ever continuing stalling issues

Hey guys, has anyone got to the bottom of the issues with the husky stalling when choppin the throttle on, especially in 1st gear through the tight stuff? I've got an 09 TE 450 and this is the only real issue I have. It is derestricted and the gearing is fine for the type of off road riding I do. It has done about 500 kms and the issue is still there.
Any suggestions would be great!

I don't know if this is a fix but I was having some issues too. I believe the manual says idle is about 1600 rpm +/-. I raised it to 1750-1800 rpm and my stalling dramatically went down. Every now and again I'll get the dreaded flame out....of course at the most inconvenient time, but she'll usually light back up before the wheels stop moving.

I had the same issue on my '08 TE 250. Put the idle up to 1800-1850 rpm. Problem vanished.

I can "third" that. Raisded to 1850, all good now on my 09 TE310.

I feel your pain. Unfortunately for me the increased idle didn't do the trick, it helped, but didn't fix it. Seems to work better on the smaller motors. I've had mine as high as 2100rpm and it never totally stopped. Even a Rekluse Pro clutch didn't stop it.

Work with the Power Commander 3 and lowering the compression has made the biggest improvement. I still does it when it gets hot in tight spots.

I'm going to see what I can do about retarding the timing. Husky Sport suggested that for improved starting and I think that might even help the stall.

The past year my race results have bottomed out. I went from winning most of my races to DNF'ing most of them.

I picked up a WR250 to see if I can get my racing back on track and I'll continue to work with the TE510.

Good luck and sorry for the rant.:rant:

I was going to buy an 09 TE450 this weekend, but the unresolved problems with the FI, and what I believe is a setup issue is disheartening. I delayed my purchase. It doesn't seem to even be worthwhile to own your own copy of the iBeat software.

What kind of setup was done to your bikes? Do they have the powerup kit?

Yes, I have the power up kit, but I don't know much about the set up. I have the Power Commander III which gives you more control of the fuel map than iBeat does.

I hate this sort of thing is discouraging you from buying a Husky, and you may not have any problems with it. As a dual sport ride it's a good bike, it just suffers in race mode. Stay away from gnarly tight stuff and it rocks. It really is a fun bike.

I've narrowed it down to a combination of ignition advance, compression and flywheel weight after fixing the leanness with the PCIII. The decrease in compression was an improvement and it's basically a slower revving bike, so I hate to add flywheel weight. That leaves timming retard. I'd like to retard the timing below 2750rpm. At a crawl the piston barely has enough momentum to carry it over the top of stroke with all the compression. With generous spark advance the plug fires just before the piston struggles it's way to TDC and that's just enough to stop it. It's worse when hot because it's on the verge of pre-ignition anyway.

At those rpm it needs to fire just as the piston get past it's TDC dwell.

Thanks for the answers on the setup. Your diagnosis, way too complicated and wouldn't explain how other bikes with more compression run at idle. I would just get your TPS set, and see if there is another map that you can put in your PCIII. Those PCIII maps have more permutations than the lottery. No two are going to be the same. The solution is going to be something simple with the setup unless there is a bad part somewhere.

Meh, I just re-read what I wrote. I probably wouldn't really know what problems you are having. A little too presumptive of me.

Honestly, I didn't notice any issues with stalling until installing a Rekluse. A hard throttle whack and release will make it die nearly every time while riding slow/ medium speeds. Turned idle up but still occurs. Installed gap is well within spec. I've not had iBeat ever hooked up to the bike so still have that block to check. Don't think it would fix it after seeing F2G go thru the exact same thing and still experiencing the stall even after going the pcIII route.

Im about to check the idle speeds and increase it to see if that helps at all. Thanks for all the input. If the idle does not help I will visit my dealer and see if he can weave any magic. Its a shame because the 450 is an awesome bike and thats my only drama but its not a small one either.

Other bikes with more compression may have more complicated ignition / EFI maps that prevent this, like retarding the timing more at low rpm. This EFI doesn't seem to adjust itself all that well. IMO a Keihin FCR does as good or better of a job.

