Hi Cafe Husky, I am just starting the rebuild of my 610e engine. Has there been a post of a full rebuild before ? I found a great 630 one but not a 610e. If it’s been before before please let me know as I don’t want to bore everyone going over old subjects. From my side it’s the first electric start I’ve done (couple of left kickers but not an ‘e’, so hopefully CH members will stop me making any major goofs. Here’s my start point. (Yes I’ve bought a fancy new stand) DM
OK seems like I should make some posts. 1. Background I bought a 'spares or repair' 610e off ebay. It was originally a TE but has been modified to SM spec. It has talon hubs, which was one of the good things. The original engine was partly stripped, top end and outer casings. The PO said it was making bad noises and needed a big end. He had bought a second engine that had a blown top end and intended to make one good engine from the two. I think it had been in bits for a couple of years. It seemed there were enough parts to make a bike so I made a lowish bid which won. I now have another project bike to add to the list. To help me further I picked up a couple of 610e engines, one with a broken rod. But they were very cheap and should help with any spares. I also bought a new rod kit from motosupplies (husky-parts.uk) and a full gasket set. So that summarizes the starting point. Chassis has been stripped to base frame ready for powder coat. Here's a few pictures to give you an idea. 2. Strip Engine was already out the rolling chassis and partially stripped. The last picture above shows the tools used to strip the engine. I pulled the left hand crankcase off the crank using the Lazar crankcase splitter. Came off fine but reading the manual says you should pull the right hand case off first. When the crank came out the crank case the main bearings stayed firmly on the crankshaft. Otherwise it was easy to strip, though those used to left kickers will find the balancer shafts a novelty. The engine casings were heavily corroded externally and wanted to use aquablast to clean then up, so all the bearings needed to come out. Cases went in the oven to 200 Deg C and the bearings knocked out or pulled out for the blind ones. Getting the old bearings off the crank was a bit more stressful. I'll put that in the next post. Casings are now all off the cleaner/powders coaters. New bearings ordered from local bearing shop. Cam chain (inverted tooth type) was very worn with obvious play. New chain was hard to source but I hope Paul at Taliesin Racing will come to the rescue. Now I just have to clean and inspect all the bits, make sure I have all the new parts and the rebuild can begin. DM
OK just about ready. The new cam chain was tough to source but Paul at Taliesin came through. Cases are back from powder coat and I've got all the replacement ball bearings from the local bearing shop, gasket set etc...So a few more pics to keep the interest and then we can start the build sequence. Pic 1# Rolling frame as bought Pic #2 Strip in progress Pic #3 Cases back from cleaning and powder coat and mocked up in frame (no internals). Looks very clean... Cheers DM
So here’s the photos of the big bits after cleaning and coating. My comments so far are: Strip issues 1. Pulled wrong half of crankcase off crank when spitting cases, would have been OK but left oil/breather ? tube in back of cases which stopped them splitting. Removed tube, split cases. Guess it doesn’t matter to much. 2. Both main bearings stayed on crank, not in cases. Seems interference fit of the inner race is much tighter on shaft than the outer race in the case? 3. Getting bearings off the crank is hard, no space for bearing splitters (and you need a big one to make the span). Resorted to using small metal wedge (engineers chisel....) to move the bearings the first 5mm. Not nice but any one know a better way ? Bearing splitter then could get under the outer race for the next 20mm. Still not free from crank, so used bearing puller onto the splitter to go the rest of the way. 4. Once off I could clean up the lands on the crankshaft then found bearings still tight but easier, and would go into the case half with Tusk crankshaft puller (but only on one side). But still much tighter than the bearing fit in crankcase with everything at room temp. 5. So will try putting new bearings on crank first. Experimented assembly with old bearings to see what looked easiest. Found that if bearings heated with hot air gun then bearing would drop easily by gravity onto cold crankshaft (even without chilling the crank). This seems the easiest way without any excessive force or resorting to any pullers or drifts etc. 6. Then did test assembly of crank halves on to crank with mains fitted but no seals. If crankcase is heated with hot air gun then crank just drops in both sides. 7. Unlike left kickers crankcase halves are not gasketted. Struggled to source yamabond in UK (WHY !) so have got hold of HondaBond. I wonder if there is HuskyBond..... 8. No shims seem to fitted on the crank inboard of the mains? Assume this is because the cases are metal to metal so gap is controlled. 9. Let’s hope I can get the seals in after the cases are together. 