So its been almost 2 months since i posted about blowing the main fuse. Took month and a half to get new stator and vr. Put both in and still blows main fuse. Have checked and rechecked every wire on the bike 3 times! Battery is fine and i am not, dont know what to do. When problem first arose fuse would blow and all electrical on bike die but bike would continue to run until you shut it off. Then replace the fuse and it would start up and run again for awhile then happen again. Over and over and over. Now here is the new twist this last time when fuse blew bike died with it, pulled over changed fuse, bike turned on, went to start it bike will crank over but not start. Could this new twist be the the cause of the origonal problem? Could really use some help dont know where to look next. My first husky and i absoutly love the bike but am ready to ghost ride it off a bridge at this point. HELP!
Can you tell me what lead you to replace the stator and VR. Was that the dealer advice? If you don't mind doing some testing we should be able to figure this out. It's only electricity and it's not doing what it is supposed to. Some background questions: 1. Year, model and miles 2. did it always do this or if not when did it start 3. Is there and RPM that the fuse blows at that you can tell. Will it do it at idle. 4. When you took it to the dealer what did they say (dealer rarely know electrical) From what I have been reading Huskys have poor wiring routing. There will be a intermittent short hiding in you wiring harness, we will just need to find it. Cam.
I went back and read your original post... "Wondering if anyone out there can help? My te 610 blows the 15 amp main fuse after i ride for couple minutes. Bike continues to run after screen goes blank then resets. Ive checked and rechecked every wire on the entire bike. Unplugged everything that i could and rode it and still bloes the fuse. Checked voltage with bike running and off voltage is ok. Any ideas." -15 amp fuse sound awful small as a main fuse, maybe try a 20 or 25 amp? -Disconnect the battery and hook a voltmeter set on buzz/continuity mode to the positive wire and frame. Does it buzz? If so, start moving the wire harness to see if it stops buzzing. (Don't know if this would work, might get continuity thru bulb filaments?) .
Dyno bob has a good point. The 630 system is capable of 26A output at 5000 RPM and above. A 30A fuse would be reasonable, although in my 630 wiring diag it shows the fuse inline with the battery and not the whole bike electrical load. In any case a short will still blow the fuse instantly. I wonder why the stock is 15A. I am going to search for a 610 wiring diag to see if its the same. Have you tried a different battery? Maybe borrow one. It is rare but I have had batteries with internal shorts. Cam.
With no other info, right now I suspect an intermittent short in the RED wired that goes from the VR to the battery. If that wire goes to ground the battery will discharge to ground thru the 15 fuse and the fuse will blow instantly. The momentary drop in system voltage will cause the speedo to reset (since its electronic) but all else will stay running since the VR is powering the bike. There is also a chance that the START RELAY itself has some type in internal fault. For a test, I would do the following: 1. With bike OFF, unplug the VR connector. There should be 12V or higher at the harness side of the connector coming from the battery. Measure V from red to battery ground and wiggle, bent twist the wire harness leading from the VR connector to the start relay. See if the voltage varies. 2. Disconnect battery + Lead. Now 2 tests, ohms form Red VR wire to ground, and ohms from battery lead to ground. Same wiggle harness from VR to relay and battery to relay to see if the ohm reading changes. In both cases the ohm should show the wires to be not connected to ground, infinite resistance. Note: wires can be bad in the harness with no visible sign. I recently found a inner broken wire in my sons Acura brake lite circuit. A mid-harness intermittent break. Yours should be visible some how since to get the current to ground there should be a hidden chafe in the wire that lets it touch frame of another grounded wire. Let me know how this works. I also need to retract what I was saying about the fuses. The fuse only handles the battery current and not the whole system current so I does not need to be greater than the 15A. Hope this helps. Cam.
Hey cam and dynobob thanks for the responses. Here is what i know. 1. Bike is a 2007 TE610 5400 miles 2. Fuse does not blow at idle only under accelaration not at any specific RPM 3. Stator was replaced at dealer vr by me (was testing at high volts thought that had to be it) 4. Tried 20 and 25 amp fuses. Same result. 5. Cam 630 is different but if i had to guess it would be #8 on your picture 6. Bought it this year with 4500 miles ran f-ing awsome until this 7. Dealer is qlueless 8. Battery is brand new (il try one from one of my other bikes) 9. Ive checked every wire routing, wire harness 3 times cannot find anything Here is what i dont know 1. Why did the bike die the last time and why will it not start now Bike is back at dealer they offered to work on it for free because they thought it was the stator, replaced it charged me and that didnt fix it. Cam i will relay your test to them and see what happens. The most sickining thing about this is i am an electrican, That has provided alot of material for my riding buddies. Bastards! Thanks again guys ill keep you posted, let me know if you think of anything else.
