FE/FC FE 350 suspension tips

I have problems with my suspension settings...fork is main problem.
I weight 107kg fully gear,and im more hobby racer than pro.
My dealer sold me 4.8 fork springs and 6.4 shock spring, and they did some valving changes for those springs. more rebound mainly I think. Bike is great when trail is sandy or more open bumpy stuff, but when riding rocky,more technical slower tracks(which is very typical terrain here in Finland) fork is not good at all! it hits my hands and bounces up and down / left or right...not good feeling at all. And messing with clickers doesn't help much. I even try tubliss traction system in front but that doesn't change thing much.
Race sag for that spring is about 105mm and static 30mm, spring preload is 10mm. Shock feels okay.

Sounds like the rebound needs tweaked.
I have been lucky. I weight 240 before gear and the stock susp has been great everywhere with just clicker adjustments. Sag is at 100mm

4CS are critical set up type forks no slack with these things. mine are fresh back from a full scientific r&D private engineer with multi valve installation flow benches, a fully automated and instrumented shock dyno as well as his own blends of fluids. we shall see what he learned and built into my forks.......word is from his tech that has a good data base on them now. hope it translates to all that I want from my front end. report will be forthcoming, but will take some time until Im back up to speed

Ok! im not sure are those 4.8 springs too harsh for me? maybe I should try 4.6?
Clickers are now rebound 7-8 out and compression 16-18 out, that is best option at this moment. If I open rebound over 10 clicks it becames awful to ride!

I have just started making some calls on this as well, I felt this suspension was far better than my other huskies of past but yet I feel less confident in it due to not being able to tell if it will push or tuck on me in any given corner. One common thing ive heard is to run 105mm sag not the 100mm the book calls for. I just seem disconnected with the front end and have no confidence in it sticking at all. Going to change up front tire but will probably need to do something with suspension.

48's and 6.4 isn't a balanced setup, surprised you got those sag settings with that shock spring, thought it would have been too stiff.

Drop the sag to 112mm and put the forks flush. Go in about 6 clicks from std on the shock rebound, out 2 on LS comp to match that spring.

Do you have the fork valving details that it has now?

Ok!i have 5.8 and 6.2 springs also but i think stiffer spring needs less preload and that is always good thing?
Fork bottom needle valving is made softer so because that fork wont bottom easily and low speed compression valving is made little lighter and rebound pack is slowed down because of stiffer springs.

And i have dropped forks one line down from stock,

I have a 4.8 and 6.2 and weight 230. Was told by one place springs are good and told by another springs are a tiny bit heavy and stock valving is to light. The common thing was to run 105 sag and bottom of fork cap flush with top of clamp. I guess I'll give it a shot..

Okey, i test it also!
I have possibility to test fox podium rc3 shock next week, it is linkage ktm xc-f shock with factory xc valving in. It is interesting!

for 107kg (in gear) I would try the 5.8 shock spring with 110-112mm sag, it is more balanced with the .48's in the front.
also run the forks flush with the top of the clamp.

concerning you say adjusting the clickers doesn't do anything, I would be finding out what valving changes they done

okay, thanks lot for information!

Ran my 350 at an Enduro yesterday with the front forks set on the first line instead of the second, doesn't sound like much but really helped with following ruts and not pushing as much. Rear was 105 sag. Just an FYI.

Bad thing is my fork seals are both leaking at about 20hrs.... Had a bad crash awhile back and I may have bent the triple clamp or forks, I bent my bar mounts that's how hard it was and I have to kinda tweek and get pressure on the upper clamp after the lower is tight to get everything straight. Sending the works in to have Halls see if they can tell which it is??

So I'm still having trouble getting settled in to the 350. I've tried running 105 sag with forks flush, this felt like I was just whipping the rear end around me at every turn and steering was stiff and slow. I tried 2 lines down and the steering felt lighter and responsive like my Italian husky but it won't hold a line for anything. 1 line down was OK but it feels like it wants me to turn it by power sliding the rear all the time and it will tuck sometimes. Worst part of this setting is its all over in the sand won't track straight and finds every rutt, unlike my Italian bike that just made its own path and went!
Ride pg says it needs valved, which it may, and it needs to have the bars in position 3 to turn right. I just have this feeling like the bike isn't balanced even though its sprung correct for me. I really notice the disconnect with the front end going over logs and poles since I can't tell if its going to slide off or go over until its to late. Just frustrated!!

wpracinsuspension website advice that static sag should be 35mm and race 112mm, according to that website this is better than bikes own handbook says.
have anyone tried 5.0 nm front springs? that is my next to do list...
im still struggling with fork, harshness at rocky/roots sections.

Just had suspension re valved and heavier springs put in front 5.2 front 6.2 rear 100mm sag 225-230lbs 30+ A rider. Had 4.8 front and 6.2 rear.
Just tested it out at the Millville hare scramble yesterday.
I immediately felt more in control of the bike and it felt way more predictable. Conditions were choppy and the bike tracked straight but some fine tuning of the valving is needed due to it being stiffer than I'd like. I'd hit wash board stuff in 3-4th gear pinned and still feel every single bump so going to slow wasn't an issue.
I ran the forks at one line down and it followed lines OK only wanting to hop out a couple times but I did get a sence it was rear wheel steering more than I like. It still wants to bring the back end around the bike entering a corner and wants to lift the front and steer with the back tire exiting a corner but way way way less than before.
Still some work to do but getting closer! I still would like to hear from someone who has tried a different offset triple clamp??

Just what Ive got so far (TE300 2T)
.51 F,6.1 rear 210 without gear 50A rider R 35mm static 100 race, front sits a little bit high in sag (I may test a slightly lighter front spring or do a combo for a "tween" rate, I need to get a better measure (I moved the forks up into ring 1 to compensate) for my taste and is a little short of the industry/vinduro % of travel sag settings. remember springs are for "position"/chassis balance with rider as sprung weight, oil and valve stack control those spring movements. These 4CS are still not dialed on my machine either, I like more "float" plush feel on sharp rocky high speed hits.

Huh... Sounds like you guys are running quite a bit stiffer springs then I would have thought? I picked up .50 springs u guys got me worried now... Well if anything I know it's gona be better then the 13 Hond CRF450 I just sold, those forks where horrible!!

I to am feeling the deflection or pogo stick effect in rocky terrain. Seems to work at fast speeds. I wiegh 220 street clothes I have done the rear spring 6.1 or 6.2 and fork springs at 4.6 running 105 sag. Any help would be great...

4.6 is on the light side for your weight and not matched to your 6.1/6.2 shock spring. Try to get your hands on some 4.8's.
What are your clickers set at?

set the forks flush wight he top of them and the clamps and try sag around 112mm, see how that goes