aiming this opinion question to the east coasters/tight trail brake draggers. I have fresh Motul600 with Brembo sintered metal pads, insulator pad and backing plate installed. When I do the really twisty stuff I still lose my rear after 10mins or so. after staying off it for a few minutes it comes back fine. I will also do a full check of the master cylinder (seems fine, but maybe with fluid heated way up it bypasses?) I also run the extended reservior to increase fluid volume. I am thinking it really is just the pads getting slick when heated way up. Thanks R
The sintered pads (metal) cause more heat than organic but I run the semi metallic on the rear and braking organic on the front for better feel. Once you boil them once you need to get all the fluid out of the caliper by opening up the bleed screw a good bit and then pushing back the pads. If it boiled once it seems to boil again a lot easier. Maybe someone else will have a better answer, I am not a huge brake dragger. My TXC 250 I have noticed I can get it hot enough to start making that chirping noise in a long section now but have not boiled it yet. I do change my fluid often though. I like the looks of that pad cooler radiator but concerned about it getting hit in a fall.
I have been boiling brakes since they went to the smaller rear caliper. I am a brake dragger and we have 8-10 mile steep down hills here. I am consciously working on using the front brake more now.
I run Moose organic rear pads and Motul DOT 5.1 fluid with good luck. You will replace pads more often..... I've never used a reservoir extender, but thought the caliper banjo bolt finned cooler looked like it would be better (Closer to the heat). Pad cooler radiator looks hazardous for eastern woods!
for S&G* I just ordered the Slavens in line caliper cooler, figured why not every bit helps. (plus its a movable mod piece). Jeff Slavens has a good rep for making well tested bullet proof stuff. (it should fit the Husky Brembo caliper of the same design) http://slavensracing.com/products/brakes/brake-caliper-cooler-ktm-husaberg
Rob, Thanks for finding that. I couldn't remember where I saw it. I'm going to order one myself and do a reservoir extension for "S&G*"!
You might have something there ... I've used 2-3 different pads and with the same fluid and have different results on brake boiling ... I'm using PROX sintered pads (http://pro-x.com/eng/default.htm) now and they are working very well ... Even when wet, they have a firm grip and do not lose much braking power... I might even save the ones I have just for the track because them stop me so well and use some cheaper ones for the trail rides... But, the first set on the front went out so fast, I think I had some caliper issue with the front sticking so the vote is still out on them ... The rear is holding up AOK... RockyMountain sells them also ...
I ride HARD and am a fast A rider (top 15 overall most the time) With stock pads or any sintered pads, yep brakes gone quick!!! My riding style is a little strange I NEVER use the front brake!! I rum EBS semi metalic pads (the red ones) And with this setup NEVER have a brake problem even in tight nasty (I really meaqn nice!) singletrack! Give it a try, I bet it will work!
fletch thanks, those are the pads that were suggested to me from one of our crew that is a full on brake slide rider. I will give them a shot ( I think I have a set of EBC reds stashed in my spares). nasty=nice agreed!!! will give those a check this week before upcoming enduro. these type correct? (I see Randy Hawkins mentioned as a user, enough said) http://www.ebcbrakes.com/motorcycle_brake/sintered_brake_pads/carbon_mx_tt_pads/carbonmx.shtml
I'll second that. I use EBC carbon pads with Motul 600 and it's much better than sintered metal pads. Best combo I've found.
one set of FA368X EBC red carbon pads in the house!! Thanks Cafe crew. Also using the newer Motul RBF660 dot4. System has ZipTy reservior volume extender as well. (Slavens inline caliper heat exchanger on order will wait until after this weekend to install it). Will also pop the master piston out and verify the piston seal, this is my second master cylinder, first was nailed by a rock, cylinder dented and pushed into the swingarm (but thats another story).
Yes, if you have boiled them a lot then you may want to replace the piston seal. If I go to the trouble of taking one apart I just replace the seal.
Thanks to you all!! This is the best forum for REAL world info for great sources. Rode and finished the enduro yesterday (lots of vid was shot so later you guys can see our southwestern twisties) I used the EBC reds with all newly bled in Motul 660 had no issues all day!! no time to work the master cylinder piston seal (but it really is due) Found that Yoyodyne supplies brembo moto stuff along with all their car stuff. (see the other thread in the racing section for race details) Fans of our brand, our presence is really growing, lots of Huskys back in the mix, just like the old days!!
The Motul 660RBF is the difference maker. It's a must if you race. And bleed replace often, I do mine every race. No sense in letting a bottle of that sit around as it absorbs moisture from the air over time.....that's why they sell it in small bottles. That stuff is expensive but worth every penny. I'm actually switching to a solid rear disc for the next race since I bent the bejezus out of my stock one at the bootlegger enduro a couple of weeks ago. Will be interesting to see if I notice a difference since I haven't had a solid rear rotor for a few years now.
I'm game... I ordered some Motul 660RBF today, as the shop only carries Motul 5.1 and will try some EBC red pads. I have to mic the rear rotor, might be time for a new one.
My rear brake set as of now, just installed the Slavens brake caliper heat sync (need to bleed again).Also need to readjust my hose loop up front, because the heat synch adds almost an inch. I have convoluted nylon tubing over the brake hose loop for the engine case chafe point. Motul RBF660, EBC Reds, ZipTy reservior extender, OEM floating Braking wave rotor (slotted type from '10 model if I remember correctly), ZipTy brake pedal tip as well. Done (just in time to get a 310!!)
rode hard with KTM 300XC A rider on Sat morn, and rode hard with Husky TXC511 AA pro yesterday no brake issues at all. system is fully operational and fade free. smilin now!!
