Help ~ SOS.... I'm trying to remove my front axle but this husky is like nothing I've ever seen. I'm guessing My 2006 Husky 610TE front Axle Nut is seized in the axle tube. I did manage to find a few vendors offering a replacement axle nut (to loose the 12mm allen key) but so far nothing on what I'm doing wrong to remove mine... I'm about to twist the 10mm Allen in half. Yes the pinch bolts are loose on the left (Nut) side and tight on the right. I began the process loose on the right too but then was twisting the axle holder and about to break it off.
Try using an actual hardened allen key instead of the little stub from the toolkit, and also try adding a little heat with a torch, someone may have loctited it not knowing what they were doing...
Try undoing the 2 bolts on each fork end after the nut has finally loosened. it seems like it has not been taken out for a while. If too hard to move just put an old screw driver in the slot between the two bolts and talp with a rubber mallett.
Thanks, I'm sure it has never been removed. I bough the bike 2 yrs ago with 1200 miles. Now @ 3k and the stock Metz karoo is done. Axle will move / spin ok with the bolts loose. From what I gather if I can break the axle nut loose I'm golden. Going to try a heat gun and 1/2 drive Milwaukee impact in the morning. Fresh Michelin AC-10 and Moose HD tube ready to go.
Both the Zipty and the Motosportz front axle nuts are improvements over the stock Husky nut. http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/billet-front-axle-nut.31275/
I had to break out the big guns ~ Glad this didn't turn into a trail side fiasco... SK Metric allen key 12mm 1/2" drive + Milwaukee Cordless 1/2" drive impact. Soak it good with Kroil penetrating oil and then add a little heat from daughters hair dryer (heat gun was at the inlaws shop). Then a few hits from the impact and it spun loose. My bike spends too much time living outside ~ and on the kick stand the axle tube funnels water down to the nut where it pools up / soaks in / corrodes the threads. Re installed with copious amounts of Redline synthetic grease
Now to search for cracked rotor info... I'm guessing it has to do with thermal expansion and a non-floating design. Cracks proliferate from about every other hole. This one pictured is the worst. 9-cracks pictured.
I wonder if chamfering those holes would have mitigated the cracking a bit? I've chamfered quite a few rotors with a hand drill and center bit in my time, none of which have cracked. That does seem excessive, though. Have you ever gotten it really hot, then hit a creek?
[quote=" That does seem excessive, though. Have you ever gotten it really hot, then hit a creek?[/quote] Yeah this was my exact reply on the same post on ADV Rider - thermal shock can do this.
No nothing yet (No thermal shock I can think of) ~ only a few water crossings and nothing race pace / deep / cold weather. I'd think anyone playing with hare scrambles or running Mountain trails would have a greater risk of thermal shock. Caliper retracted fine / smooth / easy / currently no drag. I'll double check again for drag again later in the week.