10. On stripping all the loose parts out of the cases prior to cleaning I managed to snap off my fancy new Allen bolt 3/8 waisted keys in one of the bolts. They were all really tight and seemed assembled with loctite. So plenty of heat and anti seize used. But getting the broken bit of Allen key out was a complete pain. Ended up dremmeling (is that a new verb) a slot into the whole countersunk screw broken key and all. Then biggest slot driver in my trusty impact wrench. Good way of wasting a few hours... 11. I use a local company to aquablast the cases but beware. The process uses a rock hard abrasive paste and whilst cleans a treat, any small particles left in will come out in the assembled engine and wreak holiday in your new motor. So, blast out with air, put in wash tank, soak overnight, blast out and repeat until your absolutely sure it’s clean. Then spray the cases with preserving oil. My mate still won’t trust aquablast after wrecking a newly rebuilt motor and only uses a pure water jetting process. It must use very high pressure because it works real well, but can be expensive. 12. Bearings. I replace all the ball bearings regardless as they are cheap. But replace the roller bearings on a condition basis. I clean them in an ultrasonic bath , apply light oil and listen when spun. If not totally smooth and quiet they get changed. Why, because I think may be expensive and hard to source (long lead times). At least that what my bearing shop said, anyone know where to get the roller bearings without paying Husky/bike shop prices ? Next post, getting the cases together (hopefully) DM
First glitch, starting trying to assemble today. Putting ‘bits’ in right hand case. Crank prepped but something odd about balancer shaft bearings. Original bearing was sealed and the tin washers that sit outside look very mangled as I recall they were on the insides of the bearings on disassembly. Pretty sure this is wrong and I need open ball bearing for Right side and the roller on the left which is open anyway. Got new bearing from shop (stock) C3 grade but with seals which I will remove before assembly. Can you get a parts manual on line ? I’ve got the repair manual but the parts one always helps. Stripping a spare engine down to get two decent ‘tin washers’ to go outside the bearings and act as air seal for the crank case pressurisation.
Cases together ! Pretty good garage weekend, wife started to notice my absence .... I’ll do it three bits so you can see the pics. Prep/inspection: 1. I use a small oil stone to finally clean the mating faces of the cases. Especially critical as the ‘E’ doesn’t use a gasket, with sealant instead (I found some HondaBond but it’s all the same stuff Yamabond, Threebond etc. 2. I found the sealing rings on the end of the balancer shaft badly mashed so I took some good ones out out of an old busted motor I got cheap. 3. The 2/3 gears had really bad wear on the gear flanks, so I stopped them for a good used set. 4. I replaced all the ball bearings, the old balancer shaft ball bearing was a sealed type. Decided this was wrong so pinged the seals out of the new one. 5. Heated the new mains with a hot air gun until the smoked a bit. They dropped straight onto the cold crank. 6. Heated the cases up in oven, it really helps if the cases are oil free. Didn’t get any comments the time, and it didn’t stink the house out. Bearings in deep freeze, dropped straight in. 6. Waited for everything on the crank to cool, heated the crankcase with hot air gun again and dropped the crank with new bearing straight it. Used assembly grease on all mating surfaces. Next post, putting cases together. DM Ps put these pics up as full images rather than thumbnails ? What is preferred ?
Case assembly. Ok I’m doing this a wierd way. Just pulled the cases of an old motor apart to get some spares out of it and it came apart real easy and the main bearings stayed in the cases on both sides as they should. So must just be the size of the crank varies very slightly between limits. The mains on this rebuild engine are real tight on the crank, hence putting them on the crank first. Normally I put them in the case first, then use a Tusk crank puller to yank the shaft through the bearing. But on the 610E the puller doesn’t fit on the right hand side of the crank as the shaft diameter is too big. 1. Put all the gearbox gubbins in the left side case, takes a bit of juggling. Much easier with case in engine stand especially one the rotated. 2. Experimented with best way to cases as once the HondaBond was on the surfaces I didn’t want any last minute glitch. 3. So left hand case put in stand, flipped up 45 degrees and main bearing area heated with Heatgun. 4. Put the balance wheel on the right hand end of the balanced shaft to stop it falling out. Smeared sealant on both cases mating faces as thinly as I could using rubber gloves digit. Put assembly lube on mains outer race and lowered the right cases onto of the left case. Sorry no pics but I had my hands full. 5. Main bearing went in about five mm then hung up. Used Tusk crank puller to go fully home, went very easy. Just had to use hide mallet to get back of case to keep up. 6. Case screws inserted, all done ! Pushed full image button this time...
