Guys, hi, please throw in some opinions on my problem. My 630 SMS 2011 with 11kkm on it doesn't want to do a wheelie with a clutch on 2nd gear after 30 minutes of ride time. Instead it launches straight forward like i'm sitting on it front and trying to win the drag. Yet i don't feel it is a clutch slipping, its more like a somewhat soft lever release. Its always easy to do a wheelie on 2nd gear at any revs (i got stock sprockets). A simple burp of throttle with a clutch drop would easily bring the top up. So what bothers me is that things are totally okay for the first 30 minutes of ride. Then no. When i start i usually warmup on idle for 2-3 mins, then i do a soft ride for another 3 (mostly to get away of my neighbourhood) and then do crap. As an experiment I also tried not doing crap for the first 30 minutes - been doing a boring calm ride with minimum clutch usage. And after 30 mins same problem - no wheelie on 2nd. Points i'm thinking of: - Switching to another oil. I'm using Ipone Katana 10w50 from the very birth of the bike but now going to try another oil. - Bleeding the hydraulic clutch line. I got that well known Magura leak issue which i didn't bother to resolve by replacing the main piston. Instead i check the oil level and washclean my gloves every month - And finally opening engine case to check the clutch internals. Yet the fact that its happening only after 30 mins makes me think its not the clutch plates issue. Cause the engine with all its internals is getting to its working temp in 10 minutes max... Any other ideas i'm missing? Thanks for any in advance
I'm sorry I can't help, but I was wondering if I might be able to ask you a question. When you talk about the "Magura leak issue", what exactly do you mean by that? I noticed the other day that right by my clutch perch there is oil that builds up there, it must be leaking but I don't know why. Is that what you're talking about or is it something different?
Bleed your clutch master. As the clutch plates wear, the master takes in more fluid. If it backs up, you end up slipping. I bleed mine every 1000 miles or so due to the symptoms you describe and it's taken care of it. Just wrap a rag around the reservoir and crack the two phillips head screws loose until fluid oozes out under the lid. Give it a few seconds then tighten them back down and wipe up the mess.
Shit, if it's that easy I'm going to give it a go tomorrow if the weather permits. Thanks for the tips!
Also, to the problem bac is having, when the oil in the slave/line gets hot, it expands and gasses a bit, making the problem worse. So try the bleeding, and if that helps, but not for long, you may try insulating the clutch line. make sure it's not zip-tied hard against the cylinder or the head anywhere.
Just went out and loosened the screws, nothing was happening at first but when I looked a little closer a little oil (or whatever it is) did start to ooze out, left it cracked for a few second and then tightened it back up, wiped down the mess and I think I'm done. I'll see if I notice any difference when I go for a ride in a little bit.
notoriouz, the magura clutch issue is a common problem of 630 assembled in '10 and '11. Do a search on '630 clutch leak' for some reading. Many wrote that a master cylinder repair kit doesn't fix the problem and Husqvarna dealers replace the whole thing with a new one under warranty. Thanks for the input, everyone. I checked the oil in the master cylinder reservoir and noticed it's not transparent blue as a fresh mineral oil (i'm using Vitamol V10 from BMW dealer) but kinda greyish black. Is that okay or its a sign of an engine oil getting into the hydraulic line? I've read somewhere that an oil contamination by an engine oil is possible through a faulty slave cylinder.
