Finally I’ve got the TE630 that I was looking for. It has all the “extras” that I want plus a lot more From May 2010, 14.000 km on the dash, the bike seems to be in perfect conditions. The owner really has taken care of it. Here some picks
Congrats man- great bike. Here's a response I just posted to your other thread- posting here to make sure you see it and to add clarification: What Dynobob meant to say was look for wear on the countershaft itself (as opposed to the actual CS sprocket)- look for play between the shaft and sprocket. Without the cush hub the countershaft splines wear fast (on some of the 630's, not all.) Replacing that, of course, requires a case splitting.
Hey, thanks to all. I also think that the bike looks cool. EricV: I read your advice also in the other thread: thank you for your support. In this moment I can't check what you say because I broke the device that I use to lift the TE310 trying to lift the TE 630 Between us, the "lifter" was a bit old and was near to collapse, and so, as the 630 weight 35kg more than the 310, when I tried to lift it, the device... passed away So now I have to order a new one capable to stand at least 165Kg By the way, what does ti means "case splitting"? Thumperama, I'll ask the old owner where he bought it as soon as I take contact with him
Yes, I checked today and I found play between shaft and sprocket I was planing to make a 300km trail but now I don't know if I should before I change the shaft. Any advice? Is it complicated to change the shaft for a new one? Only for your information, as I'm in the "moderation process" by CafeHusky my answers take some hours / day to be visible to you all.
Personally, I'd go on that ride. An extra 300ks probably won't make that much difference. Its why you got the bike. Plus a good excuse to practice smooth throttle and brake control. Are you sure it is the shaft that is worn, more than the sprocket? How much free play is there? Did you take the sprocket off and inspect the splines on the shaft to see how worn do they look? Have you measured the play with a new sprocket in place? A good bet is to post a picture of the splines here. I'm sure you'll get feedback. Changing the shaft is no small job. Splitting a case involves taking the engine off the frame, then removing lots of parts, until you can open the crankcase where the gears are. Involves a few specialized tools. Looks like this: I think a new shaft by itself is under $100, but its a lot of labour - and typically if you get the engine this far apart and rebuild, you service other parts too, and it adds up. If it turns out it is the sprocket and the shaft is still ok, you might want to invest in a cush rear sprocket to reduce wear. See: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/is-my-front-sprocket-shaft-excessively-worn.80168/#post-530334 Also: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/counter-shaft-splines.26957/ http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/countershaft-sprocket-freeplay.21270/#post-187269
OK, thank you. I'll check it properly when I get a new stand for the bike (this time I checked it by moving the bike a bit to the left and to the right with first gear engaged) to see how much free play is, to inspect the splines, etc. Good to know that could be the sprocket, not the shaft. And good to know there's a free play also when it´s new. And the "welding" solution can be taken into account as the last option before open the case. Prevent (avoid) rust on the shaftalso make sense, so I'll take a look to it and I'll grease it a little bit. When I get pictures of the sprocket I'll post here or, even better, in a "countershaft sprocket" related thread Again, I aprecite a lot your help
Hi The previous owner of the bike has told me that is the Touratech one for Husqvarna terra 650. Sorry to say that right now, at least in Touratech Spain is not available...
