125-200cc FMF Turbine core made my 125 run bad

I put a FMF Turbine Core spark arrestor on my 2008 CR 125. I had it stock with the husky silencer and pipe, now with just adding the FMF spark arrestor with the stock pipe, it runs like crap.

Stock it ran great, now from idle to mid throttle it blubbers,loads up,stalls etc. On the top, i.e full throttle, it runs great, so the question is....what adjustments,jetting, etc. do i need to try. I run Spectro SX synthetic at 40:1 ratio. thanks.

Probably need to drop down on the pilot. Mine had the 35 stock, and I went down to the 30. Before, it wouldn't idle. It idles nicely with the 30. I also went to the 390 main with the needle clip in the middle. This combo worked nicely until I put the Powernow in, and I now have a big hole in my midrange. I'll be messing with the the needle clip this weekend to try to alleviate the bog.

I got better bottom end with the TC2. I did have to lean out the needle one step though.

I have the same bike It ran great stock and when i installed the FMF pipe with the turbin core spark arrestor it also ran great .Why is it me
but for both my 2006 CR 125 and my 2008 CR 125 i have never had to or needed to adjust anything .Myself and both of my sons have raced this bike in different expert class races and won .Why your bike is doing this is a hard one to figure out.As for fuel we use race gas 110 leaded
mixed 32 to 1 Must be something simple take the spark arrestor off go back to stock and test it again

ajax, we ride a lot of tight single track, therefore a lot of low rpm on /off throttle and some idling. I would imagine a lot of the terrain you guys ride in the desert is open, fast riding, with generous throttle(wide open). Might be why I notice the difference a bit more with the spark arrestor. my .02

Speaking of fiddling with the needle, what's the trick to getting the needle out of the slide to change the clip position on the TMX? I jiggered it for ten minutes and I couldn't get the the cable to disconnect from the slide.

Have you ever raced a good Dist 37 desert or AMA National desert race .Beleive me the second loop is tight .There are times when for miles i never get past 3 rd gear .I have also raced the AMA National Hare Scramble at Ryloland 3 hour race and never got past 3 most of the time first gear once again no problem I have also done some desert enduros also mostly single track .The only time i played with settings and jetings was at the Cherry creek National in Utha about 4 thousand feet going up to about 6 thousand feet.After about 1 hour of testing we went back to all stock as delevered for me that is where it ran the best .That race was also up in the trees and tight .I also rode a few 2008 CR 125s at the dealer meeting back in George last summer
in the super tight trees and was told the bike were also stock settings
I just seem to get lucky as once again for me the stock settings work great .Hope everone gets there bike dialed in for them as riding a 125 is so much fun

i can hardly get out of 1st or 2nd in a normal D22 race.

it has good power throughout but i keep it revved up top because it loves it and it wont lug my fat a$$ up steep hills otherwise.

i have a turbine core on mine, it mellowed it out in the mid and before i put in on i had a doulble hit on top that isnt there any more. no complaints on performance.

The SA makes the low end feel rich due to the resistance of the SA on the exhaust gasses. (The engine as an air pump is "fooled" by the resistance that was not there prior to the adding of the SA ..........all to do with the Stoichiometry of a 2 stroke and gasoline at the ideal air fuel ratio of 14.7:1........the SA is slowing down the exhaust going out so the engine "thinks" it is getting less air in and therefore its current fuel settings appear high to it ) You Have to lean out the pilot for sure and maybe the needle by 1 but try pilot first
Joe

I just noticed you have a CR. I still had to lean my jetting a little for the TC2 and I have a WR. The WR silencer should have more backpresure then a TC2 so I thought I had to lean it because it is able to create better flow and therefor pull more fuel through a smaller jet. I really didn't think about it too much, I just made the changes the engine wanted and was happy with the low end and midrange improvements.

I really wish we could get more takers for some of our 5th gear 5 lane highway dez races (H&H, WHS),, heh heh.
Aside from that hijack,
I hope you guys all get your machines sorted, a happy husky rider is a better husky rider.

You have to compress the spring all the way in order to create slack in the cable. Once you have slack, push the cable like you're trying to make it poke out the bottom of the slide and wiggle it a bit. It should pop out after a bit of wiggling and flexing. Then you can see how the cable fits into a slot and the ball seats into a hole in the little piece that screws into the top of the slide... I just re-read this and it makes no sense... Maybe I need to take pics.

When you compress the spring there should be a plastic collar on the bottom of the spring, it may be in the slide. That has to come up with the spring and then you should be able to get the cable unhooked from the slide and then you can take a 4mm socket and unscrew the cable holder and then you can get the needle out. Make sure the plastic collar tab goes back in the slot in the cable holder or you will not have a throttle for long ask me how I know this !!!
Bill

all good points here..I will add this

As opposed to trying to compress the spring to achieve enough slack...instead...just peel the leading edge of the spring around the cable and wind the spring off like a screw.....its way easier

Wow,...I'd never even thought of that. I've been using a pair of locking surgical hemostats that I bought at a medical supply place. I compress the spring up into the cap and then clamp the hemostats onto the cable right under the spring, and just let it hang there like that until I'm ready to go back together with it.