125-200cc CR/WR/WB 177

Ok, it is actually 176.6 cc's. 62.00 x 58.5 mm. Got it together with amazingly little heart ache. The cases had to be enlarged just a bit to give plenty of room but other than that very straight forward modification.

How does it run......Who knew 12 cc's and 4 mm of stroke could make that much difference. I only have a couple of heat cycles and about 10 minutes of riding on the motor and it is a keeper. If anything it is smoother than the 165 with immediate torque and pulls hard to sign off everywhere. Pulls the front end off the ground through the first 5 gears just banging gears. I wasn't trying and was sitting virtually on the tank. It isn't even broken in yet. My digital rpm gauge was reading slightly over 11.5 K rpm just running it through the gears no holding it wide open in a gear. This is definitely an improvement in top end and my port timing with this kit is quite a bit retarded.

Some details of the kit:

Crank was stroked, trued, and balanced for a 4mm gain.
Installed Micro Blue mains and new seals.
Installed a .040" spacer plate with .028" of gaskets.
Machined the other .030" plus squish dimensions out of the Head.
Cylinder used was a WRE/SM 125 cylinder(Thanks John! I knew I would find a use for that cylinder) that comes with an oem 3mm retarded port timing. This allowed me to raise the cylinder and still maintain 1 mm of retarded timing. With a standard cylinder I will be adding a spacer plate to the head and cutting o-ring grooves in the head. This will allow me to not have to advance the port timing so far on the oem cylinders and maintain essentially the same number of degrees of opening as stock. Will gain even more top end than my current configuration of slightly retarded timing.

I built this kit on the request of TNTTimber and installed the WRE/SM cylinder for my own benefit. He will want the oem cylinder with its more aggressive timing. The issue is that I don't know that I am willing to pull this motor out and part with it. Sorry Nate, I can't help it. I will start building another one immediately.

A couple of things that might help others with crank issues. When I installed the main bearings I kept them in the freezer and then applied just a little heat to the case insert. They almost drop in with out having to do any work with the press. I then repeated this by freezing the crank and applying only a warming to the bearings with a heat gun. The crank slipped into the bearings very easily. No side stresses were exerted during installation. I am sure this is fairly common practice but just thought it would be worth repeating.

Just when you thought its the max reliable squeezed out the next mod comes along

How do I explain my wife that this stroking action is a essential maintenance task for this motor

Micro blue bearings i have already in the full engine (and I am convinced they are the cause that the engine is revving quicker up through the range)

is the head mod the same as is done for heads adapted for crappy fuel conditions?

the spacer you mentioned would that be a metal milled one?

Robert-Jan

The spacer will be an aluminum milled piece. It will take a couple of extra steps as I will be cutting in o-ring grooves in the head but the chamber itself will be enlarged the same as the crappy gas heads with a bit more space created.

I really need to get some actual mountain riding done with the kit. Too bad there is 7' of actual snow depth where I usually ride and more coming every day.

Nice!

That is pretty funny especially considering from a bed ridden comedian.
I think 210 though because of the all Italia origin.

I think a 175 or 180 sounds good. I wondered where you were Walt - you've been busy. Id better start saving then .

4mm wow i cant believe husky left that much room in there! what is a micro blue bearing are they ceramic ? what this gona cost? man this is gona be a monster thread

oh, man. i'm drooling already... what pipe is on for testing?

the micro blue bearings can be ceramic but also steel with a special coating.

the end result is that these bearings have less friction then conventional ones.
with my last overhaul I replaced all the bearings (except the shifter bearing ) with these bearings and the response of the engine is quicker in reving it up through the range

theoretically the fuel efficiency should also be improved but putting the lectron on it there is no direct comparison made from my side with only the bearings different.

Robert-Jan

I think any 200 pipe that is currently on a WB165 tested will be perfect.

the difference between pipes will only be "where do you want to have the gravity of the power delivery".

Robert-Jan

Let me know if you need more cylinders Walt
Now please tell ! is the stock rod used and a offset crank pin or is the crank modified ???
I WANT I WANT I WANT ONE NOW
More info needed ! Got a crank and cases here in front of me right now begging to know what going to happen to them.

Walt, You are a Wizard.
Thanks for the mods that keeps these forgotten Huskys top tier. Rich

yeh 180 sounds good I reckon, something different from the norm. sounds like an expensive episode for anyone overseas. man I only just paid for the 165 & now you pull this caper on us

If you can stroke the 165 kit this would be good. Is that what you are looking to do Walt?

why...why when I just think I found the end of the rainbow (165 kit), you tell me there's something better at the other end (177).

i hate you

I think that's what he did. It's a 165 with an extra 4mm of stroke. 62mm piston x 58.5mm stroke = 176.6 cc.

Holy crap. This is becoming a pretty big little engine haha. That's awesome, a giant killer.

Robert-Jan, I used the coated steel bearings. The 125 huskies tend to get very long life out of their standard bearings and figured the coated bearing would just enhance that. The crank people told me that the husky 125 uses the same size bottom end pin that most 250's use- 24mm vs 22mm for most 125's. I don't have any information to back this up but it would explain some of the longevity we see.

As soon as I get a break in the weather I will be doing some back to back testing of 165 vs 177. I will use the same exterior parts on both...lectron carb and 200sx fatty. My little ride said that the longer stroke helped it pull farther in the rev range and harder everywhere. I don't know that it would be worth the extra $$$ to gain this as it is going to be quite a bit more expensive and more labor intensive by double. My first reaction is that I will want to use a mid/top pipe with this mod as the bottom was instant and aggressive but there was no let up and it just kept exponentially gaining though out. Less bang when the power valves opened as it was pulling so hard before. Had a very smooth, but aggressive power delivery.

Just to clarify this is the stock 165 kit with the crank stroked using the stock rod offset and other minor mods to make it work. I am going to see the guy with the water jet CNC machine today to get a head spacer plate created so I can also run the oem WR/CR cylinder for comparison. It will end up being ~1.5 mm more advanced on the port timing which isn't a huge difference but will create more top end with the ports being open for longer duration.

Give me a little time to try all the combinations and I will report back.

did micro blue make up a kit for you or did you piece out somewhere else did you go full ceramic or coated ?? details RJ we want details