125-200cc CR144 Flywheel weight, Rekluse or both?

Yeah I love riding my 2010 CR144 but still could use some help in the woods. Would a flywheel weight help mellow things out and keep me hooked up better? If so, how much weight should I add? How about the Rekluse clutch? Seems like most folks love them but should I do this with or without the flywheel weight. Any advice along these lines greatly appreciated as I am an admitted novice.

Thanks in advance!

I have the 08 CR 165 and I recently installed the Rekluse EXP and it's so easy to ride in the woods it's like cheating. I'm more of a MX rider but the Rekluse has me riding in the woods more and more now. I don't think there would be any need for a FWW with the Rekluse. I picked mine up for $375.00 and IMO it's well worth it.

Thanks John! Maybe there is even some advantage to the lighter flywheel with the Rekluse? Did you purchase direct from them or another source? Cheers!

I have a WR150 with the larger flywheel ignition and wouldn't go to a lighter one. I am not a fan of auto clutches. You have to use the clutch so little with this bike anyway.

Interesting. Anyone know the difference in weight between the WR and CR? I don't mind using the clutch but would like a little more traction and stall-prevention. Thanks for the input.

Your are in luck
I have my wr flywheel off and doing the cr swap
It's .4 kg Or nearly 1 lb heavier than The cr flywheel
It's double the size

You are welcome pedalpro. I got my EXP through a local parts/repair guy for $375.00. I don't use my clutch at all unless I'm starting the bike and that's just to make sure it doesn't take off. BTW I have had many full lock the rear stops with my EXP and the bike has never once cut off. It's a baby tractor with the EXP and 165 and a rocket with the SmartCarb. I'm 53 and slow as crap through tight woods but with this combo I'm getting better and faster . Seems like the faster guys don't want or need the auto clutches (like my son) and the older slower guys like me love them.

I agree with John 01, I have been running Rekluse's since 06 and love them. I just installed on on my wife's 2012 CR125 and was amazed at how much better and easier it made the bike to ride in the wood and hills. Just point and shoot no stalling.The benefits of the auto clutch far out weigh the benefits of a fly wheel weight.
Tim.

Wow! That is amazing how much heavier the WR flywheel is than the CR. Sounds like the Rekluse may be the best cure for what ails me (lack of skill)! How does the Powervalve spring mod work? I really like the way the bike rides and can ride the track better than any bike Ive ever owned but Ive never mastered steep slick or rocky hillclimbs wet roots etc and look for help in maintaining traction and momentum. Thanks again for all the info. Love this site for that. I could read these forums all day!

Think of it this way as well...
If you put in the Rekluse, there is nothing saying you can't take it out later. I put one on an 08 CR125 and really enjoy having it. The manual clutch was light to pull, and nothing really wrong with having it or using it before the Rekluse. But for me one major advantage of the Rekluse is for the tight switchbacks I ride on the trails around me. Being a short rider, dabbing a foot down doing a switchback would make me tip one way or another on the bike, then fanning the clutch to get just enough power to chug around the turn was really tough. I'd slip it too much, or stall it, or stretch myself trying to keep the bike upright while my foot slipped and dragged next to me. Yes, I practiced staying on the pegs, different hand positions, balance drills, etc etc etc. But I'm not racing, I'm not a hero, and I just want to have fun. After the Rekluse, I ride so much better. No fear of stalling lets me stay on the pegs and chug it around the turn, and twisting the throttle makes the bike go. Simple, effective, and fun. In fact, I've ridden so much better since the Rekluse I took it out once and tried several trails again using the manual clutch, and it felt like I had improved immensely. I put the Rekluse back in because now I am trying hill climbing with "baby heads"... loose rocks that when your rear tire rolls over them they spit out from under the bike but also stop the momentum of the bike going up the hill. I'm am doing much better learning how to handle these with the Rekluse, and someday I'll go back to the manual clutch and I bet I'll handle them even better then, too.

I have the EXP. It does make my clutch pull harder than the manual, but I rarely need to use it except for starting or occasional clutch fanning. Roughly $400 MSRP is a lot of money (for me at least), but I've gotten all that back with the satisfaction of riding trails and areas I struggled with before. For chugging like you say, it is a good option. And the Rekluse has 3 settings to modulate how the clutch engages: immediately, a little bit of rev before engagement, and lots of rev before engagement. I have mine set on the "immediate setting" and it reminds me of riding my XR50R pitbike... just roll the throttle and the bike goes. Roll off, and the bike idles just fine. One side note: when I've gone down long hills, as my speed increased the chain would feed that speed back to the motor by revving the motor up. But at least on my 125cc, when that engine speed goes high enough to engage the clutch again, my bike has so little engine braking that it hardly does anything to unsettle the bike. I could see, however, how on a 4 stroke that same situation could make the bike buck and nose dive once the motor starts engine braking. Good luck either way (FWW or Auto Clutch).

Great reply edmoto.

I've found that going to a oring chain on my 165 feels like adding a 16 ounce ffw.

If I didn't tell you my bike had a Rekluse EXP, you wouldn't know. (except for the fact you can hammer the brakes w/ no clutch, find traction anywhere, never stall it, and push easily walking beside it). If you have $375 you don't like, there's just no reason to not put one in. Still allows the bike to feel lime a crisp 125 if needed, unlike a flywheel to degree...

Thanks again--great info. Guess I know what to ask Santa for! Hehehe hopefully he has a couple left cause they sound like a popular item!

That makes no sense ? No measureable amount of drag between a warmed up Oring chain and a good Non Oring chain. A big difference if the non oring chain is worn out or dirty. This has been measured on a dyno. No measureable difference in power. And a Non Oring chain isn't light enough to make a difference in moving mass. If there is a difference in weight at all. I believe there will be more difference between brands than between Oring and non oring.

I've read your posts before regarding your opinion of oring vs. Non oring and I disagree. The chain itself is much heavier than a non oring chain, adds rotating weight to the drive train and therefore a heavier flywheel feel to the power spread, have you ever checked the weight of your chains? Look at the pin length on a oring vs non, oring pins are about 20% longer and therefore 20% heavier. I don't know if a warm oring chain has the same rolling resistance and don't have any way of testing this, how have you tested this?

I'm not taking sides on this, but.... If the pins are 20% longer, the the PIN weight is 20% heavier. That doesn't make the chain 20% heavier. Maybe 5% of something... Doesn't take a fancy experiment to test the warm chain. Put your bike on the stand after the chain is warm. Turns FAR easier than a cold chain.

Weigh the chains yourself and tell us the results. You won't believe me unless you do. We did this years ago when racing for Team Suzuki Offroad. Big difference in a warmed oring chain and a cold one. Years ago there was an even bigger difference in a broken in Oring chain and a new one. Such as going up a dirt road hill and 100 miles later going up the same hill 2 gears higher. Modern Oring and Xring chains need far less break in than the early Oring chains. Basically one MX practice and the chain is broken in and it doesn't take more than a 1/4 mile to warm a chain up to operating temp. Anyone who says different is just going by wives tales. Like getting a power increase from going from a 520 chain to a 428 chain. Maybe a slight difference in weight but the 428 will have more moving parts for same length chain. So where would the power increase come from. I think Krause Racing made a lot of money selling to the gullibile public with this idea.

Ok I weighed them, both same length DID, x ring in 8 ounces heavier, add in the added rolling resistance (you say it doesnt exist but we will need to disagree) and you get the effect of something that feels like about a 16 oz fww. Just sharing my personal experience with the specific bike in question, do what you want.