Looking around the various threads here/ ADV and other places, removing the factory thermostat from the right header tank of the radiator seems to be fraud with problems. "Thors Hammer"...bashing the thermostat cage to smithereens...the need to remove the rad from the bike to proceed with the harsh treatments on the bench... All that put the brakes on installing the T-stat delete, as I was looking at a bag of potential problems and f&*&-ups with the associated bike-out-of-action...waiting-for o/s parts, costly parts and shipping etc etc With some time at hand over the Xmas period, I kept looking at "Tinken's Mona Lisa" every time I walked into the garage. First I took the R-hand panel off to gain access. Then I "wasted" an hour to have a real good look at things....and there's an option! 1) remove R-hand front plastics 2) warm up bike for about 5 mins, just enough to get a little temp into the plastic header tanks to make them expand the tiniest bit. 3) disconnect expansion tank (have you done the re-route of the hose yet??) 4) disconnect and drain both in+out radiator hoses. 5) remove both top hanger bolts of radiator and slide rad off bottom lug (keep eye on rubber grommet ) 6) now there is enough wriggle-room for the rest of the job 7) loosen and remove bottom clip of thermostat with screw-driver 8) check the thermostat-cage from below....veeeery carefully, It's perfectly round but has one single lug facing out!!! 9) the lug is the key to the whole thing. Check the position of the lug carefully and find the corresponding notch/ recess in the header tank housing. 10) insert a matching! screwdriver blade in the recess and lever OEM T-stat cage downward, and/ or rotate screwdriver blade gently but firmly to dislodge the the rubber O-ring 11) I replaced the screwdriver with another I quickly ground to size and shape on the belt-sander to fit the recess/ slot in the header tank. Pry and lever until the thermostat just pops out and you're taking a Glycol-bath in blue, green, yellow or whatever colour your coolant is. On re-assembly, lube the rubber O-ring with pure Glycol concentrate as a lubricant to seat the T-stat (or the T-stat_delete) with just thumb-pressure. Thermostat_Delete: Do NOT force/ hammer the T-stat Delete into the housing, check for the "notch" to line up with the housing and make sure to line up the bottom groove with the C-clip to hold things in place. The unit will push into place with a good shove of thumb-pressure (after lubing the O-ring!!) NB: looking at the factory T-stat I have to agree with Tinken... the cage construction allows an enormous amount of continuous coolant bypass to render the whole thing barely "half-a-thermostat" worth. If I'd make my own from the factory parts.... I'd junk the factory T-stat incl. spring and all other bits, then shut off the top of the cage with a couple of alloy washers bolted together, sandwiching the T-stat-seat as a locator. Not as neat or flow-directing as the Tstat_Delete unit, but most probably doing the job nearly as well and decidedly better than the factory setup.
Thanks for the tip. I bought one of these pretty machined bits a couple of weeks ago but wasn't looking forward to installing it. This gives me hope that the install will go smoothly. It won't of course, but at least I can hold on to the hope!
.....and that is (almost) exactly what I did. Just had a 350 km run out in the heat and everything is now running perfectly cool with the T Gauge at around 40% all day on the road.
I think you'll be fine. I procrastinated for about 2 months after reading some of the stuff/ looking at the pics here. Once the initial "seal" was broken, the OEM unit didn't take all that much prying before coming loose and giving me a bath. Thankfully the coolant was just the right temp.... About to check results on a longer run and some more hot weather here around the weekend.
We had the radiator out on my bike. You are right Glitch. Once the oring seal is broken the thermostat pops right out. Ty knocked mine out from the top. After the thermostat delete I installed Zipty's coolant. Be sure to burb all the hoses. I squeeze every hose until no more bubles appear at the top of the radiator. After a few squeezes you will see the coolant rise and fall. I do every hose to insure there are no air trapped in the system. The 4.0 jeeps are famous for trapped air.
After looking at my Thermostat Delete for a few months and reading what a pain it is to remove the thermostat, I bit the bullet and placed my TR on the lift. I removed the right side plastic. Removed the clip and inserted a screwdriver into the slot, gave it a light pry and it moved just a bit. I pushed on the tab and it moved more, and I was able to get to the back of the cage thingy and gave it a light pry and it slid right out. I slid in the Thermostat Delete. Job done. I spent more time looking for something to push through the radiator, ( that I did not use) ,than the job itself . Removing the bodywork only helped me to remove the cap. I did not remove or mess with the radiator . So if I was to do this again I would just remove the clip and pry out the thermostat cage and slide in the Thermostat Delete. Easy job, great part. Thanks Took the bike out two times in the last few days , bike runs great, seems to run a bit cooler, 50-60 degree days. YMMV
You were very fortunate to be able to get the thermostat to come out by prying on the tab. I have done seven thermostat jobs now and so far only one has been easy, the rest have involved removing the radiator from the bike and using some serious leverage to get it it move. In one of the first posts regarding doing this job, it was posted that you just tap it out from the top, then after several of us found that it wasn't really like that, and the OP responded to say that the thermostat support was seriously stuck in there and required considerable force. Other guys who have tried have broken the tab clean off in an attempt to move it. By far the best way is to try the tab first, but if it doesn't move easily, then with a cold radiator out of the bike and use boiling water on the outer casing to expand it, then a large allen key through the lower inlet hole to carefully lever the thermostat out.
Thanks to Mark H in Cebu and other posters here in CH I am a little late to the party but finally pulled the plug/ "The Stat" and got this done 3 days ago. I have been in correspondence via our local (Philippine Husky Face Book -UHAW) with Mark and had my "Lower Case already out and modified based on Marks 1 generation fix. But, lucky me when I was ready to install it I sent Mark some of my images and within an hour he gave me the updated "I call it Mark H's Mod IV" version with the upper case and the 2 peso coins. That saved me a bunch grief. Additionally, I had been frustrated by the lack of what the actual coolant temp was on my "Terrable" So I also installed a Koso 22mm Temp Sensor Block in the lower hose and a Koso Temp Gauge but Celsius and tapped into a switched connector in the headlight area. NOW I'm happy. But second set of images to follow. Regards, Chris in Tagaytay, Philippines
Thanks to ALL the posters here on Cafe Husky for your insights to the various issues of the TR series, as well as your experiments, modifications and SOLUTIONS. Just waiting for Glitch in OZ to have his TR at 325 lbs and a solid 58-60 HP at the rear wheel. Regards, Chris
Hello to to All Cruising here +hasenpfeffer. I also increased my "Terrable" value when back in Feb. I had my exhaust system modified to single pipe, with thermal tape and a new Lexx MSE can for 8,000 pesos ($ 174) and then sold my stock "Terrable" Cans for 9,000 pesos ($ 196) in early March. Yahoo ! more beer money. The update to my Thermo post above: I forgot to state I also started using the XF2 Coolant. After a few of rides and as of April 15th, my Temp Gauge has been reading 75-93 º C = 157-199 º F. I just wish I could shave 50-60 lbs as I'm 67 and currently shrinking from 5'4" = TrackMaster Kit would solve that issue - LOL Regards to All Here, Chris
Help, I cannot find the bottomclip. Is it possible that there is none? I ordered a Zipty delete. A Friend takes it with him from US to Holland. Which is the upper part from the device?
There should be a clip. Here's a parts breakout: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/another-one-bites-the-dust.45824/page-3#post-449815 I thought the ZipTy delete was no longer available. Be sure you actually have the ZipTy delete part in hand before you believe it.
My American friend did send me a photo of the part he received .............indeed... a ZipTy delete. I can not wait until he is coming, so I can put the part in place.
