125-200cc Fork spring change

I need to install new forks springs on my 2014 CR125. This will be my first time opening forks on a dirt bike. I haven't found a definitive answer as to "they are the same/not the same as the Yamaha's SSS. Some claim they are the same, some say different, and even the review MXA did on the 2013 CR125 claimed they are not the SSS version. So I did some youtube searching and couldn't find a video on the late model cr125, so next best thing I found is a 2 part video by TBT racing where they disassemble/reassemble KYB forks. Can someone who has had the forks apart from a 2014-ish CR125 take a quick look at this link and let me know if this is what I should expect to find as far as internals.


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vrafDhaHbKc



Also, based on the part 2 video, it doesn't seem the measurement of fluid in the cartridge where the base valve assembly sits is very accurate/controlled. Is this true or should it should be an accurate measurement or is there something in the function of the fork that I'm missing that makes an inaccurate level of fluid here okay? Thanks in advance.

Your forks come apart just like the video. that is the video I used to change my fork springs on my 2014 CR125 (WB165) . From my understanding they are not SSS. I took it that he does not measure the oil in the cartridge because you fill it full with no air.

Yeah man, if there's a tiny bit of air left just bleed it out with the screw on top.

I didn't watch the vid.

They are the AOSS KYB's. Air Oil Separate System. There is a spec on the volume in the cartridge, but you want to add more than that, bleed the cartridge, and when you install the basevalve (topvalve?!!), any air and the extra oil will purge out when you do a final complete stroke of the rod with the cartridge assembled. The oil remaining inside will be perfect so in practice, they set the level themselves. The screw on top cannot be used to release air, it does not lead to the cartridge but rather the space above the pressure piston. Be VERY patient when bleeding and tap the cartridge between strokes to dislodge clingon microbubles. Sharp, short pulls on the downstroke will open the valving and allow air to escape that slow movements may not, but watch it or it will spit oil on you! It can take several minutes for bubbles to migrate to the top after the stroke, and if you stroke it again too soon, they will just bypass back to the underside of the midvalve/rebound piston, which is where you are trying to get them to leave from. So be patient!!!