Fork seals cost

I just ordered a set of seals and wipers from Hall's for my 510 and they were $72

Anybody know where to get decent seals at a better price?

I'll have to send the old ones to Senergy so he can make some.

A set of seals and wipers from Honda are $25. I think I'll be putting a lot more effort into getting the SHOWA TC's on there.

http://motoplasticsus.com/

under
" * New Products *
Filters, Seals,
Wheel Bearings"

in the left nav. $47 for the Marzocchi kit (oil seals and wipers)

Good guy to deal with.

+1 0n that!

Very good guys. I'll have to get some from him, much better price.

I think Kelly sells them?

http://www.motosportz.com/HVA-SS/HVA-SS-Home.htm
(about halfway down the page)

Tommy

Oh, that's even better. I don't know why I didn't think of those sites. But, I'll have to order some up for spares if they're going to blow like that.

Yep,
That's where I got mine......

Yeah, I try to get anything I can from Kelly (haven't needed repair parts yet, but when I do...)

How many miles/hours on the seals? How old is the bike? Are you surprised that they blew when they did? (Just sounds like you're disappointed in the seal life, makes me curious.)

Tommy

I'm somewhat disappointed in the seal life, but more disappointed in the price I paid for a new set.

My bike has 32 hours on it, but I'm use to riding all year, or longer on a set of seals.

32 hours? That is pretty impressive. Hope the next set last a little longer for you (and, selfishly, I hope mine last longer).

Tommy

Mine made it 16-ish hours before the rotor side started leaking.

The seals from Kelly, which I purchased, and at a good price to be sure, are just the seals...not seal/wiper package. Just so you know.

I had almost 8000 KM on my 06' TE 250 with the original seals, and no signs of any problems when I sold it. All Balls offers an aftermarket seal for both the 45 and 50mm forks, p/n 55-130 for the 50's. I have used them in a few customers bikes with good results. Probably won't last as long as the factory seals, but at only 15 bucks a set there worth a try.

I am a rookie when it comes to changing out seals. My right one is is need of replacement. Does anyone have a good write up for this? I figured Coffee would have already taken some video of this ....but I know he has been bustin his butt!

Can someone post some good instructions. I hope this isn't hijacking...this would help a lot of newbies like me.

Opened the forks up for the seal change. This is what the guts look like.


Set screw on the cap. This is not what I thought it wa when I took the picture. It's a set to hold the rebound adjuster in place.

Hydro lock for bottoming control

Nice long bottoming cone. That's the silver part. The black thing is a spring spacer.



It was really clean in there for 32 hours of service. I've never seen a OE fork that was this clean on first oil change. They must be doing something right. I did find the bolt that holds the base valve to the base bolt was almost about to fall out! So, there was basically no damping in that leg. I'm going back to open the other one to see what it looks like.

The check plate and spring in this instance is for the rebound. This is a typical rebound set up. The stack of shims to the left side of the base valve is the compression stack. The 12mm shim toward the valve is a "free bleed" shim. It allows the face shim to stand off the valve face and not get a total seal, which allows it to bleed fluid by the face shim. Probable why it tends to dive under heavy front brake.

I took that out and did a little "shim shuffle". Basically that means is pretty much like the overall amount of damping, but I want to change the way the stack handles the flow at different shaft speeds.

I took one of the 22.1 from the stack, pulled the 14.15 out, replaced it with a 14.1 and put it between the 20.1 and 22.1 to get a two stage stack. The I took the 12.1 bleed shim and put it where the 14.15 was.

My intentions; Drop the free bleed, but not make the low speed any stiffer, by dropping one 22.1 and going to a two stage stack. Then make the high speed section a little lighter for the roots and rocks.

Will this work? I just have to test it and see how it acts. This is the first time I've bene in a set of ZOOKs.

Oh, is that what's going on in the picture?

I didn't pull the cartridge apart, but that looks like the mid valve is a check plate. That's good info, thanks. I didn't realize the MV was a check. That would have a big effect on dive. I'll test what I have then go in and swap that for a stack.

The stack on the end is the main rebound shim stack. There will be a hole in the end that the adjuster controls.