Post #3 Pics of: 1. Crank puller in position 2. Products used 3. Random pic of all the debris I found in the spares engines oil strainer. What a mess. Now for the rest of the assembly, looks straight forward....
Hi DM, if you're still looking for a parts book there are some here: http://beavercreekcycle.com/Husky Manuals/Parts/ And here: http://shop.endurobunker.de/info/Ersatzteilkatalog-husqvarna-bis-2013.html I had a lot of links to manuals but most of them aren't working anymore.. I've an uploaded parts book for 2000 TE-TC 410-610 but don't know how to send them to you. It's 5MB. Maybe if you PM me your e-mail I can give it a try? EDIT: Found the link: http://www.husqvarna-motorrad.de/uploads/tx_userzupindownloads/et_2000_te610e.pdf And there are loads more manuals there too. Upload while the link still works is my thinking... http://www.husqvarna-motorrad.de/index.php?id=736 Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the links all sorted now, noted the bikes in your collection so thought you might like this First race meet was the HVA series round 1. Yam lost its sparks and the husky blew it coolant all in a few laps of practice.
What a lovely HL! My XT is modified with TT350 front end and Öhlins from a Husky for gravel roads and single track. 510 is very nice too. Hope you get them sorted for the next meet!
Back to the engine build. Bottom end now boxed up and in frame, piston and barrel installed and ready for top end. Went pretty well with following comments: 1. When I tightened the balancer shaft drive gear the nut didn’t feel right when torquing down and then the engine locked up. Minor panic, turned out to the tin sealing washer behind the bearing was binding on the boss of the balance weight. Some tweaking sorted it without having to split the cases again. 2. Some of the case screws didn’t screw in well and needed a thread restorer running down to the bottom of the holes to get yet more crap out from the vaquablasting media. Can’t believe how hard it is to get all this stuff out. Really hope it’s out from all the internals (pretty sure it is). 4. I like to remove the casing hollow dowels so I can remove all the corrosion and make them a nice sliding fit as it’s a pain when things are tight in the casing holes. Especially with the right side clutch case as you need to be able to feel the oil pump drive engaging with the crank end. Do not mess this up as you can break the drive tangs on the crankend. 5. Was fortunate to have a spare set of cases to try in the frame first. Had to remove some powder coat in the edge of the mounting holes on the frame to get the swing arm spindle to slide in nicely. Also I removed all the powder coat on the inside of the bottom mount to make sure the engine is electrically earthed to the frame.
Build slowed up a bit as work trips and prepping motocross bikes for the odd meeting got in the way. Back on it today and have built the top end up. Couple of snags: 1. The camshaft was quite grooved where it rubs on the seals for the water pump. Changed for a spare shaft still with some wear but a lot less. See photos, think it should seal OK. 2. Head bolts torque. Pulled the 4 main ones down to 27 ft.lb and 2 barrel ones to 18 ft.lb. My manual says pull them down an extra 90 degrees after reaching 27 ft.lb. Hmmmm Torque to yield bolts, have not played this game before and my earlier 4T left kicker engines don’t use this method either. Not sure what to do, have read other posts on this, so think I know the basis of this. I’m pretty sure these studs have been tensioned a few time before so don’t really want to put additional permanent stretch in them and risk necking or snapping under load. Think I know that I should really replace the studs with new and do it properly but tempted to just check the bolt torque after first few heat cycles and see if the gaskets hold. Appreciate members views.
Sorry for the delay, all back together now. Back street legal, enjoying few rides so far when lockdown rules permitted. No special issues finishing the build just takes ages for all those 'little' jobs. Makes a nice change to have an electric start.
