DO I NEED A FLYWHEEL WEIGHT ON MY CR150 OR AM I JUST BEING A WUSS?????

At the advice of my dealer I bought a new CR150 instead of WR150. My wr150 practise bike I feel like a hero on and my CR race bike I just can not connect with the thing. The power on it is incredible and it feels a bit stronger then the WR (4th gear wheelies EASY) but in the woods this thing is a handful. The thing comes on so hard between 1/4 and 1/2 throttle it is hard to control!! I'm a pretty fast A guy. Would a fmf spark arrestor help over the stock moto muffler (Looks like same stock muffler as WR has. What about and 8 oz flywheel. I may have to race my practise bike if I do not figure this out pretty quick. It just hits to hard to control the thing and yes when you do stall it it is abrubt!! Any suggestions would help

I am a less than A guy and I do not feel the need for a weight. The power should be very linear. Maybe some jetting is needed? If you have to you can retard the timing a couple degrees and it takes a lot of the hit out. I did not have the CR ignition when my bike was fresh though so maybe a tight motor stalls easier?

that wild huh, there was a kid out here riding a 2010 around when i got home but they left before i got back out of the house. im goin to have to see if i can ride it if he comes back out.

I should probably fiddle with the jetting, but every bike I have ever bought from Halls has always been spot on.

Make sure it is a 150 and not a 125. Let me know if you get to ride it, thanks.

Many that ride 250\300\360 machines in the woods and ST, short shift them to avoid this issue ... A 150 may not have the torque to pull in a gear higher than it should be run in at a lower RPM than expected though ....

I short shifted my 02 CR 250 some but never really liked 4stroking my 2T ... And I even rode using the following technique on ST trails where speed was not too much of an issue: I'd leave it in 1st and just top it out and when I could not keep up with the gang, I'd shift to second ... the motor was spinning at such a very high RPM that the change to second was really just a change in the speed and not so much a jump from engine .... This would work in 1st & 2nd but when you top out 2nd gear and go to 3rd, its a little hairy ... 4th and 5th do not apply here

You could try a gearing change also ... This might be interesting as if you gear it up, you can stay in your present gear longer but you loose torque at lower RPMs up to some point in the RPM range ... It you gear it down, you gain torque and this might could make the issue worst unless you short shift (and more torque is what you want to short shift and run the bike in a higher gear at a low RRM)...

My self and speaking for your case and your case only, I would not look to de-tune the engine other than to many move more torque to the bottom ...

PS -- I wish the 150 engine would fix in my 08 TXC frame :0)

im hoping they come back and ill let you know but it may be a week or two before i get a chance to ride it if i dont see them tomorrow

I don't think so.... Not everyone is a CR rider, I know I'm not. Engine may need some more break in and jetting, but you have a direct comparison. I was prepared to buy a CR in '09, if Husky didn't import WR's... but it was going to get a flywheel or WR ignition. for sure. They used to say a Steahley Gas Gas 125 flywheel will fit, or maybe Hall's will give you a deal on a WR ignition. Go with what works for you.

Steahly makes a flywheel weight for the 125/150. I have one and it is a nice setup.

Most if not all riders who have the FWW, like them apparently ... I purchased one for my CR and the company sent me several nuts that were the wrong size so I never got it bolted to the bike ... If you go the FWW route, you will have to pick a weight size next ...

I think you guys are on the right track! Halls said they would trade me ignitions, but the digital ignition is better then the analog, right? And the WR does not quite hit hard enough. I think Halls told me the Gas Gas setup works. I love the power just need her a little tamer. I think they said 8 oz. I will order tomorrow and check it out. I was so upset I almost jumped ship and bought a new Gas Gas!! (but my son said dad how the hec can you do that when you have Husqvarna socks

Socks?

Are you going to have it together in time for Huntersville next weekend?

I put a 12 countershaft sprocket on mine and it enabled the bike to be lugged around in second gear which took away some of the hit. But make no mistake, the CR will suck the stickers off a WR no matter how you detune it.

I have played with the timing on my 09 CR recently and it has a noticable affect on the hit, I like the hard hit for getting on the pipe when coming out of a turn without much run-up to the jump, but that same hit might be a hinderance on acceleration bumps coming out of turns and off camber corners, the back end can get real nervous and loose, hurting the drive.

Oh yea!! It will be together and have a steering dampner and my other forks should be back with lighter springs! I'm in the MOOD!!! But since Husky pays $300.00 for 1st place in vet A and only $200.00 in senior A (must not care about us old guys!) My 46 year old A__ will be running Vet A! Last year at Mora and Akely on my 150 (only had it 2 races) Netted me 11th overall and 12th overall!! Just gotta work the bugs out in the hard hitting engine then should be fun

I also run a 12 tooth on my CR and WR and yes the CR feels like it will smoke the WR!

stalling is caused by rear brake application w/o the clutch fully in 99% or more of the time.

FWW WILL give you more [[traction]] for a given conditions. that's about it. and that's a good thing. the more grip there is the more traction you'll have.

if there aint no grip at all the FWW will help you get a little more drive but pilot input is still CRUCIAL. whiskey throttle = wheel spin at the wrong time no matter what.

a FWW WONT do jack diddly for stalling. you could have a frisbee sized FWW on there and the back wheel locking up would still kill the motor. once the back wheel stops spinning, the engine is DEAD- unles you got your finger on the trigger.

learn to stay off the back brake and use the left lever to mimmick a slipper clutch on decel and you'll never stall it again. i promise!

and have your finger on the trigger all the time where it belongs so you can mreeeeeeeeeeep! at a moments notice. your finger should be on the clutch 110% of the time, never ever off it, and it should be slipped 99% of the time both under accel and decel and why?

its a 125 (or 150 whatever) mreeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep!!!

I killed my 125 about 20-30 times last weekend, mainly due to long moto format and broken motor mounts caused my hands to go numb last couple laps each moto, rendering my front brake unused, and i was all back brake with lousy clutch control. Compresion started everytime, even when almost stopped. I couldnt pull that stunt with my 250F I think a FWW would be neat to try in the afternoon durring the summer to keep from breaking loose on sunbaked hardpack. Have you tried running the 13T countershaft? I run 13 on my CR with 52 rear and i think i am going to step down to a 51 to get more speed out of 2nd, and to settle the bike down in the acceleration as the faster gearing will work the motor slightly more.

Ben,
When are you going to mount up the 144 kit? Should help with everything you are describing. Nothing like more bottom/mid torque to hide clutching issues.

Nice!

I will be there too, in Vet B. This will be my first Enduro...