Hi all, been a while since I’ve posted. Just on an overnighted to Hill End and bike won’t start after stopping for coffee in Sofala... I’m not getting any power to the dash. When I turn the key there is nothing. I do get power to the headlights. The tachometer needle seems to have stuck at 5000rpm and hasn’t returned to zero. The tacho plate appears to have bent a little and In wondering if the heat of the sun whilst parked up has done something. I disconnected the dash and something is rattling around inside it. Didn’t take it apart as don’t have the small torx spanned on me. I’m getting roadside assistance to take me home to Sydney. Does anyone have experience of a failed dash and the replacement costs / recoding to ECU and ignition (assuming that the dash has failed) Meanwhile, I have 6 hours in a very hot Sofala to wait for the pickup truck... :-). Thanks in advance
... took the dash apart whilst waiting for roadside assist. The rattling was just a loose bit of black plastic from a screw mounting inside the dash. Checked all the fuses and they look fine. Is there a way I can determine if the dash itself is faulty, or is something else is the cause. Horn and lights work. Indicators don’t work. No light or any activity on the dash at all
the stuck needle is a little strange but i'd check for broken or chafed wires and loose plugs/connectors and properly test the fuses or just replace them. Fuse 1 (7.5A) controls dash and indicators so that's a likely candidate i'd say but you need to find the root cause if it blew.
Thanks. I’ve checked and replaced all the fuses, though the battery has fully drained so I’m wondering if there is a short somewhere, and whether that has affected the dash. So I’ve now got the battery on full charge and will try and find the source of the drain on the battery. Though the dash complexity failed whilst I still had fill charge as the headlights were working fine with the key turned on in the ignition, even though there was no power to the dash.
How old is the battery? A Battery with a bad cell can really catch you out. Did the headlight die when you hit the starter? Did the horn sound bright and normal? The dash may have low voltage protection. First things first, have your battery load tested.
Just had a mate with a brandnew Tiger (3 weeks/ 1400km) which showed the exact same symptoms. Turned out to be the plug into the instrument panel had come loose (sloppy ex factory!) and the 800 Tigers are the same setup as the TR with their split dash/ ECU setup, where one will not work without the other being matched +alive. I'd check the connections carefully. Unplug and re-plug anything dash-panel-related, maybe with a good "bath" of WD40.
I checked the battery and that is good. I checked for any drain and there is a 0.5amp drain on the fuse 6 circuit which is the instrument panel and the antitheft. If I disconnect the connections from the ignition, the drain remains, but as soon as I disconnect the instrument panel, the drain stops. I'm not sure if that means there is a short within the instrument panel itself? I just took the instrument panel all part though I have no idea what I am looking for and am not sure I'd be able to see anything anyway... but for those who have stumbled across this thread and want to see what the dash looks like inside... and where those brittle plastic buttons are below the M, S and hazard buttons... here are some pictures. I have asked the Husky dealer for the price of a new dash but I have a feeling it won't be cheap...and I gather it also needs recoding to the ECU and ignition...
When you turn the key do you hear the fuel pump run and the main relay energize? If not I would try running a jumper from the negative battery post to one of the ECU cover screws. You can search for my thread here for more info. ECU issues/ground strap
Thank you for this. When I turn the key, there is no noise from the fuel pump or the main relay. The headlights come on and the horn works but there doesn’t seem to be any power elsewhere. I will try running a jumper tonight when I get home - thanks again for this suggestion.
I run a jumper from the ECU to the negative terminal but nothing happened when I turned the key, except for the headlights coming on. No fuel pump or relay action and nothing on the dash. Everything’s just dead :-( Not quite sure what to try next...
Okay, so you turn the key and the dash doesn't boot but the headlight comes on. The headlight is connected to the +12vdc (battery +) thru F2 when the key is turned to the on position. This is normal and should eliminate the key switch. Now the dash has two +12vdc power sources, one constant and one thru the key.The constant +12vdc comes thru the main 30 amp fuse then F6. You should have +12vdc at the dash connector pin 12 to ground (pin 14) with the key on or off. With the key on you should have +12vdc at pin 13 to ground (pin 14) thru F1.
Thank you - I've looked at the wiring diagram and - being colour blind - - enlisted the help of my teenage daughter to help identify the correct wires. Before I do the tests, would you mind checking the picture I have attached please - I've labelled which wires I think are 12, 13 and 14..
Thank you. For those that may be following the thread, Here is an update on things. With Mysery1’s guidance, I have tested the pins on the connector to the dash and established that there are no opens on the circuit (continuity at pin 14), and that there is 12V at pin 12 (with ignition off) and pin 13 (with ignition on). I’m now going to do some investigation relating to pin 6 and have also reached out to my local Husqvarna dealer to u derstand what the cost is to replace the dash and presumably also have it re-codes to the ECU and ignition....which I gather is going to be $$$$.....
Hi Mysery1, I have the same problem. Dash not booting up, even with power on pin 12 and 13 to 14. But the circuit board is corroded at the back. Saw it after I opened the goddamn thing. Will try to upload the pic. Looks like water got in there through the M-button. The rubber fell off when I opened the dash and turned it upside down
