So my new, to me, 2011 TE630 is driving me crazy with a random stalling issue. It's a bit similiar to this earlier thread http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/630-just-cut-out-for-a-moment-weird.81103/ but I've tried a pile of different IBeat settings to no avail. (100/100/100 to 105/108/120 and a few variations in between). Hasn't helped. it only stalls when I am decelerating and coming to a stop. Sometimes from a high speed run, some times just normal traffic speed. It happens infrequently but once or twice on every ride. The weird thing is there's some sort of high voltage pulse that seems to be killing the bike and is maybe the cause of the problem. I have a Trail Tech Striker unit installed to monitor voltage, speed etc. Every time the bike does it's random stalling it shuts down all the electrical including the Striker which has it's own internal power supply. When it shuts down (abnormally, not from turning off the key or the kill switch), it resets the Striker unit and erases the trip computer, clock, trip timer but none of the "permanent" setting (tire size, units, ODO, etc.). Just the timers that can be reset with a normal long press of the appropriate buttons. The voltage monitor on the Striker never shows anything higher than 14.5V. After it stalls it starts right back up, no coughing, back firing, long cranking. It's like an EMP has hit the bike for one second then it's fine again. I've checked the diodes on the regulator, battery connections, spark plug, as much of the wiring harness as I can without a complete tear down of the bike. I've even pulled the flywheel off to make sure it hasn't slipped on a broken/damaged Woodruff key. The only lead in the repair manual says "ECU Faulty" or "low Idle". Idle is currently in the 1450 - 1550 range. Any and all leads would be appreciated.
I'd try a new voltage regulator. They're basically the same as what a older CBR900/600RR uses (and lots of other Hondas) and not very expensive. Years ago I had a Pacific Coast (same regulator) and the voltage started spiking and would pop headlight bulbs. .
Any advice on which one to get? There's a pile on EBay from China that fit the CBR900 that look similiar. Shipping takes forever and I would prefer to have it in before my insurance runs out in December.
It sounds like a momentary break in voltage continuity - either earth or live. Check the earth contacts at the regulator and that it is bolted tightly and greased behind and also to the starter motor. A battery can also have a loose internal cell that can interrupt continuity. Obviously can also be at ignition, or any connector or in the loom (esp where it bends and has movement like at the steering head). My 2 cents.
So a bit of a bonehead move on my part yesterday, but maybe can shed some light on the problem. After all the messing around and taking shit apart and putting it back together I went for another test ride. Turns out that I had forgotten to bolt the regulator back down and after about 5 minutes of riding the ground came off completely. I don't know why I didn't clue in that the voltage was read about 12.5 volts instead of the usual 14+ volts that it usually does. But after riding for over an hour and watching the voltage drop down to 10 volts I realized (75 km from home) that I definitely had a problem. At that point I was pretty much committed to carrying on. Once the voltage dropped under 7.5 volts the beast finally quit. However, that entire time that I was running exclusively off the battery with no regulator the bike didn't conk out once. I was about 10 km from home when the battery died and I disassembled the covers and discovered my error. I called for a jump start from my son while I re-attached the ground lead to the regulator. After firing it back up and heading home the rest of the way the bike crapped out within 5 minutes. Same symptoms as before; dies then fires right back up. New regulator is now on order. Sure hope that's the fix. Any other thoughts on this layman's diagnosis?
Does sound like regulator as I guessed … may have fried your battery. I would first ensure the battery has a good charge and try again. If not that then change regulator and if voltage still drops then stator not charging. My 2 cents.
I'm guessing if the battery had an internal fault it should have quit once or twice even if the regulator had been disconnected. The fact that it ran perfectly for 100+ km tells me the fault is somewhere between the regulator and the stator, or at least, caused by that part of the bike. Since a regulator is a hell of a lot cheaper than a new stator and wire harness I'll start there and work my way down. Thanks for the advice.
Time for an update. After riding for a couple of hours with no regulator at all (previous post above, DOH!) I completely killed the internal battery on the Striker unit. After I replaced it I continued to ride with the original regulator and had two stalls, but neither event reset the Striker's internal registers (Clock, trip meter, timer). So I think the reset might have been caused by the internal battery being too old when purchased. I'll have to watch and see. Yesterday I gave the bike a thorough clean and today the High Beam indicator light won't turn off. ARGHH! The switch operates the high beam normally, it's just the indicator on the dash that's not turning off. Dash connection to the instrument display is tight, switch has been cleaned and Wd-40'ed. I know these units are prone to failure, but I haven't read of the high beam indicator light sticking on. Is it more likely a failure internally or a chafed wire somewhere in the harness? Today the replacement regulator came in (FYI, not all CBR900RR regulators fit unless they're "modified" with a dremel tool) and after a 45 minute ride there were no stalling issues. I'll try and get out a few more times before my insurance runs out and hopefully the stalling issue will be fixed.
I have a feeling the High Beam light on is a warning signal of a component failure? Would need to check an owners manual - but may be thinking of another bike … Maybe try a battery disconnect and reconnect - may reset it?
Reset didn't fix it. I'm pretty sure you're correct in that the unit is going to continue to fail. There's already a couple of other functions that aren't working so it's only a matter of time before the rest go. My concern is mostly how to replace the Low Fuel indicator. All of the ther functions are replaceable with my Striker unit, if I add the Striker Dash panel lights. I've been trying to work my brain through a thread on the Advrider forum about connecting to the existing fuel level resistor, but honestly, I'm not that smart... is there any other options for getting a Fuel Level indicator or meter?
Has anyone taken apart the dash cluster on the 630? I removed the six Phillips head screw but couldn't separate the two halfs and I didn't want to use my framing hammer to open it up. Yet...
After a couple of days of drying out from my overzealous washing, the High Beam indicator light went back to functioning correctly. Sadly, a new regulator didn't fix the stalling issue. And I've now fried 4 different USB chargers on the thing. They seem to last anywhere from a couple of minutes to a few hours. Does anyone have a lead on some sort of voltage/surge suppressor? This is really ticking me off. If I had access to an Oscilloscope I could try and see what sort of spikes are coming off of the regulator, but my regular voltmeter doesn't show anything above 12-14V. All of this seems to trace back to a relatively small crack in the stator cover that I had repaired. I'd just replace the damn thing with a new one if I thought it was the cause, but I just can't imagine what the connection could be between the two events.
This may sound dumb but I would replace the main ATO type fuses. I had bad ones in my 2011 that gave me issues. Cam.
The charger is connected to a power block that is connected to the wiring harness from the Lynx R fairing. The harness has a relay which is powered from the battery but only turns on when the bike is running. It comes off the stock headlight connector, which doesn't come on until it's running. Would wiring directly to the battery make any difference?
I'll do that right after The Walking Dead tonight. Hadn't thought of checking the individual stator wires. I just checked the voltage out of the regulator.
