FE/FC FE 350 still running hot

This had been the best bike out of the box that I have ever purchased except for this annoying over heating issue. In the slower trails it gets so hot on the right side that I cannot grip the bike with my leg. I sent the ecu to Halls to richen the mapping up and that helped quite a bit but is now back to heating up very fast. What do I do next ?

Came with a fan that is constantly on. I will try the waterless coolant next

What about ditching the T-stat? And I know some KTM guys replace the fan switch with a replacement that kicks on at a lower temp.

Thanks for the input. This is what is great about a mainstream machine. Lots of options !

I've done the richer (Aussie) fuel map adjusted my TPS to .61 and put the waterless coolant in. I put one of those temp stickers on top of my radiator and after doing a hard day of tight trail and monster hill climbs it never went above 209 deg and usually stayed below that. My buddy with a kx250 with waterless coolant and temp sticker in same location ran 209deg. So I can't complain. The coolant helped temps by 10-15degrees if I had to average it. My bike has 15hrs or so on it now. The first 5-6 hrs it ran hot and i could feel it on the right side.

I had Halls do the same Aussie Map. Not sure if it included the TPS reset. I will try the coolant next

Russ, Take alot of this as my set up opinions, however read the second part with open ears.

OEM stock louvers. Fan function. No thermostat assy. CV4 or equivalent hoses. ZipTy XF coolant.
remap of FI to better stochiometric levels (read more rich=cooler runing). Perhaps a more open exhaust (better flow not noisy, still enduro legal sound), to carry heat away. verify inspect clean fuel filter. Add ZipTy fuel filter (I just saw the one that Tinken mentions on ZipTy Racing pro Justin Morgans bike, its a sano item)

Now last (or first thing) thing be sure that the Injector is free and unclogged ! . Note that Fueling (clogged injectors) issues have plagued KTM/Huskys in more than a few pro races this year.

Even partially clogged with a bad spray pattern will kill you with bad lean, o heat, bad combustion, weird issues.
You will think all is normal.......but its not. (ask me how I know.)
ZipTy sends them to a lab for post removal test eval and documentation, then the lab cleans/backflushes/chem treat them and redoes the eval and documents the results. My TXC310R (think FI system not model) was running well so I thought, but I had some stalling issues and then new owner had severe O heat issues as well as stalling issues.......
until ZipTy pulled the injector and showed me the test results, the spray pattern was like a squirt gun streaming all directions with little fuel atomization, and flow was reduced by something like 20% , the bike ran but was unknown to me (ignorance is bliss)... way down on fuel flow and thus lean and shooot was way down on power without me even knowing it.
This may also be why (it is why) when I rode the Sherco300 SEI that it felt waaaaay better than my TXC310R in the injection dept.
That said you could get a new injector install it and send out the original to ZipTy for a test and refresh, or they may swap it for a refreshed one, yea you will have 2 injectors.....so you have a reserve on the shelf as a back up. You also get the lab report report so you know if the injector was/is the issue. If not again you have a spare if so you have a perfect running bike with a new injector with a spare good one on the shelf.

PS this what is done with our aircraft fuel nozzles as well. they always get sent in for spray pattern analysis, and returned to use/refurbished if they are satisfactory as far as all specs go, besides pattern and flow, they cant be deteriorated or corroded for example.

My buddies KTM 350 without a fan will begin steaming off within 5 minutes of riding Knar. He put a fan on and it runs constant but no more steaming issues. He uses engine ice like all the other KTM guys. My 501 only has 7 hours on it now but it will have 30 hours by next weekend so I'll circle back with some hard evidence on my specific 501 heat issues. I've done a reflash with trailtech switch and put XF+ in the rads. I hope it cools down after racking up some miles next week. Another side note, I checked and adjusted the valves last week and while the exhaust valves were spot on, my intakes were really tight(0.03 and 0.05) so I re shimmed those guys. The engine starts better and idles smoother after the valves were set. I changed the oil after the valve job with 0w40 and a PC Racing reusable filter. Hoping for some positive results from the maintenance as well.
P.S. The valve job on a 501 is really easy and pleasant compared to others I've done.