• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Electrical Problem

duggoey

duggoey

Husqvarna
Pro Class
My 2010 TE 310 with 3300km on the clock has a new issue :(

Is in great condition but- I have found lately that after washing it the head and tail light will come on and stay on. Even if the ignition and kill switch is off with the key out of the barrel.

The only way I can get it to turn off is to disconnect the battery. I pulled off all of the plastics, tank and seat the first time it did it and blew out all electrical connections with compressed air. Also blew out the ignition key barrel.

The problem only went away after a few days in the shed.

It did it again yesterday after washing. It is strange as i dont use high pressure water for washing, and I've never had any issues from going through water while riding.

Im guessing there is a short somewhere, possibly earthing out? Where is this coming from and how can I prevent it?
 
Fair chance a wire has grounded itself. Id remove all the plastic and tank again and inspect all the wiring for chafes. And/ or, remove all the plastics and tank and blow out all elec connectors BUT use dielectric grease on all of them before assembly. The dielectric grease will repel water on electrical like WD-40 will with metal parts, but better.
 
:thumbsdown: Cant seem to put my finger on it. It is becoming very frustrating.

Due to availability, I used a lanolin based spray (as i understand it should do the same thing as a dielectric grease). I am still finding it shorting out, I cannot find any chafed wires with the insulation worn, no metal exposed, nothing I can see that is obvious.
 
Have you tried disconnecting the ignition switch connector when this happens? I'm wondering if water is getting into the switch, itself.
 
AndrewS said:
Have you tried disconnecting the ignition switch connector when this happens? I'm wondering if water is getting into the switch, itself.
Click to expand...
No I have not, do you mean underneath the ignition/key barrel? I will definately give it a go thanks.
 
Kind of... The wires run from underneath the barrel, but the actual connector is probably behind the headlamp assembly.
 
Just went to start her up this morning to notice a dull "2.2" appear on the dash/display.. then found it (the battery) to be completely dead - wont start as fuel pump cant run. Obviously it shorted out this time without my knowledge.

What is this 2.2 on screen, is it a diagnostic error code?

The bike is stripped bare looking for this grounded wire, but cant see anything! What is going on?
 
After Charging the battery (and the charge held so the battery is good) and leaving it for a week I went for a ride two days ago. I went through some water a few times with no probs, then when I pulled up for a breather I notice the lights to be on, again.. Had to leave it running as to not flatten the battery.

When I got home and turned the bike off and removed the key, I noticed that the lights didnt turn on straight away, they only started a minute or so after the bike was off. They then flickered on/off, and then decided they would stay on.

There was definitely NO water in/around the key barrel or behind the headlight area, and only some slight dirt/mud around the wiring/connections beneath the tank.

help me, this makes me sad
 
Not sure if it the setup on the 310 is the same as the 610, but I had electrical issues with my 610 after washing it. I am pretty sure it was from water getting on/in the dash. Since my dash is in a HDB billet protector I used some foam weather strip from the hardware store to seal the gap between the dash and the protector. I have washed my bike several times since, and have not had any more problems.
Good luck.
 
Could this be it?

I pulled it apart today, again.. I basically did a quick wash yesterday out of left over frustration, when the lights came on again, so I shoved her in the shed, disconnected the battery and sulked (I usually take more pride in it's appearance so excuse the mud in the photos).

Return to the garage today - After covering a majority of the surface area of my bike, body and garage with a coating of spray lanolin I reconnected the battery follwed by some trial and error, disconnecting and reconnecting everything in the hope that the lights would switch off. I looked aimlessly at the wiring diagrams which led to nothing significant.

At one point after staring her down with a blank look on my face I heard the lovely sizzle of something shorting out/arcing, but then it stopped and the lights went out! I traced the sound to the RH side of the battery to where three wires (pairs) end each with fuses, along with an additional pair of wires with a "insulated" cap which contained a diode and a resistor tied together (purposely by the factory?). The heat shrink/insulation was put on poorly and judging by the rust on the resistor and diode water had been sitting in there over time. I tried to simulate a short caused by water ingress by creating a link between the terminals with a paper clip with no success. Regardless, as it was rusty I filled it with more lanolin, cleaned the outside sheath and re-sealed it by utilising the existing heat shrink (as it is a fairly snug fit). I then sealed any pathways for water ingress into this particular area with two part glue/resin.

