Hello guru's Recently I took the leap into the magic world of fuel injected dirt bikes with my 2010 Husqvarna TE450 that uses the MIKUNI D42 EFI throttlebody. I guess I was somewhat naive about the benefits of EFI over traditional carbs, thinking that out of the box it would perform perfectly without the need for carb mods to prevent bogging and get throttle response bang-on. After just 2 rides I can see there is still a place for tuning though. So I have done some reading, but thought a single "beginners" thread might be useful. So any help/advice/opinions would be welcome. From what I have read, there seem to be basic de-restricting mods (similar to carb bikes) that help recover performance lost to emissions limiting devices. In the case of Husky I think they are called Power-up mods and involve removing the oxygen sensor from the exhaust (and adding a jumper to close the circuit), removing the throttle stop from the throttlebody, and replacing the air filter cage so the bike can suck in more air. All of that had already been done to my bike when I got it, as well as the addition of a map switch button that lets me choose between dry and wet maps. What isn't clear to me is whether this is an ignition map, EFI map, or both - anyone have any idea? After the de-restricting mods is where I get lost though. From what I can make out there are 2 main options: 1) Re-program the stock ECU (assumin bikes have Engine Control Units like cars) 2) Add a "piggy back" system such as the Dynojet Power Commander V (and its optional Autotune module - more on this later). These systems intercept input and output signals to/from the ECU to trick the bike into performing better. Similar to the ECU it can be reprogrammed. Within the 2 main options mentioned there seems to be further options 1) Re-program the stock ECU i) Load generic maps - Using the manufacturers ECU software (I think Husky uses iBeat, but there seem to be 3rd party apps as well) simply reflash the ECU with other peoples custom maps. I know this is/was common in car tuning, and can give very good results for vry little effort. Because every bike is different though, it will never get all the performance potential of the engine as it is a compromise. ii) Customise map - I believe this normally involves running the bike on a dyno with specialist equipment to take air/fuel exhaust measurements, power output, etc. I presume it uses the manufacturers ECU software to make adjustments to the stock map. Presumably there is also more complex software that tuners have access to for modeling the maps and writing custom flash files? 2) "Piggy-back" systems (specifically the Power Commander V) i) Re-program map - There seem to generic maps for the PCV as well as options to adjust various "blocks" using the software supplied with the unit. ii) Autotune - Works with the PCV and a wideband oxygen sensor to adjust the fuel mapping while riding. Seems to be something of a realtime dyno. iii) Custom map - Once again, involves using a dyno to customise the map on the PCV. The main advantage of the PCV over re-programming the stock ECU is that to get the bike back to stock all you have to do is unplug the system. Also you can use the same unit on multiple bikes (as long as you reflash it for each bike) So, have I got things about right? Any corrections, additions, or anything? The main problem I have is that when you snap the throttle the bike doesn't react instantly like on a well tuned carb bike. But given that issue I suspect the engine has more to give, which is why I'm investigating the options. The 450 has enough power, but if I can get it delivering the power more predictably and when I would like it, that would be great.
Hello Arctra, I sell both the Husqvarna iBeat Mikuni ECU diagnostic kit and the PowerCommander V. The iBeat system running on a PC and connected to the diagnostic connector behind the headlight allows for 3 fuel adjustment points that represent low, mid & hi RPM. Some people have found that this gives them enough adjustment to get the bike tuned to an acceptable level. This often depends of with model of Husky. iBeat also can perform throttle position sensor(TPS) recalibration along with reading and resetting trouble codes. This can often be performed quickly by a dealer if their not too far away. It's the trial and error test of the fuel setting that most dealers don't want to spend hours doing and the results are subjective to the rider. Your assessment of loading or reprogramming maps into the Mikuni ECU are too optimistic. Mikuni is not very popular in motorcycle EFI, so I don't believe anyone has spent any time to develop 3rd party tools. Husqvarna has switched to Keihin EFI on the 449 & 511. The Dynojet PCV plugs inline to the fuel injector signal and taps into the TPS signal along with a ground wire. The PCV adds or subtracts fuel by increasing or decreasing the duration of the injector drive signal based on a look-up table map. This "base table" is made of ~400 cells of +/-% fuel values. The table is arranged with 10 columns representing throttle % and 40 rows representing RPM's. Dynojet tries to dyno test and make a power map for every bike year and model. The problem can be, that the bike they test may not have the same charactoristic as yours. For