I think the solution is relatively simple, but somewhat expensive for an after sale fix. I think iBeat is a joke. As expensive as the software is, it does little to nothing as far as tuning is concerned. The PCIII gives you much more capability for half the price. For the price of iBeat I should have total tuning capability over the ignition and EFI maps.

BTW- It was just on the iBeat two weeks ago and everything checked out OK.

checked my idle rpm and it was already set at 1850. Bumped up to 1900-1950 but issue still there. At idle when I go to open the throttle suddenly even with bike just on the stand it seems to bog down for a split second then rev out. I've only ever owned two strokes that were pretty responsive, my problem only really happens it 1st gear or sometimes second. I know they are different riding styles but I want to get to the bottm of this as its a pain in the arse

I have the same conditions- more so in quick snap throttle changes at low rpm- but it also does flame out more than my other carbed bike in same conditions- like the motor is tuned for WOT and does not know what to do in the low rpms- because everywhere else its VERY strong.
Usually this is type of issue is resolved in set up on bikes- Jetting/gearing- normal stuff. This is differnent.
I have lowered gearing and had my TPS adjusted and FB1 adjusted. (mine is full poweruped). I always "think" when I get a power commander I will make it work better. But am not sure. I have noticed I am adjusting how I ride the TE and am making it work for me. Lotsa clutch work.

I have seen Dyno graphs (not that I am a even a good interpreter of Dynos) and it seems the bike is tuned for more Mid to high Rpms with a weak bottom. This would be effected by cam, ignition, and pipe. Right? So maybe our EFI is not the issue and we EFI gets the blame cause its new to us... I don't know. Sounds like alot of time and money has been spent on EFI tuning- with no change. Maybe efi is not totally at fault here?
Maybe a pipe tuned for grunt-? As mentioned before more Flywheel weight, What options exist for ignition- That's another new area for me- never had to worry about that either... Just thinking outloud-
I am going to quiet my exhaust with a modded insert- maybe that will increase what most call backpressure- and change the tune. Maybe it will make it worse- anyone have the "DBKIller" and have better or worse results- Or after market exhausts.

I have been very happy with this bike overall, in more open areas without rocks logs and barbashing tight trees- I am way faster on this bike than my reigning single trac bike. I would like to get the husky to take that position too!

Motorhead - have you ever tried somebody else's bike? My 09 TE510 does none of the things yours does.

I would troubleshoot this as a control system - map out the throttle position sensor output vs position using a scope and an external power supply - then trend the reference voltage during operation - then verify the signal at the ECU (after the harness) - then scope the output to the fuel injector.(electrical and fuel pressure)

OR - swap entire throttle control assembly, then ECU, then injector.

I went through this on a fly by wire Volvo car - and it was a bad wiper in the throttle control unit - all sorts of surging and drivability issues till it was sorted out.

MAT

I'm not the only one with this issue, just most vocal.

Have you had your bike in tight single track ?

I rode 3 hours of of mixed tonight - only 50 or so minutes of clutching first gear-only stuff.

I am not dismissing your problem - just saying that it's not what my bike does. If we were closer I'd give you my throttle body to try (after a Ibeat cal).

My bike will stall if full full hot and I don't crack the throttle when clutching it through really technical tight stuff. When I get tired or it's getting dark and I can't see very well it happens.

MAT

make sure the spark plug lead is properly attached to the plug cap it can and does work looser .

Ive got a 09 te450 and when i picked it up they had it completely derestricted - i went riding and it was really easy to stall and really loud, the gearing was also too tall for the tight stuff. So i put a 50t rear sprocket on and put the standard bung back in the bike, wow what a difference, okay so it sounds more like a lawn mower than a harley but it never stalls, has heaps more tourque down low and im about 5 seconds a lap faster because i can get on the gas really early and take advantage of the great front end grip in corners. Not enough Backpressure in the exhaust could be the reason for your stalling issues, backpressure gives you more grunt down low where you really want it and makes the Husky easier to ride, my power is now similar to my 07 wr450 which won lots of praise for its easy to use engine!
Give it a go and prove my theory wrong!

hey Birdman,
That's encouraging. What do you mean by "standard bung?"
Thanks.