Even if this hasnt solved this particular issue, I may have solved more potential ones (see images) I found the outer insulation to be worn in a few areas. One being to the first of two relays on the LH side of the frame underneath the tank. Second being the insulation for the feed into the fuel pump. and a third area around one of the wiring looms just before the LH side of the battery (not the main terminals though). These were all patched up with a substantial amount of electrical tape.

I will find out if this was "the issue" (meaning current issue) the next weekend after riding and washing.

1st Image - Loom on LH side of Battery
2nd Image - Electrical feed to fuel pump
3rd Image - The rusty area containing the tied together diode/resistor (Culprit?)
 

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When you added water around the diode it did not do anything because fresh water is generally not a good conductor. However when there is sufficient corrosion/rust particle buildup with water in contact long enough to create a slurry, that is conductive. Once it dried, adding fresh water in does not cause a short until it has time to make a slurry again, and land in the right path also.

One of the first things with any bike I touch is to do a thorough inspection with tank and covers off looking for any potential abrasion and slicing vulnerability. Where it is presses, rubs, or crosses a sharp bracket, you have a potential trouble area. Been burned too many times by putting this activity off on new (and older) bikes.

My first trip out on my new-to-me 2006 TE450 was the last time I got caught. Went for a quick first trail ride, went through a deep mud puddle, stalled it just after. It lurched and I realized the starter was running on it's own, who knows for how long. Blamed it on the mud puddle causing a splash and water short. Got out of the tight spot and had to pull the seat and the main fuse to kill the starter. Turns out the starter switch has a wire under the tank near a harness fanout and the wire was bent sharply at the bullet connector between the tank and frame, abrasion shorted the ground side of the switch, caused the starter to run on.
 
I picked up a demo 2011 310te last week 800k's. after it's first ride i gave it a light hose to loosen up the dirt, came back from the shed to give it a wash and have the same problem as you with the headlight and break light on, also the dash lights up and reads something like "E43E" also low fuel light it on.
I found that if i set the kill switch to the "on" position all would turn off but would come back on with the kill switch in the off position even when the key is off.

Problem disappeared sever hours later when the bike dried out a bit.
I really didn't even wet the bike that much as I was just softening up the dirt before washing it.

Will let you know if I find anything, I'm not real worried at the moment as I just leave the key off and kill switch on. The bike still started and ran fine when the problem was present.
Might try wetting isolated areas of the bike with a trigger pack to determine what area the fault is in.
 
my te310 has had three electrical "issues"
- Water in the ignition key barrel ( auto electrician fixed it ) giving exact same issue as Snail.
- Shorting in the battery relay.
- Positive lead wore through & was shorting on the frame.

The E43E is the revision of the Speedo.

I love the te310 handling, but for off road it's just not robust enough electrically.
 
I attempted to target the problem by only wetting certain areas, for me it didnt matter if the barrel or kill switch was wet/dry or on/off. I think what I wrote about in my last post was my fix. I have washed it a few times since re-sealing the diode/resisitor terminal (which I now know to be a blanked off tilt sensor) without problems.

See the bottom of the attached image for the "tilt" sensor
Tilt Sensor img.jpg
 
I should note that my headlight globe blew around the same time the short outs stopped. So it wasnt exactly a controlled experiment...
 
After all the electric problems that i had with my TE 250 2010 my salvation wa to change the wiring with a new one BUT from the 250 TX/c 2009 so i give away the speedometer,relays,blinkers,etc..
Now the wiring is much lighter stronger wires and i just set an on off button for the low beam light.Everything is perfect now.
Take a look at the new wiring in the photo,
DSC01973.JPG
 
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