place the diaphragm in the master cylinder or in the cover first then attach the cover?

Yes, this is the first hydraulic motorcycle clutch system I have worked with. How did you guess?

The order shouldn't matter- whatever works for you.

blow off tube? the crank case vent (on the valve cover)? yeah, it's a push fit IIRC. the hose could be leaking because you have oil on the top of the fitting also. And it could be a valve cover leak too.

are you sure this is not the infamous grommet leak that xlites have? (the rubber grommet that the wire go through to the flywheel). if so, clean it up; goop it up with silicone.

slave cylinder: you don't really want brake fluid in your crankcase. I do not think brembo's have a big problem with this.

Yes, the vent tube/blow by tube from the valve cover to the frame. I'll try pulling it straight out.

Now that you mention it, I remember a grommet leak thread. Just tried searching, will try again. Seems like common clear silicone caulk was simply placed all around the grommet at the flywheel cover without removing the cover.

Still don't understand what the deal is with the clutch fluid. With the diaphragm removed the fluid is below the 4mm from the top of the reservoir spec

well really- as long as the relief port was not uncovered... you're okay.

so did you ever lose your clutch? are you continually having to refill the reservoir? if so (and you're putting the reservoir cap & bladder/diaphragm on correctly) and you do not see any leakage, I'd guess your slave piston seal/o-ring is bad.

gently tighten the banjo bolts. maybe rotate the copper washers; or anneal them if you see signs of leakage. Inspect the length of the clutch hose.

clean all the oil around the suspected leaks (brake cleaner) and go for a ride. inspect afterwards to determine where (and what) the leakage is.

Thanks. Have not needed to refill the reservoir before. Got most of the goop off with dry rag, toothbrush and qtips. Will finish up with brake fluid. I don't believe the brake cleaner will harm the flywheel grommet. Will go light on the cleaner. Hope to take her out this weekend and see how things pan out.

Tip TY used to make a replacement elbow for the black heads because they leaked too.
My 2010 has a zip ty on it.

i don'y know if the Zip TY elbow fits the red heads. It looks the same to me.

Most Clutch fluid leaks occur at the slave cylinder and leak into the engine. Yyou never see it.

I have the ZT elbow on my 13 redhead.

Good tip regarding a clutch slave leak draining into the engine, thanks. No problems with the fuel elbow leaking. Have not yet tried removing the vent tube/blow by tube at the valve cover to check the o-ring. Not knowing for sure if there is a clip on the inside of the valve cover or if it just snaps in.

Was not talking about the fuel elbow.
Zip TY makes a head breather elbow, it fits tighter than stock with two o-rings.
Stock one pulls right out and has only 1 o-ring.

Will check out the head breather elbow. Thanks for the info on removal of the factory unit

You are going to have to yank it.

if may fit loose but it be hard to pull out.