That excellent that you are an electrician. You will have access to the tools required and understand more. Here is my suspicion. This is a pic of the charging system. Obviously, for that main fuse #8 (F8) to blow there has to be high current through it. The only 2 sources are VR and battery. Dealer was a dumbA$$ to suspect the stator but you were right to suspect the VR. Here's my take on it. Red arrows are the only 2 current sources that can go thru the fuse. Normally only battery charging current goes through F8. Note something funny here. My clip from the manual show F8 as 15A but this closeup show F8 as 30A which I believe is wrong. Strange. You need a momentary ground on the R lead or the battery lead to get the current to spike. The higher RPM causes vibration which may be why it doesn't happen at idle. Here is one other possibility I just though of. An inner break in the R wire from the VR would cause all the bike load current to route thru that 15A F8. A test for that would be to try a 30A fuse (system maxes at 26A) or pull all the other fuses (keep enough to run) so that overall bike load is <15A. To find this I think you are going to have to open up the harness casing between the VR connector and the main relay connector and use a meter with a sharp tip that can poke through the insulation. Questions: 1. Can you describe the reset of the ODO better. That may be key as it tells me the system voltage dropped for a split second which is indicative of a short to ground. 2. Do you have access to a min/max recording meter (Fluke or similar). We could use that to monitor wire voltages when the fuse blows. 3. do you have a friend with same bike that would lend you his main relay to try (maybe dealer since he owes you). 4. How does the main relay connector look. Let me know how you make out. Be confident that we can find this. Hope this helps. Cam.
Not starting now. Have you checked all the other fuses? I notice that the 2008 TE610 electrical diagram has the same 15A vs 30A discrepency. As I look more there is also the possibility that an intermittent short on the bike could cause the battery to push current to ground thru the F8. It could only happen through circuits whos fuse is larger then the F8 otherwise those fuses would blow. Trying the large fuse will be a good test. The 25A fuse blowing is likely a good enough test but to blow a 30A or 40A the current has to be coming from the battery since the stator does not produce enough. Cam.
Does this bike still have the og. headlight??? They have been known to short out. maybe short in kill switch at handlebar??? maybe short in the headlight commutator on the clutch side??? Maybe the clutch saftey switch??? Lot's of crazy wiring under the rear fender!!! could be a short there for sure.... Does it turn over and not start, or the starter is dead too???
Hey guys thanks for the info, i will try a different battery see if that works, if not tear everything again and test the shit out of it again.
headlight is now trailtech have checked all those thinks and there fine. Also disconnected all those things and it still does it. There is just something hiding very well that i cannot see im gonna try a new battery dont think thats it but never know. thanks again
Just a side observation, his bike is an 07 (carbed) not an 08 (fi) and is wired differently than the diagram you are looking at. I suspect there is a broken wire(s) in the loom where it squeezes between the frame and radiator. I had a similar (but not same) issue on my 07 SM and the solution was to patch that section of loom. Good thing I'm already bald or I'd have pulled my hair out looking for it.
The best I can find is the 07 TE-SMR 510 owners manual with an electrical schematic. I hope it is close. You are right in that it is wired a bit different. Its too bad there isn't an electrical manual avail like the 630 one. It has more info and better diags. The 07 owners says 2ea 15A fuses but I can only find one on the schem. Any idea where the 2nd one goes? Cam.
I got a diagram for an 07. Bike is still at dealer, should be hearing from them soon saying "they cant find it" So i might be calling on you guys again once i get it back. Thanks again for your help cam!
This thread is well timed, as my 06 SM610 started doing something very similar last week. My symptoms of the issue are as follows: 1. Whilst riding the bike I noticed the speedo/gauge cluster going crazy with all of the warning lights randomly flashing. The speedo background then blanked out then started displaying random characters that changed and flashed. The indicators were also going crazy and flashing randomly without me even flicking the switch. 2. This only went on for about 10-15 seconds then all the lights and the speedo went blank 3. The bike was still running 4. I turned the bike off and it would not re-start 5. I found that the same main 15A fuse had blown 6. I replaced the fuse and turned the ignition on and the gauge returned to normal 7. I started the bike and when I gave it a few revs the exact same problem occurred and the fuse blew again. I haven't had time to inspect it yet but will get onto it in the next few days. I hope to god that you find a solution soon so I know where to start looking
What's up zooker. That's exactly how it went down with my 610. Guage cluster Goes bezerek everything flashes then goes dead but bike still runs. Except now mine does not. I have went over every wire/harness ect. With a eagle eye and cannot find anything. Cam brought Up alot of good ideas to look into. I'm thinking its not battery now since you have the same Problem! Keep in touch we got to figure this Sh-t out!
PROBLEM SOLVED!!! Pulled all the plastics off today and spent an hour going over all the wiring looking for shorts. I had the ignition on and wiggled each bit of wiring to see if I could locate the short. Starting at the back of the bike I worked my way forward and reached the front with nothing found . Then I noticed that the bolts for my horn had fallen out and it was just hanging by the wires and one of the terminals was not insulated and could hit the frame. Since I'm not one for dicking around I just pressed the exposed terminal against the frame and got a whopping spark and a pop as the main fuse blew again. I suspected I had found my short A bit of electrical tape, a new bolt and a few minutes to get the bike back together and away she went. Went for a quick 50km ride and no issues at all . camms I hope your issue is as simple as mine.
