FE/FC FE 501 break in

Hello gentlemen,
I just picked up my 15 501 today in the crate. I am building it out to my specs over the next few days as parts come in. I noticed the bike has a bell Ray sticker on the motor. Anyone know if it is synthetic? I'd prefer to break the bike in on Dino oil. Also do they run these bikes before they leave the factory? Just wondering in relation to my oil filter being full of oil or dry. Thanks

They are run at the factory and the dealer should have run it also. I broke mine in with mobil1 0-40 synthetic and have been running it ever since. I'm also running a stainless PC Racing oil filter.

What other mods are you doing?

Wow, that didn't work so well. My bike wasn't run by the dealer at all. My thoughts were to run dumonde break in oil for the first hour or so then dumonde YAP 400.
I'm doing a fair amount of mods as you can see if you flip your monitor upside down.
Scotts damper sub mount
Flex bars
FMF 4.1 exhaust
Tm skidplate
Golan supermini fuel filter
tank sock
Midwest mountain eng. clutch lever
Seat concepts sport seat
System tech racing speed bleeds, slave guard,clutch case guard, brake pedal, bar inserts
Cycra hand guards
Power for Garmin w/ram mount
A few other things
Still waiting on a few more parts.

Right after breaking in my bike, I used to shell rotella t6. I just came back from a ride. When I gun it, the clutch slips!

Is anyone else having this issue?

Don't over think it. The engine was ran at the factory. They fill it with Belray synthetic. The engine is durable, just run it for an hour and change to whatever oil you like. My 2014 came with moterx synthetic which I used until I switched to 0w40 Mobil1 I'm at 1800 miles and 62 hours. No oil burning and when I just checked the valves for the 3rd time, the top end still looks new.

I hear ya Reveille, I just sold my 2012 KTM 500 XC-W with 7500 miles and 338 hours and that was broken in with the oil that came in it. Valves stayed in spec the whole time and it never burned a drop of oil. In my experience these motors are rock solid. It was also the origional piston. I was using silkolene full synthetic and changing every 5-600 miles. I have dad some things in the mean time suggesting that break in with Dino oil would seat the rings better. Just seeing what you guys thought.

Well to clarify, my intake valves were very tight at 3 hours and the exhaust were dead nuts. I adjusted the intakes. At 62 the intakes are perfect and the exhaust were loose so I adjusted them. I'm hoping that is were they stay for the next 40 hours or so. I love the fact that this engine is easy to work on too, much easier than my last Italian twin cam for sure. Enjoy the new bike

Hah! I am switching to Rotella T5; the non synthetic version and will report back.

Make sure that the API label on the back does not say "energy conserving". I thought that T5 and T6 were both energy conserving oils.

I believe Rotella T6 is safe for wet clutches. I have used it in many different bikes (both street and dirt) without issues. I switched to Amsoil quite a while ago because I gave it a try and found out that my bikes shift a lot smoother with it vs. the T6.

It's coming along, this bike would be hard not to enjoy!

Sorry for the blurry shot above, at least It's right side up! Here is a better shot.