Did my first tire change

Discussion in 'Common Items on Husqvarnas: Tires/tubes/grips/etc' started by mikebru, May 12, 2013.

  1. mikebru Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Ocean County, NJ
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2009 WR250; 2012 TE449; 2005 TE450
    So I did my first tire change by myself. Have only been riding a few years now and always had the shop do the few tires I've replaced.
    I chose Motoz Tractionator Enduro soft front and rear with ultra heavy duty tubes. Thanks Marty at BRAP Offroad and Kelly for the referral.

    I did ok. I went by a Dunlop YouTube video. I found out today I guess I pinched the first tube I did for the rear tire. It lost 7 psi overnight so I guess i will be replacing again. Should I patch the tube or replace it?

    My biggest problem was setting the beads on both tires. Each time there would be a section of bead on each side of the rim that wouldn't seat. It would be buried in the rim. i used tons of soapy water, spoons, but eventually got them on after fighting for a while. I pumped them up as high as 35 psi to set the bead.

    What was I doing wrong? Am i the only one having these problems? Safe to patch the $37 tube or should I replace it?
  2. JasonfromMN Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    MN
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    None right now :(
    Other Motorcycles:
    2013 Yamaha FZ6R
    I personally just replace the tube. Makes me fell better. You definitely do need to over pressurize to seat the bead , then adjust for proper riding pressure. That and- the more you do the easier it gets.
  3. oregonsage 4st Clerk

    Location:
    Dry Washington
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    FX450
    Other Motorcycles:
    Yamaha DT400 x 2, BMW G310R
    I replace the tube, then patch the other one and carry as spare.
    Indorider and DTX915 like this.
  4. HuskyDude Moderator

    Location:
    BC, Canada
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    13/TR650
    Other Motorcycles:
    10/EC300, 76/TY175
    I wouldn't have a problem patching a tube...be doing it forever.
    I watch a copy of tire change vids and this is pretty well what I've been do'n.
    At the 1 min. mark I catch the tire spoons under the disc. Helps free up your hands when moving to the next spoon location.
    And on reassembly I add baby powder to the inside of the tire. Also once the tube is in place with the valve stem out I add air to the tube to make sure there are no folds.
    Making sure all the air is out you can set the last bead of the tire.
    I also use soapy water not windex.
    A must on anodized rims are the rim protector which didn't last long for me so I made some out of 3/4" Pex water pipe that I split (Make sure you finish with the number you started with):D
    And the Bead Buddy works well on those stubborn mounts but not needed on all.

    How to change a motorcycle tire
  5. Mike-AK Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Alaska
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2012 TE 310
    Replace the tube. Next time inflate and deflate several times at slowly increasing pressures. This will allow the tube to find its place within the tire without pinching itself between the bead and the rim. The last time inflate it a little above the pressure you want to run and deflate down to that point. Patches are a fix to get you home until you can replace the tube. Replace it with a HD tube.
  6. bdl507 Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    New Hampshire
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    99 wr360
    Other Motorcycles:
    rd350 dr650 tt500 pe250 hondas lots
    I use wd40 on tire installs and If the tube isn't between the iron and the rim and you don't bring the iron past 90ยบ when installing tire you can not pinch the tube
    Motosportz likes this.
  7. Swampds Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Sarasota Florida
    Take the valve out when you seat the bead.
  8. duggoey Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    NSW, Australia
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2010 TE 310
    Other Motorcycles:
    KTM 690, Yamaha WR200, FGS650(800cc)
    Using ultra heavy tubes are harder to replace than light duty ones so you probably had a "worst case scenario"
  9. KXcam22 Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Kamloops, BC, Canada
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2011 SM630, 2017 300XC
    Other Motorcycles:
    08FZR6;07CRF450;98CBR900RR;02KTM200
    Rather than soapy water, use liquid dish soap full strength. Put some on your finger and lube the bead. This type of soap has two actions. It is a superior bead lubricant and then glues the bead in place after it dries. Every glued a bar of soap to the counter? Works very well. Some heavy carcass tires can be harder to seat the bead than others. Changing a tire is not hard to do and practice makes it much, much easier. I will have to watch that video and see it they are doing it right. There a couple of small tricks that make tire changes much easier. Cam.
  10. mikebru Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Ocean County, NJ
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2009 WR250; 2012 TE449; 2005 TE450
    HuskyDude likes this.
  11. Motosportz CH Sponsor

    Location:
    Vancouver WA
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2021 TE250i, 570 Berg, 500 KTM, 790R
    Other Motorcycles:
    many
    make sure it is not your valve core leaking. I have removed tubes only to find it was the valve core, EZ to check that first.
    HuskyDude likes this.
  12. mikebru Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Ocean County, NJ
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2009 WR250; 2012 TE449; 2005 TE450
    I think it was the valve core on the rear tire. It held pressure today.

