125-200cc Cr/wr parts on sms

Hello guys just purchased a cr brake red cover off eBay to find it's far too small

Iv also purchased a cr-wr rear break lever for my year which hasn't arrived yet

Do the sms and cr run different break set ups?

I would not think so yet during the years there are some differences
my WR has different rear master cylinder and some minor tweaks are made between the different years when i compare it with the SM
the WR is from 2002 the SM is from 2011

which year is your ride?

I do have some part manuals and its a good way to compare the part nr's there is a lot the same yet some fundamental differences between the models

brakes are only during the age different so far I have my information

Robert-Jan

I have a 2007 sms and purchased a brake tea cover for that year on a cr/we model

But the cover is a fair bit smaller then mine is

That's the item, on the box it states the model number mfbc-03 and beta red

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=251721126907

I got one of those master cylinder tops and it is different on the wre, didn;t fit at all, now I have a wr master cylinder and my caliper running together, it looks like the apico cap would fit it but I've lost it somewhere [the wr was a 2006 being broken] Seller also has a back brake from the same bike which looks almost idential. Only diffrence I can see between the two bikes was the wr's front caliper had a wire built into it, to probably activate the rear brake light, I got rid of it and used a hydraulic pressure switch instead, works much better and more reliably. The newer sms and onwards bikes I cannot be sure on

the master cylinders are different from the SM and the WR in the part manuals yet on my WR and SM they are Identical just checked it

Robert-Jan

How annoying! I could always fit a wr res assuming it uses the same banjo fitment as the am shouldn't be too hard to obtain or if any U.K. guys have one I'm all ears

put two vids up for you, shows my standard wre back brake and the wr master on the front with the wre caliper, they both use banjo bolts I think theyre called 3/8ths? Front one of wre original I can't find but it had a screw in hole for a microswitch to do rear light, wr has none so works hydraulicly, you can see the switch in the video as the whole banjo bolt ends in it,


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22akvXKdCn4&feature=youtu.be

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a5VE2w6pKZI&feature=youtu.be

I hadn't even thought about the lack of brake light switch! Hmm these huskys are a pain in the ass for parts I was told cr/wr plastics fit from the same year

However having had a quick look at the rear fender it doesn't have the cdi mounts Id imagine the sides with fit but it looks like il have to home brew a cdi mount

your cdi is in the back?? Mine is down in front of the cylinder

There's a large controller on my rear fender it has a holder etc Iv added a few pics of the bike. Iv just ordered a brand new power valve controler for the husky from eBay aswell 8-)

Under the front of the clocks are the green rectifier I belive? The cdi is under the seat on the rear fender and Iv taken a pic of the engine area so you can have a ganders

I see it, your oil tank and battery location look identical to mine, I think the green thing [recitifier?] is down by the engine too, my voltage meter is on the left hand side of the frame up front. I see how you mean about the rear fender, that's how my 07 rs was, mounted back there, cos yours is so bulky I'm not sure where else you could put it. I would get a universal battery holder off ebay, perhaps you could mount the new wr/cr rear fender, then those wires, could you run them underneath the subframe, through the new fender and bolt the box onto the subframe so it is above the rear wheel? As the wheel won't come right up and hit it unless you bottomed it out over a massive jump. Or see that space to the left of the battery? If you took off that side panel, could you not hang the box down there besides the edge of the air filter? one like this but perhaps bigger

oh also you still seem to have a thermostat and thermo hose attached, if yours ever breaks you can also use a cr/ wr cylinder head on it and run with no switch

Ah good to know

The cdi shouldn't be too hard to fit! Your right it's just like an rs with the cdi being so big. It's a pain in the back side not being as popular and easy to get parts as the cr/wr models

it's annoying to get parts at best main dealer, I ordered a new gear shifter and 5 weeks later it turned up, it only had to come from italy/ sweden! I had bought a used one by then. Shame cos 2 strokes teach you so much as a rider and the oil tank/ pump was a bonus idea, so much easier than premixing, now ktm took over husky and the new road legal 125's are all premix, just the same as the ktm exc's, not even sure they'll do a tuned down street legal version for learners, it'll all be 30 hp plus. Plan for mine is fit this new piston providing it's the right size, see how long my oil pump works and then put a venhill single action throttle cable on, no more oil pump, also want to spray the wheels properly blue. You can thank the EU for even making the bikes have a cdi like that, all about emission control! My 07 rs was properly shit, beautiful thing, but the pistons kept going, the water pump impeller blew apart, the rear shock snapped, the throttle cable snagged and I had to push it thirteen miles home [no breakdown cover, bad idea] and because of emission aprilia did the cdi so it would bog down below 5500 rpm, and the pv opened at 6, so riding it was continously like torque ok here we go, wait, bog bog, bog, come on! bog! lets go ok here we go vroooom vrooom! oh a corner, out of power, bog, bog...I had no idea about jetting back then but I'd have put on an arrow pipe and got the thing sorted, anyway I swapped it for a cagiva w8 2 stroke, same engine as mito, BIG mistake, it was worth maybe a third of my rs's value, and two weeks later the bottom end seized. Had no bike at all then, sold that for spares, then 2011 bought the husky with 5000 miles on it, best bike I've ever had I'll keep it even after it implodes and is beyond repair. I got it stuck down a byway in mud as deep as the top of my boot last xmas, had to leave it overnight but the next day freezing cold it started straight up! I also rode it for 160 miles in 4 hours, didn't miss a beat

Iv had 2 new shape es 125s

I made both full power and never had any of your issues 8-) pv opened at 8k as it should and mine didn't have the environmental dip at 5.5k

I also fitted a 34mm carb to my 11 plate and an arrow pipe for fantastic results! Infact in fp I still did 11k on one piston and rings and had 103 on the clocks 8-) loved it but it just wasn't the bike for counting 15 mins to work on

But hopefully once Iv sorteted my husky issues out it will be far more fun to ride then the rs 8-)

Rather then make a new post ul ask here

I have one of the fairing bolts in my tank stuck! The bolt and but just spins

Is it a better ide to sinply pull th but and bolt out of the tank or use epoxy whilst it's in place and let it set ?

I have tried to pinch the bolt and unscrew the bolt with no lick so far

do you mean a side panel bolt is stuck in the fuel tank slot just turning around?? I had that on my rx50 if so, I got thin nose pliers and squeezed the bolt head yanked it out, then got one of those little recangle shape metal things, with a hole for a bolt on one side and the other is like a hole going down into an end so when you bolt it it tightens up? I pushed one of those back in the gap on the tank then screwed a new bolt into that instead, still held as it was bolted in the other end of the panel, if your bolt is still stuck you could try getting a really tiny drill bit, then slowly drill into the head for something more to grip?

your brake hose looks weird the way its been mounted... i would assume it should be rotated by 180degrees...