example your fuel pressure may be different or the 3 ECU fuel adjustment values may be different. This is where the autotune module can provide real-time feedback that is compared to a user defined 400 point Air-Fuel-Ratio "AFR table". While riding the difference between the actual AFR and the desire AFR is used to automatically over time create a "trim table" that is combined with the "base table" of determine how much to change the injector duration. There are several other features that can implemented with the PCV such as connecting a switch to select between 2 different maps which be used for best power or best MPG. My inderstanding from Dynojet is they are working on a ignition timing module that will plug into the PCV. Here is a link that will give you a better understanding of the PCV... http://www.powercommander.com/powercommander/Support/Help/Index.html http://www.powercommander.com/powercommander/Products/PowerCommanderV/powercommander_v.aspx I have a PCV installed on my 08 TE450 and it made significant improvement in power and increased MPG. I stock the PVC & AT modules. If you would like a quote email me info@semcodesigns.com
Brilliant response! Thank you very much - it explains and confirms a lot. Interesting what you say about how basic the stock Mikuni EFI only having 3 adjustment's - I guess equivalent to setting the pilot jet, fuel needle height, and main jet size in a carb. With the map switch I have (installed with power-up) that supposedly alters the map for normal riding conditions (SEL1) and muddy loose conditions (SEL2) - is that switching fuel maps, ignition timing maps, or something else? And do you know how switching between these maps will affect the PCV adjustments and map switches?
On 08s there is 1 adjustment which richens or leans the whole map- On 09/10s there is 3 adjustments: yes very much like pilot- needle and - main. I was able to tune out stalls and flameouts (too rich on low throttle openings) and added responce at Mid throttle by adding fuel- resulting in more wheelies. Playing with Ibeat can be very benifitial if you also don't have a dealer nearby- as it can be vital to use for diagnostics. If you have a good dealer nearby- let them run Ibeat as needed and get a PCV/AT for best fuel control. I'd ensure you let the bike get broken in before assuming anything- once loosend up things imporove on their own- if tuning is further needed your benifits will be optimized by the bike being in a stable state where 'tuning' has more long term benifits. The "dual mode switch" allows you to switch between 2 ignition maps sel1 and sel2. If you had a PCV fuel map switch you could then have 2 ignition maps and selectable fuel maps form the PCV- I would guess that if you made a map for sel2 with the PCV/AT it would benifit sel2's performance- but then you'd have to hit 2 buttons - sooner or later that will seem stupid. I don't use sel2- I find it kinda useless- takes 3-5 seconds (which feels like forever) to switch Sels. The map switch for the PCV/AT seems pretty usefull. In the end full power is best- use your right hand to maintain control.
like i said to you via pm......DBW take to R&D husky and thay will sort out you efi $ 40.00 once it done you wont have to touch it i would only get ibeat if you like to muck around with your efi as for diagnostics
That is certainly my plan, but that doesn't stop me wanting to learn more about the bike, how it works, how the add-on's work, etc. Whilst I'm off the bike letting my collarbone heal learning about the bike is all I have to keep me sane!
Well, I took my bike to R&D as HuskyBOM advised and they did a great job sorting the EFI out for me. The TPS was way off, so he recalibrated that, and the first third of the CO2 setting (low rpm) was only at 80% which probably explained why i felt the bottom end was poor. After about 4 hours of riding I did not have the bottom end "bog" once - every time I snapped the throttle she jumped, so I consider it sorted now.
hey mate. whate did you tell r&d husky when you dropped off your bike? just had my first service there and found them great. thanks, Enrique sydney
Just told them my symptoms and asked him to check the calibrations out. Nothing prescriptive really, just asked them to work their magic.
thanks Arctra, spoke to manuel and he mentioned that everything was sweet on the bike. hooked it up to a laptop and it's all good. thanks for the response anyway,.. Enrique
hay gooday i no this is a old thread so sorry to pull it back up again great info so let me get this right forget bout changing ecu iv a pcv already so get auto tune for it take it to husky dealer to diagnose and fine tune my ecu and that will solve all power issues i love my bike but find power very tame as iv come from 2stroke 250s dirt to motard i knew issues that these bikes have before purchase so not disapointed love that im the only one in my region that owns one love people sayin how cool my sms is everywere i go but what i didt realise is how hard it is to sort out what i see as simple issues does not help that the only dealer round is a two hour ride away sounds like its worth the trip so id be so so greatfull if you could do a dumies guide step list iv a pcv and fmf slip on already o2 sensor gone so is next step auto tune then dealer