    Now my front was low this evening. Tightened core and aired it up and will check tomorrow. Hopefully all is well.

    Thanks again.
  13. Radar Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Southern Nevada
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2012 TE449
    I never use HD tubes I think they are a PITA and add unnecessary weight. I have never had a flat in thousands of mikes of desert riding.

    Now I will probably have a flat tomorrow. I do carry a spare tube.
    HuskyDude likes this.
  14. duggoey Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    NSW, Australia
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2010 TE 310
    Other Motorcycles:
    KTM 690, Yamaha WR200, FGS650(800cc)
    I prefer hd tubes for changing if in an ideal environment like workshop but keep the light duty ones as spares know the pack for when riding.
    Motosportz likes this.
  15. HuskyDude Moderator

    Location:
    BC, Canada
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    13/TR650
    Other Motorcycles:
    10/EC300, 76/TY175
    OK... am I the only one that uses patches in the field? And really only for the front. I've ridden most of the day with the rear out of air...but the front is a little different.:D
  16. OlderHuskyRider Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Austin, TX
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2010 TE 450 - last of the ITA motors
    Other Motorcycles:
    Kwaka KLE, HD FXDWG
    Some of my practices based on what I've read here, just the stuff that works for me:

    I never pack a tube that has a patch, I've done that before and the patch will not survive in the pack. A patch has the greatest chance of staying on when it's installed in an aired-up tire. I always run my patched tubes and pack my new tubes.

    On the trail, I always try to patch a tube if possible, saving the new tube in the pack as a last alternative, like in case the running tube gets ripped beyond repair (see pic below).

    I don't use HD tubes, I get the cheapest tubes I can get, $15 is par for what I like to pay. I've run one rear $15 tube with 3-4 patches and a rusty valve stem for over 1 year and about 6 tire changes before it got retired from a split under a patch (see pic below).

    I quit using Slime, I never had a puncture fix itself with Slime, and the Slime hinders my patching.

    I use good quality bicycle patches with feathered edges, I've had the cheap patches get peeled up from the side.


    [IMG]

    [IMG]

    [IMG]
    Radar likes this.
  17. Motosportz CH Sponsor

    Location:
    Vancouver WA
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2021 TE250i, 570 Berg, 500 KTM, 790R
    Other Motorcycles:
    many
    I use patches, never had a problem, don't even bother replacing the tube when I get home just ride it til the tire is shot and change it then. Never had an issue. Also you can patch a tube without even taking the rim off the bike, lay it over, peel one side off pull the tube, find the hole patch it and stuff it back in. The hard part is trying to get the bead to seat again. It usually doesn't but has never seemed to be an issue.
    HuskyDude likes this.
  18. HuskyDude Moderator

    Location:
    BC, Canada
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    13/TR650
    Other Motorcycles:
    10/EC300, 76/TY175
    We can't be the only two doing this.:excuseme:
  19. KXcam22 Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Kamloops, BC, Canada
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2011 SM630, 2017 300XC
    Other Motorcycles:
    08FZR6;07CRF450;98CBR900RR;02KTM200
    I use patches. Generally I replace the tube with my spare if I use more than 2 patches. Then the patched tube is the spare. I have never had a patch fail. Actually I haven't had a flat in years. The patches mostly go on my friends bikes. Cam.

    ps I once had 17patches on a tube. That was when I was first learning how to change tires and hadn't learned what tire irons where. It was screwdrivers or nothing.
    Xcuvator likes this.
  20. Motosportz CH Sponsor

    Location:
    Vancouver WA
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2021 TE250i, 570 Berg, 500 KTM, 790R
    Other Motorcycles:
    many
    Usually takes about 60 PSI, will not hurt anything.